?art West-VL.

My light doesn't come on all the time, I suspect it could be a bad connection because I ride in the rain a lot. If I find the time, I would like to check all connectors, this could solve a lot of things with a lot of bikes I guess.

Update: Sometimes when I start the bike, the light doesn't come on, mostly it does. Also, when I'm engine braking, I hear some ticking noise. I'm pretty sure the valve for the coolant is stuck open too, temperature doesn't rise fast. Thoughts anyone?

Hey guys, Not experienced with working on my bike but want to try before going to the dealer. My light gave two long and three short blinks, I think 'code 23' Can I just reset the memory or should I search for the problem immediately? This started after riding for 6 hours in the rain... The bike has 42000km.

Thanks V4 Rosso. I thought there would be more comment, come on guy's, give it to me!

Here is the sound file. :huh: * peep or tOOt * What do you prefer? (300kB) I doubled the sound and mixed it together, but the original sound and volume was not touched! Recorded behind a wall! Otherwise the sound was distorted. ►Your opinion please? Bart :music:

Heey, is this one of those threads that gets PINNED because of the contents?? :goofy: :beer: With some luck, I'll have the sound file tomorrow, if time permits. :music: :wheel:

That would be safer for keeping out water and bugs for sure! But sound waves are directional no matter what volume there produced at.The way they are mounted now, makes the sound waves bounce off the street and back up again, at an angle forward. If they would be mounted backwards the sound would be better heard behind the bike. Off topic: Lower frequencies are less directional vs. more directivity for the high frequencies. People who have hearing problems therefore can not concentrate on one conversation in a crowd because sound comes from everywhere. test: listen to a good speaker and slowly walk around it while playing music with high note content, right in front it will sound clear but moving to the side will lose the clear notes. Of course this is inside and a lot gets reflected from the walls, furniture, etc. In open field you would totally miss the high notes, because of that, when moving to the back of the speaker.

Thinking about it, maybe a fine membrane, like a piece of a condom or something, would make it waterproof and bug proof. Another thing: the sound file will have to wait, I covered the bike up for the rain that is predicted and I'm not planning to ride in the first few day's. If the clip is done, I'm posting the link here... Bart

I'm not so worried about rain since they are not hanging behind the wheel but next to it. If they do die in the first rainy ride, I promise to let you know in this thread! Bugs will probably get in there, hmm, maybe I'll steel some pantie's from the girl next door to put on my horn...

Thanks for the replies :D It is a bit bold, yes, but I don't really mind and yes, the reason is because of those *bleep* cagers‼ :beer: The color is a bit off, more a violet-ish color then the bike color, but it doesn't curse if you see it for real, depends on the position of the sun. I will try to get a descent sound clip for you guy's, they sound loud and it's a three-tone squirt! → The original still -meep-meep-'s along♫♪ lol :goofy:

OK, thanks. Didn't think about the water. Nice job!

Kanadian Ken, Why do you keep the passenger grab bars?

Weld you're side stand yourself... Since I'm unable to start a new topic, here goes the next step I did; 'Shorten the side stand'... I removed the side stand, cleaned it up real good and then started the modification. First I cut off the lower end, then cut off a few mm the same way the first cut was done, whatever length desired. I cut off a full cm! Because the rear and the front dropped quite a bit. After the cutting is done, cleaned up the parts and grind a 45? angle to all sides, this is meant to fill up with the electrode, wich was stainless steel 316 in my case. Just welding two part together, without this angled gap, wouldn't be strong enough! The rest will be clear in the pictures. O yeah, use Loctite, or something else, to secure the bolts and nuts! Feel free to ask questions. ?. border='0' alt='user posted image' /> border='0' alt='user posted image' /> border='0' alt='user posted image' /> border='0' alt='user posted image' /> border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Just ad a bit of acid to get this effect, it's not importend but it shows the difference between the weld and the original steel side stand. border='0' alt='user posted image' /> finished border='0' alt='user posted image' /> border='0' alt='user posted image' /> ?.

Yes Rod, It was you who inspired me in the first please, if I remember correctly. I didn't have the chance to make such nice one's, mine are very crude, just a peace of tube and on that tube I welded something to fit the dip and the pin (sorry, english dictionary incomplete in my head ) It looks bad when not mounted, but once in place, it's hard to even notice the thing. btw, my ring's are 30mm high :o but the handle's are flush with the forks for maximum height, making the total drop on the forks about 20mm... hmm, memory overload...it IS originally 44mm , right? It measure's 64mm from the top of the forks to the plate now.

Well, my ball's are gone :huh: , have a Givi rack now, they wouldn't do anything anymore when the bike drops.

lizard, Thanks for the clear reply... Would the lowering on a VFR 2005 also be 7/16 on rotating the triangles? Didn't measure that when doing the mod. I thought I read somewhere on this forum, that it's about 20m lower for a 2005, can't remember for sure. What did you do with the side stand? My bike already stands quite right up, a bit scary. And now that I will lower it even further, I was wondering how you, or someone else, fixed that with the side stand. (Did everyone do it like MegaMan?) Is a steering damper needed, when the forks are changed that much? I think the bike might be more sensitive to shaking , when the angle of the forks is changed? to be continued...

Hey Lizard, I moved the forks only 5mm (0,2") up, and it doesn't feel any different (also did the "shock mount thingies" lowering thing <_<) How much did you move the forks up, to feel the lighter steering? This would really help me out because I will have to make new rings and want to get it right in one attempt. ?art

Finally had some time to reply with the result of the DIY sliders. All opinions and questions are welcome! border='0' alt='user posted image' /> border='0' alt='user posted image' /> border='0' alt='user posted image' />

Thanks! Did it and I'm more confident now. I can just get my heels on the floor now. I did soften it to number one and softened the front to the third ring too. I rotated the damping of the rear shock completely out (ccw) Did I do something wrong? I'm trying to get the bike to steer better at lower speeds, short turns, but cannot seem to find the right setting yet, without compromising comfort. (Still a beginner)

The front sliders are very simple. Just so you guys wouldn't have to wait a whole week, here a little explanation: Just next to where the sliders normally go, more to the backside, there is a screw and behind that there is a bracket that's about 44mm (1-3/4inch) toward the frame. I replaced this bracket with the same one I made myself, but thicker and without the cutout hole, so this part is already done. Once the sliders are made, they are simply screwed on to the reinforced brackets. I do realize that it's all theoretical and I WILL have damage to the bike, if it would fall (again ) But I'm trying to do this as cheap as possible and still trying to get good results that are not ugly. Yes, I'm a cheap bastard :D

jeremy556, Sorry about the cropped picture, here's a wider angle picture. The way I figured it (theoretically): The 1?inch should be enough to protect the plastic fairing, just above that ball and the exhaust to (if the fairing would get ripped off in the slide), since the bike will balance towards the front, so the exhaust will tilt a bit upwards. This way I'm hoping that the bike will slide on the passenger foot peg + the small ball + the front slider (yet to be made) All this, of-course, on a flat surface. The front sliders are not yet made. Yes, I'm making them myself and no, there will be no drilling into the water tank, not even in the fairings! All for free and will post how I did it. This should be next weekend if all go's well. border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Sexy ball, ain't it? :unsure: Anyway, I figure it's better then that ugly hole in the flat end of that part. - Still working on getting that chicken trail wider... :D

Finally took pictures: border='0' alt='user posted image' /> border='0' alt='user posted image' /> The bolt was something that I had laying around, will change it to a nice round headed bolt. Diameter of the ball is 32mm (1?inch)