Guest vfjayr Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Question for those that have replaced teh shock on thier 6th Gen - do you really have to remove the rear cowl and exhaust pipes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted July 8, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 8, 2014 No .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Good - I didn't want to reinvent the wheel so to speak.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marriedman Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Have to? No. Will it make it easier in the long run? Yep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Wellll OK..... I get that now. Next Question: whether or not you have removed the rear cowl and exhasut pipes - How do you actually get the stupid shock out of there? I am at an impasse - Lower bolt removed, upper bolt removed and next step according to the manual - "remove shock"..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted July 8, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 8, 2014 My recollection was that you kind of have to move the swing arm up and down, not in a rapid fashion, but to allow the shock to be at a particular angle. I also recall removing the dog bone and triangle completely to get that little extra room needed to remove the shock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Yes to Duc's post, pull the rear wheel and jack up the SSSA to almost full compression and that actually opens up the area the shock needs to go through. No exhaust or cowl removal. BR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted July 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 9, 2014 I found it easier (last week) to remove the swing arm pivot bolt...YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer digitallyhip Posted July 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 9, 2014 Having a floor jack under the swingarm really helped me to slowly and easily get the SSA to the right height. I definitely left the exhaust and rear cowl alone. But the preload adjuster for the shock (mine has ABS) was a HUGE pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted July 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 9, 2014 +1 on the preload adjuster. Then after separating it you have the pain of re-filling the hydraulic fluid and getting the air out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 I am again grateful to the members of VFRD for the depth and breadth of knowledge. I completed the swap of the shock this afternoon with only 1 additional run to the hardware store. Additional steps if you do not remove the rear cowl and exhaust (ala baileyrock and Duc2v4): If I do it again in the near future - Remove rear wheel - remove upper shock bolt - remove lower shock bolt - jack up swingarm - almost all the way up - remove dogbone top bolt - remove dogbone - remove shock - replace shock - reinstall upper shock bolt - loosely - reinstall dogbone - reinstall lower shock bolt - lower swingarm to align top dogbone bolt - almost all the way down - tighten up all bolts - replace rear wheel - reinstall all misc bits... Only tools I used were pretty much 14mm Combo wrench 17mm combo wrench 14mm Socket 17mm Deep Socket 5mm Hex head (i think maybe 6mm) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.