Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted September 11, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 Just seems so weird you would have an issue with the temp sensor after just being in there. Do you think maybe you knocked something loose, stretched/cut a wire or something like that? Sucks you may have to take the TB off again........I guess if there is anything else down there you haven't replaced (hoses, o rings) may want to just do that this time since its such a chore to get in there.I doubled checked those connections in there before putting the TB on. It is a small 4 connector harness for the oil pressure sending unit, temp sensor, and nuetral safety switch and then all of that connects to the main harness. The harness I replaced it with is from a 1998 model and looks identical.Bike was running fine without any electrical issues before I tore it apart. :( I have replaced hoses and t-stat while I was in there. Is there an elecrical test you can do to check the temp sensor? This is just not fair. :( Bad luck Jeff. The temp sender is screwed in to the back of the front head left cylinder under that darned throttle body. I think you've got an electrical fault with the temp sensor wires as I doubt the engine could get that hot that quick. At 2k warm up I reckon it takes my VFR 2 minutes to get to 120F. The FI system uses the temp measure to adjust fuelling so a screwy temp will mess with fueling. The fan uses its own switch on the left radiator and is not dependent on the coolant temp sensor. We are on the same with this. The doofus I am should have tested the harness before putting it on. Maybe a broken tab in the sensor. Are we allowed to curse on here? :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted September 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 Here you go, hope it helps, best of luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted September 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 As I read the instructions, it says the resistance of the sensor drops as temperature increases. If you have a short in the wires going to the sensor the resistance would drop and display an artificially high temp like you are seeing, so I'd suggest your harness is more likely the problem, rather than the sensor. Maybe a pinched wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted September 11, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 Would this also play into the high idle? Gentlemen, thank you for the support and input. More input is welcome, welcome, welcome. It's gonna be a late night...sigh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted September 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 I'm not sure about why you'd get a high idle. That should only be controlled by the wax unit which is moving the starter valves, which admit air to the engine when the throttle is closed. The wax unit should close the starter valves when the temperature is at a normal operating level. The manual states that "The volume of fuel injected is compensated according to the coolant temperature" and I assume it adds less fuel when hot (or in your case, "thinks" it is hot...) so would run lean, but I don't think that would change the idle. Are we allowed to curse on here? :) Yes, apparently they are called "Garage Words". Keep your chin up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted September 12, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2014 It was the temp sensor connector. I should have taken a closer look at it. Geez, surely I couldn't have done that. So I just taped up the wires on the orignal harness and used it. Seems to rev better before I took it apart. :-) I'm thinking the isolater boots were leaking before hand. I had to back the starter valves out to get the idle back down. It was idling at 3000 rpm. Maybe I shouldn't have done that. I hadn't touched anything on the wax unit. I will resync them tomorrow . Samsung Droid Charge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
signal Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 just curious, what makes you think the boots were leaking (symptoms)? I am guessing your saying its running much better now, I wonder if that had to do with the starter valve sync more than boot replacement. Did the boots show any evidence of leaking? Were the insulator bands good and snug on them? When you attached them, did you gap them to the specified gap in the service manual (insulator bands)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 12, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2014 Get some sleep Jeff . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted September 12, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2014 just curious, what makes you think the boots were leaking (symptoms)? I am guessing your saying its running much better now, I wonder if that had to do with the starter valve sync more than boot replacement. Did the boots show any evidence of leaking? Were the insulator bands good and snug on them? When you attached them, did you gap them to the specified gap in the service manual (insulator bands)?I could be wrong just a guessing. Someone has had the TB off before, the bands were loose and two of screws for the bands are not OE. I have not made any adjustments to to the wax unit or starter valves while having I apart. It's odd that it was idling a 3000 rpm's after putting it back together. There was a build up "soot" on the butterfly valves and along the insides of TB bores. Would this indicate it's been running a little rich for sometime? Either a previous owner incorrectly adjusted the wax unit or the starter valves or both. Since I've owned this bike it has ran well but I've also felt something was not quite right. I may have to adjust the wax unit the next time I start it up and synch the starter valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted September 13, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 13, 2014 Still haven't got this right yet. Took it apart to check the wax unit. Wax unit is okay. So put back together and ran it but it took a long time for it to slooowly reach normal idle. On the wax unit...does it matter how the coolant hoses connect to it? Standing on the left side of bike facing the wax unit, the hose coming off the engine block is connected to the right side nipple on the wax unit and the hose coming off the t-stat is connected to left side nipple. Is this correct? Does it matter? I can't synch the starter valves until this is working like it's suppose to . Jeffrey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
signal Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 is the starter rod or whatever its called, that thin metal rod that connects to the wax unit, bent? Its easy to bend those things screwing with the vacuum hoses and all that. Also if memory serves me right the wax unit has white paint on its adjuster screws, not sure if you can mess with those or if you do how to know its "correct". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted September 14, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 14, 2014 is the starter rod or whatever its called, that thin metal rod that connects to the wax unit, bent? Its easy to bend those things screwing with the vacuum hoses and all that. Also if memory serves me right the wax unit has white paint on its adjuster screws, not sure if you can mess with those or if you do how to know its "correct". Nope nothing bent but it's obvious someone has messed with it.(no paint) Weird that it would function normally and now operate very slowly. I have checked the "acuator" for the starter valves(what the rod attaches to) and it moves freely no fuel lines or hoses obstructing it I have read comments about them not working correctly after a coolant change.(searching Google) I will order a rebuild kit for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
signal Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 i have heard about people getting hydro lock near the wax unit, basically an air bubble in the system that can be difficult to remove, i wonder if that could be the case Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted September 15, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 15, 2014 Will the bike run with the airbox removed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Misspent Youth Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Will the bike run with the airbox removed? It will run, but if the sensors on the airbox are disconnected when the engine is run, it will set FI codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted September 15, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 15, 2014 Shutting the bike off and then reconnecting the air box and then restarting the bike will clear that, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 15, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 15, 2014 Yes ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted September 15, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 15, 2014 Yes !Thanks David. I did not get much sleep that night by the way. Now I've noticed what feels like oil and smells like gas under it. This sucks and all because of a mouse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 15, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 15, 2014 Sorry to hear that . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted September 15, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 15, 2014 lol me too David me too. I can see a wet hose that drops down along the front of the engine. It connects near the bottom on the front of the engine. ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 15, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 15, 2014 Radiator hose ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted September 15, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 15, 2014 Radiator hose ?Umm, I'll post a pic of it maybe late tonight....HA!! Imagine that....late. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted September 15, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 15, 2014 Is it the fuel tank air vent? It terminates in a loop of metal at the left side of the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted September 15, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 15, 2014 Is it the fuel tank air vent? It terminates in a loop of metal at the left side of the enginethat may be it. The leak is seeping down the side of that. From where I do not know yet.It will be lt later tonight before I can take a look and post pic. Bowling night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 15, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 15, 2014 It would smell like gas if that the one . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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