Faq: Low-budget Fixes

[Guest mdr vfr]

Good Stuff

[Guest wallace_18]

INTAKE SYSTEM

Mod: Flapper valve disable

Benefits: Smoother acceleraton through 5k rpm??? Sound enhancement at low rpms?

How to: Lift fuel tank, pull vacuum hose off of flapper control valve diaphram on top of air box, plug hose with bolt, secure with zip tie (optional).

How it works: Disconnecting the vacuum hose will keep the flapper valve from closing the second intake opening under the control valve.

Time: 5 minutes

Cost: $0

Permanance: Completely reversible.

Help: got to http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?page=parts

click on "Air Cleaner" for drawing

Mod: Remove intake snorkel

Benefits: Sound enhancement at WOT, possible performance benefit due to less restriction.

How to: Lift fuel tank, pull snorkle out of right front of airbox lid.

Time: 5 minutes

Cost: $0

Permanance: Completely reversible.

Help: got to http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?page=parts

click on "Air Cleaner" for drawing

I can see the snorkel as making a difference without too much negative things, Just wondering what the downside is of the flapper valve? Obviously honda put it there for a reason? and does it make that much difference? Keen to hear peoples thought before i do it?

One other thing, anybody think it would be of any benifit to make 2 - 3 mm spacers to sit under the stock handle bars? Thinking of doing it as a cheaper alternative to aftermarket bars?

Thanks for your help!

[fallzboater]

I can see the snorkel as making a difference without too much negative things, Just wondering what the downside is of the flapper valve? Obviously honda put it there for a reason? and does it make that much difference? Keen to hear peoples thought before i do it?

One other thing, anybody think it would be of any benifit to make 2 - 3 mm spacers to sit under the stock handle bars? Thinking of doing it as a cheaper alternative to aftermarket bars?

Thanks for your help!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

There has been a lot of discussion about the flapper. I'm sure there were some dissenting opinions, but I believe the consesus was that the flapper is a sound control device. So, if you dissable the flapper, you'll get a little more intake noise, which some of us like, but you won't likely get any performance gain without other tuning.

You can raise the bars a bit, but the pegs that limit their movement should still engage the slots on the upper triple-clamp. However, I've had aftermarket clipons on other bikes that didn't have this peg, so I don't think it's critical unless you're in the habbit of leaving the clamp bolts loose. Same thing with the wire rings that clip into the grooves on the top of the fork tubes, just a safety feature in case things come loose due to improper torquing. Obviously, there isn't much room to raise the bars before you get to the top of the fork tubes, anyway.

[Guest wallace_18]

i was also thinking of making a new spacer with the locking pin moved and another groove to relocate the original pin, so as to lift the bar and also turn them out to be closer to horizontal across the bar. Thoughts?

[ProMed]

REAR SUSPENSION:

Mod:  Increase rear ride height by shimming under top shock mount

Benefits:  Improved handling due to steeper head angle, reduced trail, increased cornering clearance

How to:  Add approximately 4mm of shims under top shock mount to raise ride height ~12mm.

Time: 

Cost:  $0

Permanance:  Completely reversible.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Could anyone help me find anymore information regarding this mod of shimming the top shock mount? My searches are coming up empty...

[?art West-VL.]

Hi all,

My first post here and instead of firing a load of questions, I'll start with some pics of how I'm trying to protect my bike if it would fall ... again! <_<

I just put two round shaped black ball's in the hole's of the frame that supports the foot peg's of the passenger.

(Sorry for the strange way I talk, I'm from Belgium and can't always explain the way I want to)

Very simple, cost's almost nothing, these ball's are knobs from a standing drill handle.

I put a little glue on the thread, so they would not get loose.

With this I hope to protect the exhausts somewhat.

I made some pics, but it was dark, so I'll have to redo that in daylight, sorry for the waiting, so much for starting with pics huh? :pissed:

?art

[?art West-VL.]

Finally took pictures:

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

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The bolt was something that I had laying around, will change it to a nice round headed bolt.

Diameter of the ball is 32mm (1?inch)

[Rogue]

i was also thinking of making a new spacer with the locking pin moved and another groove to relocate the original pin, so as to lift the bar and also turn them out to be closer to horizontal across the bar. Thoughts?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Dont'cha know there's nothing new in this world mate ?

Rod

Edited March 17, 2006 by Rogue

[jeremy556]

Finally took pictures:

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

The bolt was something that I had laying around, will change it to a nice round headed bolt.

Diameter of the ball is 32mm (1?inch)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Did you highside or flip or something? My bike the lower part of the rear pegs toucheddown and a little on the rear fairing, didn't seem to come close to the exhaust.

I am guessing you also got frame sliders for the front of the bike.

