How Do I Change My Fork Oil?

[Lint]

I did a search, but I didn't find anything, the results were pretty generic. So, who has a how to? My bike has 26K miles on it and I've never changed it. I bought it two years ago with 6600 on it, so I'd bet it's more than time. The forks seem pretty soft.

Also, wouldn't going up a couple of notches increase damping on my bike? I'm down 19 lbs so far in weight, but I still have more to go. Figure all geared up, I am about 280ish lbs, 20 of which is my very heavy gear. Gotta get some new kit.

Thanks!

[Cogswell]

This was a recent post here - a very good how-to video. It covers seal replacement and not just pouring out old oil and adding new. For me it's worth the bit of extra time to disassemble, inspect and clean everything so when you re-assemble it's all fresh. Granted not a 6th gen, but it will give you the idea.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/79226-new-video-fork-seal-removal-and-replacement/#entry967872

[klrtovfr]

If you are going to be removing the forks I would get new seals and dust seals. I changed mine at 38,000 for the first time . Wasnt too difficult just lay everything out in order as you pull it out of the forks. It goes much smoother if you have a friend helping out or a big vice with rags to hold the forks.

[spud786]

This was a recent post here - a very good how-to video. It covers seal replacement and not just pouring out old oil and adding new. For me it's worth the bit of extra time to disassemble, inspect and clean everything so when you re-assemble it's all fresh. Granted not a 6th gen, but it will give you the idea.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/79226-new-video-fork-seal-removal-and-replacement/#entry967872

6th gen forks are different, they are cartridge forks . But you can get some general use of that video for general knowledge.

On a side note, as long as you don't disturb seals (separating the fork), changing oil is pretty straight forward, other than separating the cap from the damper rod, which that vid doesn't show cause it a different fork. You don't have to do a complete tear down to change fork oil, although some view it like an oil change, change oil and you have to change the filter too.

pumping the damper rod is a necessary function to rid air and settle oil height for measurement, a cap of oil can mean the difference between a fork that works and one that doesn't with cartridge forks. That's why just adding a volume of oil, is not very accurate, no wonder people cant get their vfr forks to work, it has to me measured in the fork mm's.

[Baileyrock]

It's not as good as a complete disassembly, but would still be a major improvement over the old fork oil so look at:
30min Oil Fork change, on bike in the Miant. How too section.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/55878-30-min-fork-oil-change-on-bike/

BR

[rigger4343]

How often are you guys changing the fork oil? I was thinking of doing the same thing to mine when it gets a little to cool to ride. I have no issues with mine but she does have 18,000 miles on her. Is that to soon to worry about it?

I was thinking or if I do mine, while I have it all down, might as well do seals and maybe bushings and such too.

[spud786]

Id change them twice in the first 30,000 miles, and then they'll run fairly clean after that extending to higher ranges, really the first oil change is the most important, people go way to long on that one, and then complain how bad the stock oil is, but OEM oil is actually pretty good, from kayaba to showa.

Fork seal life on my vfr has been excellent, so they've seen about 4 oil changes in 110,000 miles, I don't intend to replace the oil again till I blow a seal, probably have 40,000+ on present oil.

Luckily the 6th gen is right side up forks, much longer lasting seals than upside down, amoral also aides with keeping seals an dust covers from hardening over time.

[Guest]

I did gold valves, sonic springs, and 5w oil when I changed mine. Left the oil at stock height.

This was at 17,000 miles. I did clean the dust seals out and do the "film strip" clean on my oil seals... everything looked brand new. Not even a speck of rust on the circlip.

If you're JUST doing an oil change, I recommend bumping the weight up to 10w. Or at least buy a bottle of 5W and a bottle of 10W and mix them so you're at 7.5W. Stick with the stock volume of oil as well.

[Lint]

How do I measure the oil volume? I watched the video linked above, but no oil was added. Do I measure before I add, as in ounces and or milliliters or is it based on a certain height once it is poured into the fork leg?

[Guest]

So, once you take the forks off, take the caps off, unscrew the cap from the cartridge and drain the oil, you'll have an empty shock body, with the internal cartridge held in place by the lower bolt (in the axle hole).

My recommendation, remove that bolt and remove the cartridge ENTIRELY. (it's all one piece, you won't lose anything.)

Drain the cartridge by pumping the inner rod up and down until there is zero resistance.

Feel free at this point to run a little kerosene over the parts to clean them and get any muck out of the bottom of your fork legs.

WHEN REFILLING:

You want JUST the cartridge installed into the fork leg. That's it... no spring, no spacers, nothing else.

Stand the fork leg upright completely compressed.

Add fluid slowly while pumping the cartridge rod up and down until you no longer get that "squish" sound... (this means all the air is out of the cartridge)

With the fork still compressed, you measure your fork oil level from the top of the fork tube, to the level of the oil. Get a paint stirrer or a dowel, mark off the appropriate measurement, and then simply add fluid until it just touches the tip. If you go too much, just dump a little back into your bottle.

I believe the stock height is 100 - 110mm... but truthfully, a .750mL bottle of BelRay will fill both fork legs perfectly. I didn't have to open my second bottle when I did mine.

Once your fork legs are filled, and you've got all of the air out of the cartridge... pop your spring, spacer, and washers back in, screw on your cap, raise up your fork leg and be careful not to cross thread the fine threads going from the cap to the fork.

Once the forks are off the bike it's about an hour or so job.

[Lint]

Thanks Danny!

[spud786]

stock oil height on 6th gen is 100 mm, after filling and pumping you measure the air gap from top of the tube (to the oil) with no spring in, to set oil height, the range of adjustment is 90 mm to 110 mm. if stock is soft for you, 95mm may be a better option. SS8 is a pretty heavy oil, don't bet another brand ten weight will be the same. I know maxima's ten weight is definitely lighter than ss8 and the fork action is different as a result.

The only accurate way is to actually measure the oil height, do by volume is very crude, and very easy to be 5 mm low in one leg and 5 mm high in the other, or combination of all the above or worse.

[Guest]

stock oil height on 6th gen is 100 mm, after filling and pumping you measure the air gap from top of the tube (to the oil) with no spring in, to set oil height, the range of adjustment is 90 mm to 110 mm. if stock is soft for you, 95mm may be a better option. SS8 is a pretty heavy oil, don't bet another brand ten weight will be the same. I know maxima's ten weight is definitely lighter than ss8 and the fork action is different as a result.

The only accurate way is to actually measure the oil height, do by volume is very crude, and very easy to be 5 mm low in one leg and 5 mm high in the other, or combination of all the above or worse.

That makes more sense... previous post edited.