Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 21, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 21, 2014 I have a set of Wilbers springs in the front, they measured the same length as oem + spacer.I took out the spring of the f3 tube (i intend to put the f3s on my redslut)The spacers are identical 10cm, but the f3 spring is shorter. 31,8 cm versus 4th gens 34cm.So if I put in the Wilbers, it will be "preloaded" 2,2cm.Bad idea?No problem?F3 lower , oem topBought the f3 forks used so no idea how old the oil is. Have fresh oil, but do i flush the forks 1st?If so, with kerosine? *edit* I used what is called "washing gasoline" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted April 21, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 21, 2014 Leon, Where is the preload adjuster on your VFR with the Wilbers springs and 10cm preload spacer? In my experience 2.2 additional cm may be no problem but you would have to install the forks, check your rider sag and compare it to where the static (no rider) sag is to determine if your would top out prematurely. If so I would utilize the Wilbers springs by cutting the preload spacer 2 cm or so (provided you know the straight spring rate of both sets of springs and the Wilbers is the correct rate for you and the bike). You are using the F3 internals for better adjustability, no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 21, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 21, 2014 the Wilbers spring came (yeeeeears ago) w/o a spacer. since then (I had specified my weight to Wilbers), I gained some 5kilo /10 pounds. Seb already told me to get 22cSt oil and have 100mm air gap (on the f3) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 22, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2014 Leon, Where is the preload adjuster on your VFR with the Wilbers springs and 10cm preload spacer? -there is no 10cm spacer with the Wilbers springs. The preload adjustors are all the way out. In my experience 2.2 additional cm may be no problem but you would have to install the forks, check your rider sag and compare it to where the static (no rider) sag is to determine if your would top out prematurely. I will measure the sag as it is now If so I would utilize the Wilbers springs by cutting the preload spacer 2 cm or so (provided you know the straight spring rate of both sets of springs and the Wilbers is the correct rate for you and the bike). I donot know the spring rates of either, so I might get a one kg weight and measure how much they compress? Bought the Wilbers front and rear suspension quoting my bike model and my weight. Unsure if Wilbers did a quality job on selecting the front springs; they messed up building/setting up the rear shock (as they did Douglasthecook's)........ You are using the F3 internals for better adjustability, no? yes, I picked them up cheap (incl axle) so might as well give it a shot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted April 22, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2014 No front fork brace ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 22, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2014 No front brace, only looking for sound advise! Banking on it!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 The difference between the Wilbers progressive spring and OE is at what suspension travel it "progresses" to the higher spring rate and also the Wilbers will be more progressive (higher secondary spring rate). You'll find some numbers here. The OE F3i spring is somewhere between the OE third gen spring and the Wilbers springs that came in my kit (with a 21kg spring on the rear). If your rear spring is 21Kg or less, you'll be fine installing the F3i fork springs. The Wilbers will be very hard to install without damaging the threads of the top cap and you very likely end up with a little too much preload. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted April 22, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2014 No front brace, only looking for sound advise! Banking on it!!! The difference between the Wilbers progressive spring and OE is at what suspension travel it "progresses" to the higher spring rate and also the Wilbers will be more progressive (higher secondary spring rate). You'll find some numbers here. The OE F3i spring is somewhere between the OE third gen spring and the Wilbers springs that came in my kit (with a 21kg spring on the rear). If your rear spring is 21Kg or less, you'll be fine installing the F3i fork springs. The Wilbers will be very hard to install without damaging the threads of the top cap and you very likely end up with a little too much preload. Done ^^^^^ ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 23, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2014 Ok, next question Unscrewed the cap, pulled the cap (#16 in picture) +rod (#13) up, and unscrewed the cap from the rod assembly. So the bit with the rebound screw stayed on/inside. I could now lift out the spacer, spring etc. That was for leg #1. Leg # however, they was NO way the top cap of the rod assembly (using a 14 wrench under and 24? on top). So I simply pulled cap+rod out like this So I think I should not have bothered taking the cap off completely? Flushed the lot with gasoline. When filling with fresh oil (after come back from Scotland) to 100mm air gap, I keep the spring, spacer, rings out. But do I also keep the damper rods out? (I reassembled them for now w/o oil) Cheers guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 So I simply pulled cap+rod out like thisYes, no problems there. I never remove the needle from the top cap adjuster. When filling with fresh oil (after come back from Scotland) to 100mm air gap, I keep the spring, spacer, rings out. But do I also keep the damper rods out? (I reassembled them for now w/o oil) No, otherwise the oil will just get out from the other (bottom) side. With al the other stuff removed push the lower leg up intill the fork bottoms out. Fill with oil to the desired level, Pump the damper rod few time ( I always attach a piece of string to the top of the rods otherwise the may be hard to reach) to get rid of air bubble and measure oil level again. Add some more oil when needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 23, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2014 bedankt!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted May 31, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 31, 2014 WTB CBR600F3 front fork caps, (the top part with the preload and rebound setters). On installing the forks, I noticed that the copper colored screw for the round on on leg was farked. Never noticed when I bought them.... no way of getting a screwdriver/impact driver to grip. So if you have one spare, please PM. There is a mule coming over the pond this summer so if yuo are USA based you'd not have to ship it across the pond. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted June 2, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 2, 2014 With the bumping over for the Veefalo, let me BUMP this post Looking for one/a set in good nick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted June 2, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 2, 2014 Leon, Have you checked Ron Ayers or Mason City to see what a new one would cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted June 2, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 2, 2014 In this parts drawing http://www.servicehonda.com/parts/lookup#/Honda/CBR600F3_A_(97)_MOTORCYCLE%2c_JPN%2c_VIN%23_JH2PC250-VM600001/FRONT_FORK/CBR600F3-97-JPN-A/2Y14MALVMAL4F0800A do you need item number 15? It lists for $33.17 if so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted June 3, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 3, 2014 Hi CC, no it is #12 cos the brass screw on top is farked... $170 or so.... :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmythecop Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 I think I was just called a mule. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted June 3, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 3, 2014 You've been called worse no? Although calling a Moroccan "hmar" will get you in serious trouble.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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