[?art West-VL.]

jeremy556,

Sorry about the cropped picture, here's a wider angle picture.

The way I figured it (theoretically):

The 1?inch should be enough to protect the plastic fairing, just above that ball and the exhaust to (if the fairing would get ripped off in the slide), since the bike will balance towards the front, so the exhaust will tilt a bit upwards.

This way I'm hoping that the bike will slide on the passenger foot peg + the small ball + the front slider (yet to be made)

All this, of-course, on a flat surface.

The front sliders are not yet made.

Yes, I'm making them myself and no, there will be no drilling into the water tank, not even in the fairings!

All for free and will post how I did it.

This should be next weekend if all go's well.

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

Sexy ball, ain't it? :unsure:

Anyway, I figure it's better then that ugly hole in the flat end of that part.

- Still working on getting that chicken trail wider... :D

Edited March 18, 2006 by ?art West-VL.

[jeremy556]

Good luck on the front sliders, but I doubt it is possible to have front sliders that would be strong enough to withstand a crash without cutting anything. You must also keep in mind balance points, and if a location would lever, for example the front end into the ground, etc, etc.

[?art West-VL.]

The front sliders are very simple.

Just so you guys wouldn't have to wait a whole week, here a little explanation:

Just next to where the sliders normally go, more to the backside, there is a screw and behind that there is a bracket that's about 44mm (1-3/4inch) toward the frame.

I replaced this bracket with the same one I made myself, but thicker and without the cutout hole, so this part is already done.

Once the sliders are made, they are simply screwed on to the reinforced brackets.

I do realize that it's all theoretical and I WILL have damage to the bike, if it would fall (again )

But I'm trying to do this as cheap as possible and still trying to get good results that are not ugly.

Yes, I'm a cheap bastard :D

[?art West-VL.]

Finally had some time to reply with the result of the DIY sliders.

All opinions and questions are welcome!

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

[Guest seawrench]

Good to hear that you beefed up the bracket so it doesn't fold under the impact.

[ggathagan]

Good luck on the front sliders, but I doubt it is possible to have front sliders that would be strong enough to withstand a crash without cutting anything. You must also keep in mind balance points, and if a location would lever, for example the front end into the ground, etc, etc.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Just to stir the pot, HPS markets a set of sliders that don't require you to cut the fairing:

Search for #24912 on the webpage:

http://www.bikehps.com/acatalog/BikeHPS_On...r_Honda_19.html

We had a discussion over at the VFR mailing list about these about a year ago.

Those who didn't have them thought that the would end up damaging your radiators.

A couple of owners that *did* have them said that they had proven to be crash-worthy:

https://lists.cs.wisc.edu/archive/vfr/2005-.../msg00353.shtml

VFR world used to have pictures of an installation, but since the site revamp, I can't find the article.

[theoxmole]

I think they look good. As for the balls on the passenger brackets, they just might work. My bike slid on the rear pegs and my Givi rack up near the tail piece. The rack obviously saved the rear from touching the ground.

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

DSC04621.JPG

If nothing else the little balls will give you a good place to hook some bungee cords.

[drb]

With so many posts about suspension it makes me think there must be alot of you that are track riding alot. I am 6'4" 220 pounds. I increased my front preload halfway from standard setting to full hard. I changed the rear preload from 2 (standard) to 5, and the rear rebound closer to hard. In my opinion this helped alot. I didnt think the suspension was bad before but did notice the improvement. I am 36 years old and have been riding on the street since 18 years old. Fortunately I live very close to Angeles Crest Hwy, and Azusa Canyon. There are usually a huge number of riders at these areas when I ride there on the weekends on every make and model of sportbike. I either pass or leave behind 9 out of 10 riders on bikes that are faster and handle better than my 02 VFR. Please keep in mind that in my opinion I am not pushing the VFR that hard. Also I ride the bike in town alot, on the freeway for good distances. I'm sure I will receive alot of guff about this post but truthfully I dont understand the reason for so much talk about suspension mods unless its just to spruce up the bikes with some cool new stuff, that I understand. But for my weight and size I have no complaints about the suspension from in town to smoking Ducati's and R1's all day long so not sure why anyone else would!

[?art West-VL.]

Well, my ball's are gone :huh: , have a Givi rack now, they wouldn't do anything anymore when the bike drops.

As for the balls on the passenger brackets, they just might work.  My bike slid on the rear pegs and my Givi rack up near the tail piece.  The rack obviously saved the rear from touching the ground.

If nothing else the little balls will give you a good place to hook some bungee cords.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[ProMed]

With so many posts about suspension it makes me think there must be alot of you that are track riding alot. I am 6'4" 220 pounds. I increased my front preload halfway from standard setting to full hard. I changed the rear preload from 2 (standard) to 5, and the rear rebound closer to hard. In my opinion this helped alot. I didnt think the suspension was bad before but did notice the improvement. 

