?art West-VL.

My light doesn't come on all the time, I suspect it could be a bad connection because I ride in the rain a lot. If I find the time, I would like to check all connectors, this could solve a lot of things with a lot of bikes I guess.

Update: Sometimes when I start the bike, the light doesn't come on, mostly it does. Also, when I'm engine braking, I hear some ticking noise. I'm pretty sure the valve for the coolant is stuck open too, temperature doesn't rise fast. Thoughts anyone?

Hey guys, Not experienced with working on my bike but want to try before going to the dealer. My light gave two long and three short blinks, I think 'code 23' Can I just reset the memory or should I search for the problem immediately? This started after riding for 6 hours in the rain... The bike has 42000km.

Thanks V4 Rosso. I thought there would be more comment, come on guy's, give it to me!

Here is the sound file. :huh: * peep or tOOt * What do you prefer? (300kB) I doubled the sound and mixed it together, but the original sound and volume was not touched! Recorded behind a wall! Otherwise the sound was distorted. ►Your opinion please? Bart :music:

Heey, is this one of those threads that gets PINNED because of the contents?? :goofy: :beer: With some luck, I'll have the sound file tomorrow, if time permits. :music: :wheel:

That would be safer for keeping out water and bugs for sure! But sound waves are directional no matter what volume there produced at.The way they are mounted now, makes the sound waves bounce off the street and back up again, at an angle forward. If they would be mounted backwards the sound would be better heard behind the bike. Off topic: Lower frequencies are less directional vs. more directivity for the high frequencies. People who have hearing problems therefore can not concentrate on one conversation in a crowd because sound comes from everywhere. test: listen to a good speaker and slowly walk around it while playing music with high note content, right in front it will sound clear but moving to the side will lose the clear notes. Of course this is inside and a lot gets reflected from the walls, furniture, etc. In open field you would totally miss the high notes, because of that, when moving to the back of the speaker.

Thinking about it, maybe a fine membrane, like a piece of a condom or something, would make it waterproof and bug proof. Another thing: the sound file will have to wait, I covered the bike up for the rain that is predicted and I'm not planning to ride in the first few day's. If the clip is done, I'm posting the link here... Bart

I'm not so worried about rain since they are not hanging behind the wheel but next to it. If they do die in the first rainy ride, I promise to let you know in this thread! Bugs will probably get in there, hmm, maybe I'll steel some pantie's from the girl next door to put on my horn...

Thanks for the replies :D It is a bit bold, yes, but I don't really mind and yes, the reason is because of those *bleep* cagers‼ :beer: The color is a bit off, more a violet-ish color then the bike color, but it doesn't curse if you see it for real, depends on the position of the sun. I will try to get a descent sound clip for you guy's, they sound loud and it's a three-tone squirt! → The original still -meep-meep-'s along♫♪ lol :goofy:

OK, thanks. Didn't think about the water. Nice job!

Kanadian Ken, Why do you keep the passenger grab bars?

Weld you're side stand yourself... Since I'm unable to start a new topic, here goes the next step I did; 'Shorten the side stand'... I removed the side stand, cleaned it up real good and then started the modification. First I cut off the lower end, then cut off a few mm the same way the first cut was done, whatever length desired. I cut off a full cm! Because the rear and the front dropped quite a bit. After the cutting is done, cleaned up the parts and grind a 45? angle to all sides, this is meant to fill up with the electrode, wich was stainless steel 316 in my case. Just welding two part together, without this angled gap, wouldn't be strong enough! The rest will be clear in the pictures. O yeah, use Loctite, or something else, to secure the bolts and nuts! Feel free to ask questions. ?. border='0' alt='user posted image' /> border='0' alt='user posted image' /> border='0' alt='user posted image' /> border='0' alt='user posted image' /> border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Just ad a bit of acid to get this effect, it's not importend but it shows the difference between the weld and the original steel side stand. border='0' alt='user posted image' /> finished border='0' alt='user posted image' /> border='0' alt='user posted image' /> ?.

Yes Rod, It was you who inspired me in the first please, if I remember correctly. I didn't have the chance to make such nice one's, mine are very crude, just a peace of tube and on that tube I welded something to fit the dip and the pin (sorry, english dictionary incomplete in my head ) It looks bad when not mounted, but once in place, it's hard to even notice the thing. btw, my ring's are 30mm high :o but the handle's are flush with the forks for maximum height, making the total drop on the forks about 20mm... hmm, memory overload...it IS originally 44mm , right? It measure's 64mm from the top of the forks to the plate now.