Anyone Use The Datel Dmr20-10-Dcm-R-C Voltage Meter?

[Corey]

I looking at getting the Datel DMR20-10-DCM-R-C Voltage Meter. I was wondering if anyone currently uses it or did use it but doesn't now for whatever reason. Also, if you do have it is installed, how did you go about cutting the hole for it.

Thanks.

http://www.datelmeters.com/cgi-bin/webshop.cgi?config=ent-rounddc

[TNRabbit]

There's an entire thread on this: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/70384-post-your-voltmeter-mount-pics/

Here's what I did with mine (different brand but you get the idea):

Hid it behind the left handlebar so I don't have to see it when driving down the road. Peeking over the handlebar reveals the info. In retrospect, I wish I'd made it a direct view from from riding position....

It's connected directly to the battery for now...plan to install a switch later. Used a Dremel tool & utility knife to cut/shape the install hole.

pics:

[zoomzoom]

Like TNRabbit, I too have a Datel meter and used a sharp exacto knife to cut the hole in the gauge surround plastic.

Be sure to measure where you want to place the gauge so that it is readily visible when and where you wish to look and play close attention to not get to close to the outer edge as the fairing cuts in under the edge of the black plastic. You need to make sure that you can re-attach the instrument bezel plastic without the gauge or the locking ring coming in contact with the inner side of the upper cowl piece. Also be wary of any wiring that might run under the edge of the bezel. For instance the 5th gen bikes have a main wiring harness loom running down the left side of the gauge cluster just under the left side of the bezel. Cutting into the main harness by accident would be very bad indeed.

As for cutting the hole, unless you have a hole saw that big I might suggest using the locking ring that screws on to the back of the gauge to scribe a circle on the bezel where you plan to mount the gauge. Check afterwards to make sure that the scribed hole is big enough and then using an awl, make a few deep impressions in the plastic and then use a 1/8" drill bit to make some holes in the bezel. From the looks of the drawing on the Datel page the circle for the cutout needs to be about 31mm in diameter, but check first. Using an exacto knife (the kind that looks like a pencil with a triangular shaped blade that is dull on one edge and sharpened on the other) slowly and carefully push the blade down into one of the drilled holes. Once you have succeeded in cutting from one hole to the next, pull the blade back out and then insert in the next hole and cut back toward the first hole the same way. Keep going around the outer diameter of the hole this way until finished. Since the blade has one sharp and one dull edge the flat dull edge will slide down against the 1/8" pilot hole and the sharp edge will cut toward the next hole. The more holes you drill around the edge of the circle for the gauge, the more circular the hole will be in the end. The nice thing about this method is it prevents you from accidentally slipping and cutting the bezel to far or accidentally slicing off your finger. Before you drill the holes just make sure the circle scribed on the bezel is the right diameter and then drill the holes so that the outside edge of the pilot holes just touches the mark you scribed. You can always trim a bit bigger if you need to but it is really hard to make the hole smaller (if ya know what I mean).

If you have the gauge bezel off when you do this (I left mine in place) you should be able to make a nice clean hole, and the bezel won't move around too much while you push the knife into the plastic.

You could also use a dremmel (rotary tool) with a spin saw blade (looks like a drill bit almost) to cut the hole but be careful not to let the spin saw blade get away from you as they can be hard to control IMHO. A friend and I were trying to make a hole in the galley of our sailboat for a battery gauge and we used the method I described above, but instead of a knife we drilled the pilot holes slightly bigger than the spin saw blade for our dremmel tool and then we used the spin saw to cut from hole to hole. Worked like a charm.

[Veefer800Canuck]

or, if you do a lot of night riding, position the gauge so that it's blocked by the handlebar and your hand, so you don't get glare off the gauge, and a quick shift of your head will allow you to read it easily.

Your call..........

[JimGregory]

I have about 6 bucks and almost no installation time into this one. Gets the job done with no bike alterations.

But to the original question. No I havent used the datel. If I were to spend more money I would go for LCD with backlight for night. These led ones are not great in daytime sun.

[Corey]

... If I were to spend more money I would go for LCD with backlight for night. These led ones are not great in daytime sun.

Could you point me to the available LCD with backlight varieties? My Information Super Highway search didn't produce much. Thanks.

[JimGregory]

... If I were to spend more money I would go for LCD with backlight for night. These led ones are not great in daytime sun.

Could you point me to the available LCD with backlight varieties? My Information Super Highway search didn't produce much. Thanks.

Actually no I can not. Maybe they don't exist. I couldnt find one reasonably priced in a 10 minute search anyway. I can tell you I have NO problem reading mine at night. It's like a night lite for the garage so the bikes dont have bad dreams!

[MarantzManiac]

It's analog (not LCD) from Honda's marine division... obviously waterproof... breeze to install... and looks factory... all for $30 from Boats.net delivered...

37453-ZW5-000ZA BK VOLT METER, V3 (American Honda)

[FJ12Ryder]

I couldn't find a backlit LCD but tried just a regular one, but also couldn't fine one that was waterproof. And the non-waterproof lasted exactly one wash.

[Cogswell]

I'm using one on my 6th gen. I used a project box I bought from a vendor on Amazon and mounted it under the dash, so no cutting on anything. I've checked against other shop volt meters and it's very accurate. I do find though that since the reading bounces around that I end up obsessing about every change in reading - is it 14.5, 14.1 or 13.9? , etc. I really am digging that Honda analog gauge above - that really looks nice. Except for everything going digital, if I didn't know differently I might mistake it for a factory installation (well done!) Since it's analog, the reading probably averages out and tells you what you really need to know - are things OK or not? I do like having a meter since it shows trends - right now I get 14.6 when the motor's cold, which then drops (and fluctuates) to the high 14's (or maybe 13.9) when things warm up. IMO however you mount it it's worth doing.