Member Contributer bmart Posted August 15, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted August 15, 2023 We have a community center? 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted August 15, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted August 15, 2023 Yeah, and you better head on back. You've got an advertised tire size vs actual tire size class to teach next. 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted August 15, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted August 15, 2023 "Where the rubber meets the road. Part Duex." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted August 16, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted August 16, 2023 On 8/12/2023 at 3:23 PM, Fastdruid said:  1) The slave cylinder (and the master cylinder etc). 2) The oil.   Manufactures warn owners that our gears can't shift smoothly if our clutch is part way engaged... check for unwanted clutch drag... Here are the steps how to check and eliminate unwanted clutch drag... 1 Place your bike on the center stand... 2 Start engine and establish a steady idle at 212ºF (operating temp)... 3 Squeeze in the clutch lever and shift into first gear... 4 Continue holding in the clutch lever and note if the rear wheel coast to stop or not... if it continues spinning that's unwanted drag... adjust... To adjust a cable equipped bike turn the small knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and test for clutch drag... if your bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system for bubbles... Ultimately you want the rear wheel to coast to a stop when the engine is idling and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdruid Posted August 19, 2023 Author Share Posted August 19, 2023 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted August 19, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted August 19, 2023 "track day" Â Killer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdruid Posted August 19, 2023 Author Share Posted August 19, 2023 So, track day. Didn't embarrass itself and I rode it a lot (because the track bike developed a misfire).  Didn't do anything to it over the two days other than check stuff and add fuel!  Something still isn't right with the clutch....but...it's not unusable. Still enough drive to hit 130-135 on the clock down the back straight & start finish straights at Cadwell Park. For context I've seen 140 there on a 1999 R6 and 138 on a 1997 CBR600F. With less clutch oddity/issues it would be quicker (and to be fair if it had more ground clearance and I could enter faster).  Pegs touch down early, unsure what touches down next and its a road bike not a track/race bike so full length hero blobs left on and treating them as the limit! Massive hanging off to avoid pegs down which resulted in a first of getting my knee down on it! 🤣  Just to set expectations here, it's always been a road bike, track/race bikes are for knee down (and I've done plenty of it) but on the VFR I've never ever even *tried* to get my knee down!  Brakes worked well, only pootling round in the intermediates but its such a stable platform and the suspension improvements have let me really use them to their best. Good enough on the brakes to embarrass a few much, much newer bikes though!  Need the longer shock before I try again though.      7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdruid Posted September 26, 2023 Author Share Posted September 26, 2023 On 8/15/2023 at 12:53 PM, Fastdruid said: With a trackday approaching I took off the centre stand, I was a little worried having never taken it off before that the pivots would be seized and snap. Thankfully (and having consulted the manual to make sure I know which was the RH and which the LH thread) they came off easily.  I knew the centre brace was looking somewhat er missing.   but the massive crack in the left leg is rather more of a concern!   I won't be sticking it straight back on, either a replacement if I can find a better one or I'll fix this one.     Rightio then. Firstly clean things up a bit.   Grind things back to so we get good penetration.   Then weld it back up.   Next up, lop out the rusted out section.   I didn't have exactly the same wall thickness tube to hand so I stuck some 3mm wall tube in the lathe and bored it down to ~2mm wall. Still thicker than original but close enough.  Then weld it back in.   Need to do some more cleaning up on it then I'll paint it and stick it back on.  1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted September 26, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted September 26, 2023 And then back to duty weighting the crab pot at the bottom of the bay. 😉 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdruid Posted September 26, 2023 Author Share Posted September 26, 2023 Just now, Captain 80s said: And then back to duty weighting the crab pot at the bottom of the bay. 😉   It probably won't stay on but at the very least I need to swap out the linkage and stick a longer shock in. For that the centre stand while not totally essential is really, really handy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted September 26, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted September 26, 2023 18 minutes ago, Fastdruid said:   It probably won't stay on but at the very least I need to swap out the linkage and stick a longer shock in. For that the centre stand while not totally essential is really, really handy!  Agreed. Plus it can sit with the rear apart up against a wall and/or off to the side while things get prepped/refurbished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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