Member Contributer Conedodger Posted August 24, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 24, 2015 I have something weird going on. I went to start the bike yesterday and when I turned the key I got nothing. No lights, gages or clock. I was able to jump start it and it fired right up. I noticed that the clock had reset. I then shut it off and checked the battery voltage and it was 13.25. I started it again without having to jump it and checked the idle voltage. It was high at close to 15.5 When I rev it up to 5000 rpm with the high beam on the voltage is 15.5, which has been normal for my bike. It started fine this morning, but the idle voltage is still high. I rode it to work thinking it might drop after the bike was up to operating temp, but it remained close to 15.5. Am I looking at an RR replacement? I'm still stumped by the clock reset and no start yesterday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gmtech94 Posted August 24, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 24, 2015 Check battery connections for corrosion and being loose . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted August 24, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 24, 2015 Check battery connections for corrosion and being loose . +1 dead cell in the battery . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted August 24, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 24, 2015 I agree with the above. Isn't anything over 15 volts bad news? (Or at least that's the magic number that sticks in my memory as being too high.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Conedodger Posted August 24, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 24, 2015 I thought less than 15.5 was "acceptable" per the shop manual above 5K rpm with the high beam on. Mine is close to that at idle on low beam. That is what has me concerned, as it usually runs 14.6-14.8 at idle. I will have to take a look at it when I get home. If I had a dead cell I wouldn't think it would read the 13.25 with everything shut down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted August 24, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 24, 2015 With the lights off 15.5 is OK, but with the lights on 14.8 or 15 volts should be the highest voltage you see. That's according to these 2 links: http://www.bikersoracle.com/vfr/forum/showthread.php?t=76159 http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf I don't have the service manual available, but if it says 15.5 is OK you might be fine. Although, I still think that's a little high and would have the battery close to boiling off all the time, potentially resulting is a shortend battery life. And yeah, the battery at 13.25 V at rest actually sounds a little high to me. Is it also that high several hours after charging? Mine are usually somewhere between 12.7 and 13.1 V several hours after charging. (I think they should settle down to their normal/resting voltage 4 to 12 hours after a charge.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Conedodger Posted August 26, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 26, 2015 OK, found some time tonight to troubleshoot and I think I have fixed it. The connector for the regulator/rectifier had a melted/corroded terminal. I cut the connector out and spliced the 3 yellow wires back together. The idle voltage is now a steady 14.5 volts. Turn on the high beam and rev it up to 5K rpm and it stays rock solid at 14.5 volts. I think this may have been an issue for some time, as it has been running at 15.5 volts whenever I did the 5K rpm test. Only recently did the idle voltage go from mid 14 volts to 15.25 volts. I don't know if this explains my no-start/reset the other day, but my fingers are crossed. Battery checks out fine, as well as the battery connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted August 26, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 26, 2015 OK, found some time tonight to troubleshoot and I think I have fixed it. The connector for the regulator/rectifier had a melted/corroded terminal. I cut the connector out and spliced the 3 yellow wires back together. The idle voltage is now a steady 14.5 volts. Turn on the high beam and rev it up to 5K rpm and it stays rock solid at 14.5 volts. I think this may have been an issue for some time, as it has been running at 15.5 volts whenever I did the 5K rpm test. Only recently did the idle voltage go from mid 14 volts to 15.25 volts. I don't know if this explains my no-start/reset the other day, but my fingers are crossed. Battery checks out fine, as well as the battery connections. That will do it also . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Conedodger Posted September 4, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 4, 2015 Dead again. Starter relay connector is melted. I've ordered the repair kit from wiremybike.com. Guess I'll have to pull the fairings and run a thorough check on all my connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanyol Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 Dude... Your regulator is no longer regulating properly and frying components in your wiring harness... That's why the manual says >15.5 V AC w high beams = replace R/R... You may have only seen 15.5 and not above but that's good enough an indication... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Conedodger Posted September 4, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 4, 2015 Once I get it running again, I'll test the stator and R/R. After the last fix, it was controlling the output to 14.5 at 5K with the high beam on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanyol Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 Intermittent failures often go undetected if they do not occur while you happen to be testing... And these babies often go out piecemeal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gonerydin Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 These are both common Honda problems. That starter relay connector has failed or deteriorated on all 4 of mine. Twice on my 93 ST1100. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Conedodger Posted September 19, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 19, 2015 OK, rewired the starter relay connections and got it running. Stator checked out fine. Took everyone's advice and replaced the R/R. Soldered the stator connections. So far, so good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer airwalk Posted September 19, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 19, 2015 soldering stator wires to "harness' connect wires works well & I've done it before on my '95. gets to be a PIA if you want to test/measure alt though, mine are now individual secure connectors of some kind, don't recall exactly which ones I used & way too lazy to pull plastic for a look-see. something better than the original connector "block" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted September 19, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 19, 2015 When I replaced my stator I substituted yellow posi-locks for the connector. No soldering / crimping needed and easily removed. They run cool to the touch. Part of my motivation for using them was that they're easily replaced in the field. I carry 3 spares under the seat and a Leatherman. I got my stator with extra length wire so I should be able to deal with any failure. After about 4,500 miles they're still looking perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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