I either pass or leave behind 9 out of 10 riders on bikes that are faster and handle better than my 02 VFR.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I am 6'1" 215 and recently put the 1.0 Race Tech springs in the forks, then raised the oil level a little. My rear preload is maxed at 5 as well. I also dropped the forks 8mm.

Huge difference for very little money. I didn't realize how bad it was until feeling it now. Of course this makes me want to upgrade even more.... the rear shock is next on the list. Your sag should be pretty far off with the stock springs at 220#. With the right setup it sounds like you could be passing 10 of 10 riders!

[drb]

The rear at 5 is not maxed out, max is 7. I'm sure that almost anything can be improved if you want to spend the money! I'm just saying that unless your a professional racer spending money on suspension isnt going to make anyone a faster or better rider. In my opinion its kind of like new tennis shoes, they always make you run faster if you believe they do. With my weight the sag should be way off and there shouldnt be enough rebound and compression dampening! If that is true why am I just as fast or faster than everyone else? Why do I think the bike is so comfortable and well handling the way it is? Its not from lack of experience! I just got rid of a 2005 CBR1000RR the changes that I made to suspension settings made a night and day difference. Again I'm just saying that in my opinion the VFR's suspension is better than adequate for any riding except possibly a very advanced rider at the track!

[ProMed]

The rear at 5 is not maxed out, max is 7.

Mine must be set at 7 then, I maxxed it out after one ride on the bike.

I'm just saying that unless your a professional racer spending money on suspension isnt going to make anyone a faster or better rider.

It has nothing to do with the speed of the rider, correct suspension settings will only make for a safer, more stable and comfortable bike... I personally didn't enjoy the nose dives when squeezing on the binders or the wallowing when settling into a turn. It seems you would understand this from the night and day difference you felt on the CBR1K.

With my weight the sag should be way off and there shouldnt be enough rebound and compression dampening! If that is true why am I just as fast or faster than everyone else?

It is true, your sag is way off at 200+ lbs, the tape measure doesn't lie! Hopefully you will lining up on the grid for the Moto GP at Laguna Seca if you are as fast as you say... I hear there is a ton of money to be made!

Again I'm just saying that in my opinion the VFR's suspension is better than adequate for any riding except possibly a very advanced rider at the track!

I will agree that it is adequate stock, but that it also can be made more than adequate for a 200+ rider with just a few quick adjustments and small amount of money. This thread is titled "Low-Budget Fixes".

[drb]

Since I dont intend on taking apart half my bike (front wheel calipers handle bars, forks etc.....) its not a small amount of money unless someone wants to come over and help me do it. This is only a low budget fix if you are a pretty competent mechanic and plan on doing all yourself!

[Tufelhunden]

Anyone else having a problem accessing the pages for the different mods?

Tried numerous times and still nothing. Can't locate it with the search either. <_<

[Guest FactoryRC46]

Please add comments, links to how-to threads, and any new mods. I'll compile and edit as we go along, and add my impressions as I perform the mods. Feel free to PM me, or just reply.

Here's few that will do wonders in the looks department and save you some weight:

1. Remove the passenger pegs/brackets

2. Remove the rear fender - the plate can be remounted between the stock pipes using a piece of 3/4x3/4 aluminum 'L' from the hardware store, and the stocke fender mounting holes. And you can bend the newly formed bracket easily to angle the plate to your liking. I have a hugger on my '04 and this looks really cool with the rear pags gone. When I went to an after market exhaust I did have to reposition it slightly furtur back.

3. remove the charcoal canister. This saves weight and the thing only gets in your way during oil filter changes.

All are free ($2.00 for the aluminum) and all reversable.

[Guest Spam]

Please add comments, links to how-to threads, and any new mods. I'll compile and edit as we go along, and add my impressions as I perform the mods. Feel free to PM me, or just reply.

Here's few that will do wonders in the looks department and save you some weight:

1. Remove the passenger pegs/brackets

2. Remove the rear fender - the plate can be remounted between the stock pipes using a piece of 3/4x3/4 aluminum 'L' from the hardware store, and the stocke fender mounting holes. And you can bend the newly formed bracket easily to angle the plate to your liking. I have a hugger on my '04 and this looks really cool with the rear pags gone. When I went to an after market exhaust I did have to reposition it slightly furtur back.

3. remove the charcoal canister. This saves weight and the thing only gets in your way during oil filter changes.

All are free ($2.00 for the aluminum) and all reversable.

You can even save on the brackets. I used the brackets from the front reflectors. Just flattened them out in vise and the offset lined up exactly with exisiting mounts.