forkvalves Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 I'm in the midst of rebuilding my forks. Upon disassembly of the cartridge, I discovered this. I'm guessing it's from the forks bottoming out. Does anyone have any damper rods laying around they no longer want? Happy to purchase them, of course. Honda does not sell this part separately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted January 22, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 22, 2015 Check with Jamie Duagherty, he might have something, worse case you buy an upgraded set from him... www.daughertymotorsports.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted January 22, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 22, 2015 That's not from bottoming out. The nut is put on, and then the end is peened over the nut. This happens when you don't grind away the top of the rod to remove the material peened over. Had a little on the F3 forks after I didn't grind enough away my first time having to do it. You should still have plenty of thread left. I would use a grinder or cut-off wheel to remove that bit up until the threads aren't damaged. It's pretty thin over there, so if you try to just bend or pull it off, it will just tear more down the threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 That little bit will come off with a file and a touch of emery paper. Plenty of thread left, as Yoshi said. No need for new parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forkvalves Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 That's not from bottoming out. The nut is put on, and then the end is peened over the nut. This happens when you don't grind away the top of the rod to remove the material peened over. Had a little on the F3 forks after I didn't grind enough away my first time having to do it. You should still have plenty of thread left. I would use a grinder or cut-off wheel to remove that bit up until the threads aren't damaged. It's pretty thin over there, so if you try to just bend or pull it off, it will just tear more down the threads. Thanks. Is this in lieu of loc-tite? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 When you reassembled, you'll need to use red Loctite to make up for the missing peened end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted February 2, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted February 2, 2015 That's not from bottoming out. The nut is put on, and then the end is peened over the nut. This happens when you don't grind away the top of the rod to remove the material peened over. Had a little on the F3 forks after I didn't grind enough away my first time having to do it. You should still have plenty of thread left. I would use a grinder or cut-off wheel to remove that bit up until the threads aren't damaged. It's pretty thin over there, so if you try to just bend or pull it off, it will just tear more down the threads. Thanks. Is this in lieu of loc-tite? The previous posters have given great replies. Showa/Honda don't use Loctite when they assemble the cartridges, they peen over the threads, as the cartridge is considered non-serviceable (hence you can't buy a replacement part). However to disassemble the cartridge the peening needs to be removed, usually just by filing it off. You might need to dress the threads a little to make it easy to get the nut back on, or use a die. When you come to reassemble the damper rod, use just a touch of Loctite (Loctite 242 blue medium strength is recommended by RaceTech) so the nut doesn't back off in use. Not too much though as you don't want to glue the shims together, I just put a drop on and then lightly wipe off the excess. And don't over-tighten the nut, apparently the thread strips easily, I just snug it up tight with a short spanner. Racetech suggests 2.5ft-lbs torque only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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