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1999 Vfr800 Gearbox Problems


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Hi my vfr800 after a ride when the bike is hot it will not go in to neutral and the gear change becomes very stiff if not impossible normally between first second and third mainly down shifting i park it up over night next day everything works fine i have taken it to a garage and annoyingly everything works fine i get it back and it goes again as soon as i switch the engine off it clicks into neutral no problem anyone got any ideas

thanks

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When I bought my 5 Gen the PO had put too much oil into the motor and when I was riding it home, the hotter it got the worse the transmission seemed to get. One of the first things I did when I had the opportunity was flush/fill ALL of the fluids, and make sure all the levels were within spec. On my '09 I was using the Honda GN4 10w40 but I went with the Rotella T6 in both as it is easier to just keep one oil type on hand. Both bikes shift great and I never really had an issue after that. I did try the Rotella T6 in my Duc but boy, oh boy, it did not like that one bit! Shifting was extremely clunky and it got worse as the ride went on. I have since went back to Motul for it as it runs great with that in it.

My point is what oil are you running in it? (i.e. 10w40, 20w50, etc.) When was the last oil change? Where is the oil level at?

Oh, Welcome Aboard! When you get a chance post an introductory post, preferably with a pic of your bike.

Cheers


I should probably add that this is the first place I would check as it's the simplest and cheapest but it doesn't mean that your transmission isn't the issue.

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Here's how to check your clutch for drag... your gears can't shift
smoothly if your clutch is part way engaged...

1 Place your bike on the center stand...

2 Start engine and establish a steady idle...

3 Squeeze in the clutch and hold... shift into first gear...

4 Now look at the rear wheel... if it's spinning step on the rear brake...
does this action drag down the engine rpms???

If you bike is equipped with an cable then adjust the clutch lever
knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and check again check for clutch
drag... if you bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system and check
for bubbles...

Ultimately you want the rear wheel to stop when the engine is idling
and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...

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I got the oil changed about 300 miles ago when i had some valve shims fitted i used castrol power semi synthetic 10w 40 which helped at first i am not sure if there is to much in there as i did not do it myself this time but it did have the problem before the oil change should the oil cover the whole inspection window or just between the lines

when i put it on the center stand in first gear with the clutch in the rear wheel does spin when i mentioned this to my local garage he said that is normal and would happen on a new bike is that not true ,

i will try the back brake tomorrow to see if it affects the rpm

thanks

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Check the engine oil level with the bike on the center stand and the engine off. Yes, it should be between the lines on the sight window.

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I got the oil changed about 300 miles ago when i had some valve shims fitted i used castrol power semi synthetic 10w 40 which helped at first i am not sure if there is to much in there as i did not do it myself this time but it did have the problem before the oil change should the oil cover the whole inspection window or just between the lines

when i put it on the center stand in first gear with the clutch in the rear wheel does spin when i mentioned this to my local garage he said that is normal and would happen on a new bike is that not true ,

i will try the back brake tomorrow to see if it affects the rpm

thanks

Sounds like you need to bleed the clutch line like BLS mentioned. I should have also stated in my post, that not only was the oil level way out of spec, all the hydraulic fluid reservoirs looked like they were filled with coffee! Needless to say, the flush/fill was necessary IMO. It's amazing how much different a bike runs and feels when the engine and other fluids are fresh and within spec!

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I just changed my oil recently to castrol power and my gearbox is very smooth and slick,Its not unheard of 5th gens having occasional gearbox problems,it'll be much easier and cheaper to get another engine,whats the mileage?

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I just changed my oil recently to castrol power and my gearbox is very smooth and slick,Its not unheard of 5th gens having occasional gearbox problems,it'll be much easier and cheaper to get another engine,whats the mileage?

thats a baby - bathwater kinda reaction isnt it?

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I just changed my oil recently to castrol power and my gearbox is very smooth and slick,Its not unheard of 5th gens having occasional gearbox problems,it'll be much easier and cheaper to get another engine,whats the mileage?

thats a baby - bathwater kinda reaction isnt it?

Well i meant it as a worst case scenario..after all the other advice had been taken..i'll await to see what the op finds out! Hopefully a cheap fix.

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You did not say what happened to the rpm's when you put the bike in first gear with the clutch in and put on the brake. Did the braking cause the rpm's to drop? If they did not, that implies things are okay. (?)

(edit 6/25/15) I just did this on my '01. When I pulled in the clutch and put it in gear, the back tire started to spin. I put on the rear brake and the tire stopped, but the engine rpm's did not drop. When I released the brake, clutch still held in, and still in first gear, the tire continued to stay still (stopped). That would mean all is well, right BLS?

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