Rogue

Hmm. You must be one of those rare people whose thumbs point downwards when you hold you hands in front of you....I've STILL never seen a pic of a bike fitted with these kind of bars with the bars at anything approaching full lock.. I wonder why ?

Hi Adam, You have tried slackening the bars off and pushing them forward to take up the movement in the assembly ? There isn't much there but it may help. Otherwise your options are simple : File off some of the front edge of the engagement tab on the bars, or the risers,or both. Obviously this reduces the strength.. The risers replicate the tab engagement , so some people will simply lift the stock bars up the fork leg and retighten them there without a riser - this gives the same effect but the bar WILL rotate around the fork leg under heavy pressure so that would be your call safety wise. It could turn a simple parking lot tip-over into a new tank purchase.. In any event, you won't be able to move the bars FAR forward without finding the levers/switches hitting the fairing on full lock. Rod

You might think after going to all that trouble he might get the front mudguard (fender) to fit straight.... :fing02:

Fotunately they will still be able to let you know, since you rarely use your thumbs when you type. :rolleyes:

Dang it, pics would be a huge help here, as the Wilber's shock I'm getting has the same set up as yours, however both Dutchy and I have high mount exhausts, so in that case how do I mount my other remote reservoir??? Ok, so finally got around to re-fitting bits'n'pieces on my bike - here's the skinny on the Ohlins fitment.. Here's the remote preload adjuster: and the remote reservoir : The clicker on the remote reservoir can only be adjusted once the seat is removed, but I see that as a bonus. It fits neatly under the seat plastics. Rod

Hi Dutchy, This has been in my mind a lot recently, as I've just had my Ohlins off to get the spring preload adjusted by my good mate GreenVFR of the UK site: the install you have done looks wrong to me..my ohlins has both the remote canister and the hydraulic preload, and it fits with the preload adjuster mounted to the threaded hole in the subframe near the pillion peg mount, but behind the peg out of the way. The remote cannioster fits by the jubilee clips to the rear right subframe behind the rear brake reservoir. It actually is covered by the rear plastics, but of course, should really not need any adjustment once set. naturally I have no pics of this, but the shock will be being refitted this week, so I'll try to make sure it's clearer. The union bolt comes out of the front of the shock on my install. You may of course be perfectly happy with what you have done- but the hose doubling back into the rear of the canister screams at me.. Sorry..

The normal amount of "adjustment" in order to sharpen up the steering is between 5-10mm, so the answer is that you have raised the forks too much to lift the bar over the top of the fork leg, as you have said. I realise that this has been done to lower the bike. You could have simply unbolted the clutch assembly (2 bolts) and the switchgear from the bar.. further thoughts - it also helps a lot if you loosen / undo all the cable ties / clips which hold the wiring / throttle cables etc.. You should have bought properly designed and manufactured Risers... :salesman: Rod

Seems perfectly obvious to me. Pulling on it ?... one fork leg will be unbolted in the yokes and will move in parallel through the yokes - hey it's a spring! It will extend through the yoke by it's own unless it is stuck..the other fork will still be tight and will support the bike. Rod

The headers are plenty strong enough as long as they are generally in sound condition - plus the most obvious point : DO ONE FORK LEG AT A TIME! :rolleyes: Rod

Sorry to hear such a terrible ending to this thread.. The engineering work is pure metal porn. As a machinist I can appreciate fully the work you have done here. Good luck with your next bike(s). Rod

What the hell is "pultruding " ? :goofy:

Yes, it has changed, but the placement of the cut out where the tab engages has also changed so not all bars are interchangeable unless you remove the tab ... Rod

Tim, it's a small change for the better , anyway. You should try it regardless. Look for "fork height" and Yoke drop discussions. Cheers, Rod

hi Tim, The fork adjusters are on the top of the forks. What you are seeing is a cap which Genmar supply to hide the fact that the fork legs are not protruding fully through the clip-on once the risers are fitted. Personally, I don't agree with this for safety reasons, but luckily the VFR responds extremely well to sliding the fork leg up through the yoke. This has two benefits - 1) the bike turns into corners much nicer 2) The installation of the Genmars is safer . On the other hand, you could purchase a set of MY much nicer, and better designed risers which will do exactly the same job as the others, and at a lower price. have a little look at the link in my signature for info from the UK boards.There is no need for any alterations to cables etc and no problems with clearance at the fairing. Regards, Rod

Dont'cha know there's nothing new in this world mate ? Rod

Nice job. I work a Haas VF-6 amongst other CNC mills. I've never had to do any repair work to a frame, but I would certainly have gone with a carbide cutter from the start. I have however had experience of a VFR frame which had to be replaced due to incorrectly machined upper bearing seats. It's commonplace here to convert to taper bearings, and we have no problems getting standard sets to fit. Rod.