Shortening The Brake Pedal.. Need Welding Info

[marid2apterbilt]

Getting a bent rear Brake pedal for a 6th gen from a member and needing info on welding it together after i shorten it..

I have a tig/wire feed 125amp welder but not sure what kind of wire i need to use, etc..

Aside from beveling the edges due to the thickness of the Brake pedal arm, What else do i need to know.. I have never welded before so any and all info will be great..

What kind of wire?

can I use flux core or do i need to use gas.

Can i use a wire feed for this..

What kind of metal is used to make these?

Next will be lengthening the shifter or installing a 959 shifter and peg.

I bumped my boot on the pavement a few weeks ago and like having all the controls within reach.. So in keeping my feet out of the way (size 13) mods are in order...

Thanks for any assistance..

[jeremy556]

Bumping boots on pavement is most likely due to improper foot placement.

If this is your first time welding, I think the expensive brake pedal is the last thing you want to practice on. :unsure:

[P.J.]

The brake pedal looks like it's cast aluminum. I tried having some cast aluminum welded once, and it did not work at all. Hopefully you will have better luck.

[Guest]

Getting a bent rear Brake pedal for a 6th gen from a member and needing info on welding it together after i shorten it..

I have a tig/wire feed 125amp welder but not sure what kind of wire i need to use, etc..

Aside from beveling the edges due to the thickness of the Brake pedal arm, What else do i need to know.. I have never welded before so any and all info will be great..

What kind of wire?

can I use flux core or do i need to use gas.

Can i use a wire feed for this..

What kind of metal is used to make these?

Next will be lengthening the shifter or installing a 959 shifter and peg.

I bumped my boot on the pavement a few weeks ago and like having all the controls within reach.. So in keeping my feet out of the way (size 13) mods are in order...

By your mention of wire feed, you have a MIG not a TIG. TIG creates a heat source with a arc from a tungston electrode and filler road is fed into the puddle of molten metal to complete the weld.

I'd suggest taking the part to a welder. Have him fill the weld above the surfaces, that way you can file the weld flat, sand and polish it and you won't be able to detect the weld.

Thanks for any assistance..

[Guest]

im no certified welder but i was taught how to weld. if it is an aluminium lever (which it probably is) it will have to be tig welded, if you try and use some flux core wire to weld it together first off it wont work, and second you wil introduce carbon into the aluminium which will render it impossible to tig weld the right way. wether the aluminium is cast or not it doesnt matter it is all tig welded the same. the best thing to do would be to either take it to a real welding shop and tell them what you want, or heat it up with one of those really small propane torches and bend it back into shape. but remember aluminium has a much lower melting point then steel so if you leave the heat on it for to long it will just melt. so i think the best course of action is to take it to a real welding shop. if you are just learning how to weld and arent totally comfortable with it quite yet do you trust your welds to hold up under load? especially since its a brake(yea it is a rear but still) just some food for thought.

[Guest]

You aren't going to weld aluminum with your set up. Pretty much your only option is to take it somewhere.

[JTG]

I've been welding for about 18 years, both professionally and as a hobby. The short version is that you should NOT try to do this yourself.

Welding takes a matter of hours to learn and many years to perfect, with aluminum being more fussy then either steel or stainless it really isn't a good place to start. Also aluminum MIG wire is too soft to push through a typical MIG gun so you need a spool gun attachment which houses a small spool of aluminum wire right above your hand. You would also need gas (argon) to weld aluminum and it would still turn out pretty crappy because spool guns aren't very precise tools. The best and only way to really do this is with a TIG welder, which takes far more time and patience than MIG welding does but when done well produces beautiful welds.

All that to say find a good metal shop, and let them do the work. Also aluminum has to be exceptionally clean to be properly welded, certain grinding wheels and carbon steel wire brushes can leave deposits on the aluminum which will degrade the quality of weld (in other words it could fail). So what I'm saying is let the metal shop do everything.

Good luck whatever you do :unsure:

[skuuter]

Lost here Sam.......I don't understand how shortening the brake lever will keep your boot off of the highway. It should already be above the lever......... :unsure: Shortening it is also gonna' make it a lot harder to mash to get the same amount of braking (I never use the rear unless I'm coming to a complete or panic stop anyway). Need to get the balls of your feet up on the pegs in the really tight, twisty stuff........... :fing02:

[marid2apterbilt]

Thanks guys I will take it to a shop n have it done... Skuuter, Im lazy and hate having to change my foot position yo reach the brake pedal if I have them up high on the pegs.. Not to mention My foot is a good bit wider than the pegs, etc... If i have it set just to reach the pedal Its really out there.. Yes Big feet.. I wanna just be able to rock my foot on the ball of it and be able to slow or scrub off a little speed... Shortening the pedal about 1" maybe 1.5 will do this.. Dont need enough leverage to lock it up..

