Member Contributer V-FORE Posted August 2, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted August 2, 2014 It seems I am having an issue with my '94 105k 3rd R/R...as I was riding a few weeks ago I noticed the voltage dropping(when hot) and pulled the headlight fuse & kept riding... replaced the battery & that seemed to fix things. Last week on the PNW Oregon Trail ride I seemed to be having the same issue when hot, my voltage would drop, pulled the headlight fuse and she would go anywhere form 15.2 (cold) to 12.8 volts when hot. My thinking is Stator, I am going to check output voltages today cold/hot.I will post my findings later, just wanted to double check my thinking with those who know more than I (which is pretty much everyone ) I have two used low mileage stators here in the garage to change out if my findings say its needed, also have a spare R/R.... Thanks in advance Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted August 2, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted August 2, 2014 Yeah when the stator windings begin to short when hot your voltage will drop. The bad part is the current output will rise, and that is what fries R/Rs & batteries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V-FORE Posted August 2, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 2, 2014 The numbers as of now, I can't find my sheet from the last time I checked but my memory recalls higher AC voltage from the stator test voltage at bat key off 13.08 13.6 @1100rpm 14.4@2500 stator test continuity at all 3 nothing to ground running 14.4-16V at idle (a-b, a-c,b-c) 54-54V at 5k (a-b, a-c,b-c) bike was warmed up (not overly about 3/4 on the gauge warm as it was when I have been while riding very spirited) seems a little low to me, sing it should be 15-20@ idle & 50-80V @5k Well since I have her sides off I might as well change her stator.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Lorne Posted August 2, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted August 2, 2014 *enter broken record mode - again* Check all the connectors on the charging circuit: the 3-pin between the stator & reg/rec, all the wiring on the starter relay, the battery terminals, and the main ground connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V-FORE Posted August 2, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 2, 2014 *enter broken record mode - again* Check all the connectors on the charging circuit: the 3-pin between the stator & reg/rec, all the wiring on the starter relay, the battery terminals, and the main ground connection. All conections good, after trying two different stators, results about the same....stator's good, ac voltage good, so that narrows it down to R/R. so I have ordered the upgrade kit to the 5th gen R/R from Wiremybike so I am confident that will solve my issues..... so the next 105k s/b uneventful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V-FORE Posted August 3, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 3, 2014 Can anyone tell me how to perform the following operation? What I can't figure out is the placement of the Ammeter probes on picture 3 shows the Starter relay as described on picture 1, I see the negative attached to the negative post of the starter relay I can't figure out where the positve connects to?? in picture 1 it looks as though it is connected to the bottom red wire on the bottom left picture 2 is no better but at least picture 2 has the charging current notated, on picture 1 it says look in table 1 but it is not listed on table 1??? I have tried what they show and it is not working unless the meter I am using to measure DC Volts is not working.... I guess I need to find an ammeter??? or I am a moron..... Any ideas?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Polarbear Posted August 3, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted August 3, 2014 Sorry to hear you are having issues V-Fore! But it means that you are riding her, and that is good. C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V-FORE Posted August 3, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 3, 2014 no real problems, just general maintenance, just making sure that Vic Van??? this year has no surprises for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted August 3, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted August 3, 2014 PM sent... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobikie Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 I think what you are trying to do is measure the current flowing from the alternator to the battery. I also can't see from their diagram where their leads connect. However the method is to remove the fuse - as this normally carries the current to the battery - and you connect the ammeter where the fuse was. So the +ve lead from the ammeter goes to the battery end of the fuse holder ( they give a reason for not connecting directly to the battery), and the -ve end goes to alternator end of the fuse holder.....in a GEN 3 this is R/W. You do need an ammeter capable of carrying the expected current which is 9 amps...... I would be using a 20 amp ammeter......multimeters generally can't carry this much current so you are looking at using a specialised ammeter. I suspect that there is some confusion in the translation as the manual says always turn the ignition off when conducting the test. This of course is not possible as the motor has to run to conduct the test. I presume they mean "always turn the ignition off when connecting the ammeter". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 for those older models, you may be right on spec or average Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V-FORE Posted August 17, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 17, 2014 Thanks to all for the input! I received the correct harness from WIremybike, great service! and have installed the 5th gen R/R and now have 14.5v at 2k & up with the fan on! so now I will be good for the next 105k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squidzilla Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Did you install the VFR ness? Is that what you bought from wiremybike? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 hello there, could someone shed some light on this for me. two times ive had to bring my bike back on a recovery lorry. the problem is the yellow block with loads of green and silver wires going in it. you see in the picture. it is on the front light loom just after the big blue connector and grey connector that joins this light loom to the main loom. i've ordered a replacement loom. but just want to know what it does(apart from cut power to bike and give me an electrical buzzing sound) ive tried looking at the haynes wiring diagram but i can't figure it out. the bike is a 2003 800 vtec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V-FORE Posted August 17, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 17, 2014 Did you install the VFR ness? Is that what you bought from wiremybike? yes, I installed the Conversion Harness to use 98-99 R/R, I had the VFR ness for the 4th gen on my bike, if someone needs one without the other goodies wiremybike provides its available for a six pack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squidzilla Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 Did you install the VFR ness? Is that what you bought from wiremybike? yes, I installed the Conversion Harness to use 98-99 R/R, I had the VFR ness for the 4th gen on my bike, if someone needs one without the other goodies wiremybike provides its available for a six pack I am curious why get the one for the 5th gen? Is it because a 5thn gen r/r or easier to get? I see they have one for an R1 r/r as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V-FORE Posted August 18, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 18, 2014 from wiremybike "1998-1999 Regulator RectifierThis Regulator/Rectifier has been upgraded from previous offerings and from the OEM design. The new version now offers 50A capacity, and a large casting/better cooling design. This R/R features MOSFET technology like the popular FHA012AA from the Yamaha R1. It is made by Ricks Motorsport Electrics, arguably the best Honda Aftermarket supplier I have found. The unit carries a 1 year warranty from time of order." newer model, better design and for about the same price I figured this was my better option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted August 18, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted August 18, 2014 hello there, could someone shed some light on this for me. two times ive had to bring my bike back on a recovery lorry. the problem is the yellow block with loads of green and silver wires going in it. you see in the picture. it is on the front light loom just after the big blue connector and grey connector that joins this light loom to the main loom. i've ordered a replacement loom. but just want to know what it does(apart from cut power to bike and give me an electrical buzzing sound) ive tried looking at the haynes wiring diagram but i can't figure it out. the bike is a 2003 800 vtec That is a grounding block. There is another one back by the R/R connectors. Good idea to check those for corrosion whenever you have access. Bad grounds can cause all sorts of bizarre problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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