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Why I hate Arizona


Guest daemontrym

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Guest daemontrym

Arizona has emissions for motorcycles which consists of 2 idle tests and holding the throttle at 2500rpm for 30 seconds. My bike failed hydro carbons again after giving it a tune up with oem plugs, hi flo filtro OEM style paper filter, and putting on the stock exhaust. The bike itself runs great, but hydro carbon failure means its running rich still. My first time I had a UNI filter and freer flowing exhaust which I though orginally caused it to fail.

I don't know where to start, when I pulled the plugs they had a dark tan color which looked normal to me. I think the carbs might be in order for a rebuild or I have a weak coil, I am literally pulling straws here.

Bike has 29,990 miles on it which is all stock besides delkevic mini 8" exhaust(passed emissions last year with this muffler). Bike does not seem to be running different and fuel consumption has been the same since I bought it in 2008(42-45mpg).

Is there anyway to test the ignition system for a weak coil?

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I hate AZ sometimes as well having lived here since 1986 for quite a few other reasons ;S although I do think MC emissions testing are a joke...

What were your carbon monoxide readings? generally high carbon monoxide is rich and high hydro is lean condition cause by ignition, vacum leak or something else causing unburnt fuel to get to the exhaust.

Here is what I would do in this order, I don't know your skill level so do not take offense if this sounds elementary:

1/ Check for vaccum leak with carb cleaner (spray all around obvious vacum line areas and see if engine idles faster)

If yes, fix the vacum leak and move to 2

if no, move to 2

2/ Change sparkplugs to hotter burning plugs and ensure they are gapped properly

3/ purchase 99% rubbing alcohol and add 1/2 of a bottle (1 cupish) to the highest octane fuel (91) and make sure you do this after you run through the tank you have now if you bought the 87 octane fuel, non E10.

**Also check your station and see if you getting E10 fuel (ethanol) already, most of the Circle K's are E10, with the Shells and few others in the valley not running full E10, usually a lower ethanol % blend. If you are using E10 or can fill a full tank of 91 octane, no need to add the 1 cup of rubbing alcohol.

4/ Make sure your bike it nice and hot when you go to retest, should not be a problem here now with 110 degree temps!!

5/ Right before the test bring your idle speed up to 1500, you can always reset to your normal after you pass.

If after doing this you still cannot pass you probably have a weak ignition, then you should replace coil(s), but the above is cheap and has worked for me and several friends with a variety of bikes over the years.

If you are in the east valley and need a hand I would be happy to swing by or you can drop into my place, I am in Gilbert. Just PM me.

Good Luck!

+eb0

"plus"ebo

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This is how the sheet reads..

Hydro Carbons 1st idle reading: 2241 precondition reading is: 491 final condition reading is: 2152

Carbon Monoxide 1st idle reading: .33 precondition standard is 5.00 final reading is .28

I don't live far away, I live in San Tan Valley..

Before this last trip I replaced the air filter (Hi pro Filtro OEM style), plugs (NGK CR9EH-9), and put the stock exhaust back on.

When pulling the plugs they were bordline normal/rich, but to me they don't look out of the ordinary.

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  1. a "hotter "plug does not make a hotter spark.

What is Heat Range?

Heat range is the speed at which a spark plug can transfer heat from the firing tip to the cylinder head water jacket and into the cooling system. Choosing the right heat range is crucial for high performance engines. If the heat range is too cold, the spark plug will be unable to properly self-clean by burning off carbon deposits. If it the heat range is too hot, your engine could experience detonation, pre-ignition, or power loss. Most spark plug manufacturers recommend that the tip temperature remain between 500-850 degrees Celsius.

thats from " summit sparkplugs 101".. there is more if you want to know.. :fing02:

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I thought that CA was bad, but that sounds ridiculous! Smog testing requirements for a 17 year old vehicle???! That almost feels like extortion! The AZ DOT MUST know that a good majority of those older vehicles, 4 or 2 wheeled, WILL NOT PASS! I pray that CA does not go the same way with smog testing. So far motorcycles are excempt from that requirement here.....

Beck

9r VFR

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I'd think a freer flowing air filter like the UNI would cause the mixture to lean out, not go richer. That would be why you need to go up in jet sizes when you open up your intake and exhaust with aftermarket filters and pipes.

This may be silly but try the emission test with no air filter in place to REALLY lean it out? :huh:

Those emission laws sound like a draconian attempt by AZ to get older vehicles off the road.

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Ummmm...emission testing in AZ is gone! I have not had to take a bike thru since 05 I think! I know in Pima and Maricopa counties bikes are exempt....arent these are the only 2 counties that require cars/trucks to get tested so why do you have to go thru?? Makes no sense...but then again Government rarely does. What couny are you in? Register the bikes somewhere else and be done w it.

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I live in Queen Creek/San Tan Valley and they consider it the Phoenix metro area according to the zip code boundaries. I am positive I have to do emissions because the notice I have says its required.

Cruzinaz the hi flo filtro OEM style filter I bought to try for the second test is identical to OEM. It has the same part numbers, color media, and screens at the bottom of the element. I know this because I purchased the OEM when I bought the bike in 08 which I replaced and put the uni in.

The link I posted above says that they keep extending the bill to stop motorcycle emissions, but are still waiting for the EPA to approve of it.

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Could always try to lean it out chemically with a bottle of Heet or similar alcohol product. Adjust idle screws for leaner running?

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NM Bill the oil has been changed like 150 miles ago before the plates expired..

When looking through the pamplet I found my issue of failing hydrocarbons and passing carbon minoxide. When looking up the causes, it says that it is normally caused by a lean condition from a vacuum leak or weak ignition system components.

Is there a way to test the coils besides the resistance check found in the service manual?

Plus do you think the PAIR system could be causing the vacuum leak? Its all there but the weird filter element that attaches to it is dry rotted.

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