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Tyy

What can you tell me about my VF500?

62 posts in this topic

Interesting, so the '86 engine will work on my '84 without modification? What differences would a later engine have?

 

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Google is your friend. 

Loads of small but significant differences but it as far as I know, an 86 engine will fit in a 84/85 frame. It better, because I will be trying it this summer.

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Out in the shed right now having issues with my throttle cables. The snap when I release is nowhere near as fast as it want it. Also something really dangerous is afoot. When I turn full lock to the right the throttle sticks. This is screaming disaster at me. I think it may have something to do with where the cables are routed now. I put mine in between the forks and past the right hand side of the steering neck. I don't know if they are getting pinched or something. Does anyone have a close up picture of where youve routed your cables?

 

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1 hour ago, Tyy said:

Out in the shed right now having issues with my throttle cables. The snap when I release is nowhere near as fast as it want it. Also something really dangerous is afoot. When I turn full lock to the right the throttle sticks. This is screaming disaster at me. I think it may have something to do with where the cables are routed now. I put mine in between the forks and past the right hand side of the steering neck. I don't know if they are getting pinched or something. Does anyone have a close up picture of where youve routed your cables?

 

 

You probably just need to add some slack using the adjuster on one of the cables right near the right switch assy.  The adjuster is 8mm with a 10mm lock nut.  Adjust to where the the throttle will still return at full lock both directions.

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I found that out when I was half way through tearing it apart to oil the cables. I also learned to keep tension on the cables when they are out of the tube. One of my cables went too far slack an came out of the carb. I decided I could put it back on without removing the carburetor, which turned out to be very hard. With one hand pulling the throttle open, another using improvised chop-sticks, and a screw driver in my teeth. I managed to put it back. In hind sight, I would have exerted a lot less effort removing the carbs. Never the less I feel like I have achieved something... I will accept my trophy of stubbornness now.

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participation-trophies-funny-horses-rear-3.gif

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I got the bike off of my makeshift motorcycle lift today. I ought to know before I choose what to do next, if you can remove the rear cylinder head without taking the engine out. If I can indeed do that, it would save me an enormous amount of time and effort. I'd like to hear from somebody who has possibly tried this.

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Send pm to The Dutchy if he does not chime in today :-)

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If you can get the collector box off, taking the engine out is very easy on the 500. The extra access it gives is invaluable IME.

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*IF* you get it off yes....   :-)

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Hmm... I will test how securely my Henkel pipe is attached in case I do need to remove the whole engine. Actually yeah I need to clean that thing anyways. Just a side note; what have you guys used for surface rust? I bought CLR Metal Cleaner.

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As far as i know, you can´t get the rear head removed with the engine in the frame..

 

Allthough the 500 does have bolts on the outer corners of the cilinderhead, instead of studs like the VF750 and VF1000, the timing chain guides  cause trouble. You can´t raise the head far enough to clear these guides..

 

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