Member Contributer rangemaster Posted February 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 28, 2014 Bike was running great, been a couple of years since I had the carbs off. Tuesday, trying to go to work fouled a plug so I figured time to pull the carbs an clean the idle jet. Idle jets all clear. Hmmm. Noticed the arm between the floats themselves on the carb to the fouled cylinder is cracked in two places. See my WTB in the classifieds. What's really bad is the weather here has been fantastic. Rats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted February 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 28, 2014 if the floating part itself is not cracked. then plastic weld that crack and go riding. !! have a pal hold the part. on a bench and use a soldering iron to carefully press and melt 1/2 way down the crack. the let it cool. now use the tip to reheat and scoop the melted plastic back in place. do other side. or.. go riding. PS the plastic Q tip make a perfect filler material if your not graet at working with a soldering iron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted February 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 28, 2014 I broke the support arm for the float on my Yamaha many years ago. I used JB Weld and held the support arm in alignment with the float hinge. I let it set a day or so and had no issues. After about 3 years I disassembled the carb to replace that carb. The JB Weld was still holding up after 3 years exposed to gasoline. I was amazed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted February 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 28, 2014 I broke the support arm for the float on my Yamaha many years ago. I used JB Weld and held the support arm in alignment with the float hinge. I let it set a day or so and had no issues. After about 3 years I disassembled the carb to replace that carb. The JB Weld was still holding up after 3 years exposed to gasoline. I was amazed. i admit the jb weld does work. but your changing the weight of the float. but riding is better than NOT!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer rangemaster Posted February 28, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 28, 2014 LOL, It's sitting on the kitchen counter already JBd. Thank you for confirming JB Weld would work. I'm guessing all the rubber and plastic bits on my almost 20 year old bike are now officially starting to degrade. How else does a float arm break? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted February 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 28, 2014 No, it wasn't on the float part, just the support posts that the float hinge pin goes through. Mine broke cause I hit with a hammer. It was supposed to be a light tap to push out the hinge pin, but it turned in to a real "Aw $hit" moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 I once found a broken float post on a set of oil-cooled GSXR carbs. The post was too far gone and I was under pressure to deliver the bike, so I used a soda drinking straw as a mold, fixtured it in place over the broken post base after cleaning it well, and "cast" a new post with JB Weld. Drilled it for the hinge pin and away it went. I let the owner know about it and when I saw the bike again 2 years later it was still going strong... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer rangemaster Posted March 1, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2014 Yeah, I thought about the weight, but it's so close to the hinge pin (fulcrum) that it won't make a difference. (I hope) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.