[skuuter]

Thanks guys I will take it to a shop n have it done... Skuuter, Im lazy and hate having to change my foot position yo reach the brake pedal if I have them up high on the pegs.. Not to mention My foot is a good bit wider than the pegs, etc... If i have it set just to reach the pedal Its really out there.. Yes Big feet.. I wanna just be able to rock my foot on the ball of it and be able to slow or scrub off a little speed... Shortening the pedal about 1" maybe 1.5 will do this.. Dont need enough leverage to lock it up..

OK.....I'm fine with it if you are.......... :unsure:

[Baileyrock]

I have a tig/wire feed 125amp welder but not sure what kind of wire i need to use, etc..

You have a MIG welder, not a TIG if it's wire feed. TIG's are sweet and best for aluminum.

Many welding shops will charge a an hour Min. ($50) UNLESS YOUR LUCKY. I suggest you just cut it off at whatever length you want, drill and tap the arm for a small bolt to now be the foot tab. Save you a lot of time and money! :unsure:

[SEBSPEED]

Thanks guys I will take it to a shop n have it done... Skuuter, Im lazy and hate having to change my foot position yo reach the brake pedal if I have them up high on the pegs.. Not to mention My foot is a good bit wider than the pegs, etc... If i have it set just to reach the pedal Its really out there.. Yes Big feet.. I wanna just be able to rock my foot on the ball of it and be able to slow or scrub off a little speed... Shortening the pedal about 1" maybe 1.5 will do this.. Dont need enough leverage to lock it up..

Ok, lets break this out twofold. On the welding side, I don't have much positive input for you. First and foremost, you can't MIG the lever, even with aluminum wire, and especially not with a 110 unit. It just won't penetrate enough, and on the other hand, cast aluminum is a bitch to weld in any case.

The parts should really be pre-heated as well before welding WITH A TIG. Use an oxy-ace setup and heat to 150-200 degrees. You can judge the heat by getting the parts sooty, then heating with a cleaner mix until the soot burns off.

You'll want to use a soft filler rod like 2024.

The problem with cast metal, is that it's very porous, and although casting processes have come a long way, the material used is not of any high quality - and - the nature of the process introduces pockets of air and slag/gas/dirt that gets trapped in the metal as it cools. If one of the levers you have is broken(or after you cut one), take a close look at the cut/broken ends. You will see the little pockets/bubbles I'm talking about.

It becomes a problem when you introduce the arc to the material, these pockets break down and the crap inside bubbles up into your weld, basically ruining it. You can add a lot of filler material while trying to "cook it off", then go back and grind it out and re-weld, but you won't ever have a 100% good weld, and the weld will be the strongest part of the whole lever, with possible embrittlement of the surrounding area.

Due to the shape and size of the lever, you also need to take into account all the heat cycles you're putting it through. To do this right, after getting a weld close, you should have it heat treated. There's a few ways to get that done, but do you see how involved this is getting? Which brings me to my other point -

I also have sz 13 feet and don't have an issue with the lever where it is. I don't think this mod will benefit you in furthering your riding technique. I think you would benefit more by working on being smooth and not riding over your head, which should keep you out of situations where you'll want to panic stop. And in the same breath, using the back brake and effectively squatting the rear will only further reduce your traction at the front, which, I assume, is what you think you are gaining by using the rear?

The rear brake really only helps in maneuvering the bike at low(like parking lot) speeds, at higher levels of forward momentum you will benefit MUCH more by using proper countersteering and body positioning techniques, combined with smooth throttle and front brake inputs.

Sorry for all the seemingly bad news Sam, I hope I gave you some helpful insight.

[SEBSPEED]

I suggest you just cut it off at whatever length you want, drill and tap the arm for a small bolt to now be the foot tab. Save you a lot of time and money! :unsure:

Great idea for a test setup! Stick a piece of rubber fuel line over the bolt for a little extra grip. :fing02:

[Guest]

I bumped my boot on the pavement a few weeks ago and like having all the controls within reach.. So in keeping my feet out of the way (size 13) mods are in order...

Applying the rear brake brake while leaning in a corner?

I would think the linked brakes would provide any rear end braking you want unless you're backing the bike into the turn, which should only be done on a track anyhow.

[SEBSPEED]

I bumped my boot on the pavement a few weeks ago and like having all the controls within reach.. So in keeping my feet out of the way (size 13) mods are in order...

