Chain and spocket replacement

[Guest huntkcsr]

Its time to replace my chain on my '92 and '94 vfr's. Looking for helpful suggestion on what to use as far as chain type, brand, sprocket set up, gearing,etc. Need best set up for top end. Thanks in advance.

[RollinAgain]

Both the 3rd and 4th Gen use a 112 link 530 chain. I would recommend using either RK, EK, or D.I.D branded o-ring type chain and replace the sprockets with STEEL sprockets and not Aluminum which wear out much quicker. I would also recommend getting a chain with either a rivet type or screw type masterlink instead of getting one with a clip on type masterlink. Everything you need can be be purchased at http://www.sprocketcenter.com

Just realize that messing with the gearing will affect both the speedometer and odometer readings. The OEM sprockets are 16 tooth front and 42 tooth rear. Substituting a larger front or smaller rear sprocket lowers the gear ratio resulting in more speed for a given engine rpm. A smaller front or larger rear sprocket gives less speed for a given rpm. Are you planning on doing the work yourself or having somone else do it for you?

Rollin

[VFR-SPORT]

I just replaced the chain/sprockets on my 07. I bought a X or Z ring RK chain and used the rivet master link. I chose to go 1 up (17 tooth) on the front sprocket. The change drops the revs at a given speed by about 500 RPMs and now the speedometer is pretty accurate when compared to a GPS. Plus I do a lot of long distance driving so speed is not an issue for me.

[The mailman]

I'm very happy with the X-ring that I bought just over a year ago now. I went down one tooth on the front sprocket for more pull off the line and hated what it did to my speedo and I was always trying to shift into 6th when I was already there. That didn't last but about 6 months and I went back to stock sprockets.

[JZH]

16/43, actually.

I like to use OEM fronts, which have the rubber sound-deadening bits on them. Not that I've noticed much of an unbearable din from un-sound-deadened front sprockets, though. Come to think of it I'm not sure why I like to use OEM front sprockets. Just gotta be different, I guess!

Ciao,

[NakedViffer]

Using an aluminum sprocket is more than acceptable when on the rear, and when its a quality unit. My rear +2 Vortex sprocket endured an entire season of me thrashing on it so far, and hasn't shown ANY amount of wear, all my teeth are still sharp and like new. The way most people ride their VFR's, a sprocket like this will easily outlast a chain. Maybe even two. Not to mention its giving you a nice reduction in both unsprung weight, and rotating mass.

[squirrelman]

Avoid alloy sprockets is my advice.

Total cost for a quality combo to do chain and sprockets runs abput $165-$180, no way around it.

If you use cheaper components, they'll need replacement sooner.

[Guest]

My advice on chains and sprockets is limited to:

Fit a Scottoiler to keep the chain lubricated (look up on web). I have used one since 1991 and obtained 102,000 klm from my original chain. It had only 'stretched' 10 mm when I decided to change it, compared to the new chain.

If you change your front sprocket at every 40,000 klm and your rear sprocket every 80,000klm you will always have a smooth vibration free transmission.

I only use spray on chain lube when I wash the bike, after dewatering the chain with WD40.

I have a friend who has achieved 190,000klm on the original chain AND sprockets, although I have ridden his VFR800 at about 170,000klm and the transmission was loose but bearable. I do not recommend leaving that long but he is a tightwad!

Personally I would not change the standard gearing, it works fine for me.

[Guest]

i was going to say DID 530VM, but it looks like they came out with a new chain, DID is my favorite after trying all the brands on my past dirtbikes. The look and feel is top-notch, along with high tensile strength. The gold color will look sweet on the viffer to