Applying the rear brake brake while leaning in a corner?

I would think the linked brakes would provide any rear end braking you want unless you're backing the bike into the turn, which should only be done on a track anyhow.

Bikes are backed in by downshifting, not by braking.

[marid2apterbilt]

I suggest you just cut it off at whatever length you want, drill and tap the arm for a small bolt to now be the foot tab. Save you a lot of time and money! :fing02:

Great idea for a test setup! Stick a piece of rubber fuel line over the bolt for a little extra grip. :fing02:

Now there is a idea.. Thanks Br... Since it seems welding is out.. Tapping it or just drilling it thru and adding a bolt seems easier..

[skuuter]

I suggest you just cut it off at whatever length you want, drill and tap the arm for a small bolt to now be the foot tab. Save you a lot of time and money! :fing02:

Great idea for a test setup! Stick a piece of rubber fuel line over the bolt for a little extra grip. :fing02:

Now there is a idea.. Thanks Br... Since it seems welding is out.. Tapping it or just drilling it thru and adding a bolt seems easier..

Read SEB's "Great idea for a test setup".......I got a feeling the cast aluminum pedal with a steel bolt in it is gonna' break out pretty soon under stress from the #13.............. :fing02:

[cruzinaz]

I suggest you just cut it off at whatever length you want, drill and tap the arm for a small bolt to now be the foot tab. Save you a lot of time and money! :fing02:

Great idea for a test setup! Stick a piece of rubber fuel line over the bolt for a little extra grip. :fing02:

Now there is a idea.. Thanks Br... Since it seems welding is out.. Tapping it or just drilling it thru and adding a bolt seems easier..

Read SEB's "Great idea for a test setup".......I got a feeling the cast aluminum pedal with a steel bolt in it is gonna' break out pretty soon under stress from the #13.............. :fing02:

Ok, you guys beat me to the keyboard, I was thinking about this post riding today and had the same thoughts about the drill and tap idea, but why cut the end of the lever off? have 2 "pads" ,,,,cake and eat it too?

[SEBSPEED]

Read SEB's "Great idea for a test setup".......I got a feeling the cast aluminum pedal with a steel bolt in it is gonna' break out pretty soon under stress from the #13.............. :fing02:

Ok, you guys beat me to the keyboard, I was thinking about this post riding today and had the same thoughts about the drill and tap idea, but why cut the end of the lever off? have 2 "pads" ,,,,cake and eat it too?

The closer "pad" might get in the way due to the angle of the foot & lever? :fing02:

And I don't see how the lever is going to bend from the stress of the bolt, since it's not bending while being used as a longer lever with a larger "pad" at the end now? It's cast, not butter... I would drill all the way through and not tap it though, slide the bolt in with the head on the motor side and lock it in place with a pair of nuts & loctite. Use a small screw and a piece of thick wall tubing to make up the size difference, the bolt should bend first!

[marid2apterbilt]

I suggest you just cut it off at whatever length you want, drill and tap the arm for a small bolt to now be the foot tab. Save you a lot of time and money! :fing02:

Great idea for a test setup! Stick a piece of rubber fuel line over the bolt for a little extra grip. :fing02:

Now there is a idea.. Thanks Br... Since it seems welding is out.. Tapping it or just drilling it thru and adding a bolt seems easier..

Read SEB's "Great idea for a test setup".......I got a feeling the cast aluminum pedal with a steel bolt in it is gonna' break out pretty soon under stress from the #13.............. :fing02:

Ok, you guys beat me to the keyboard, I was thinking about this post riding today and had the same thoughts about the drill and tap idea, but why cut the end of the lever off? have 2 "pads" ,,,,cake and eat it too?

Yes Cruzinaz I went down stairs a little bit ago and thought the same.. Depends on how bent the donor pedal is already.. Havent recieved it yet..

[jeremy556]

Thanks guys I will take it to a shop n have it done... Skuuter, Im lazy and hate having to change my foot position yo reach the brake pedal if I have them up high on the pegs.. Not to mention My foot is a good bit wider than the pegs, etc... If i have it set just to reach the pedal Its really out there.. Yes Big feet.. I wanna just be able to rock my foot on the ball of it and be able to slow or scrub off a little speed... Shortening the pedal about 1" maybe 1.5 will do this.. Dont need enough leverage to lock it up..

Just use the front brake instead, it works much better. Back brake is good slowing down in sand, gravel, or grass, and not much else when you are in motion. It is good at stops to keep the bike from rolling and your brake light on.