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  • Frustrated with new to me 1993 VFR750 - Won't run when warm


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Found 218 results

  1. I’m contemplating using H4 headlight bulbs in my 1998 VFR800. I see from reading the forums that some have fitted H4 bulbs by trimming the tabs of the standard H4 bulb to fit Honda’s oddball headlight bulb socket. My concern is for the wires, connectors, and switches in the headlight circuit. A standard H4 is rated at 60W/55W, while Honda’s VFR bulb is rated at 45W/45W. A standard H4 will pull 33% or 22% more current, depending on whether it’s in high beam or low beam. For those that fitted standard H4 bulbs, especially in hot climates, have you had any issue with melting harnesses? Thanks. - Walt
  2. springtime on Beacon Hill

    From the album my VFRs

    Beacon Hill park with Washington State's Olympic Peninsula in the background on an early spring day.

    © © Lorne Black

  3. Almost exactly 20 years ago I traded my VTR1000F for a spanking new VFR800. Both were first year models, and the first ones to arrive at my local shop. Over the years I've gone back and forth between VFRs and VTRs. It may be heresy to say so but my perfect bike would be a 5th/6th gen VFR with a VTR1000 motor. First pic is trade-in day, second is atop Sonora Pass, Cal., en route to the 1998 WSB races at Laguna Seca.
  4. trade-in time

    From the album my VFRs

    Feb. 1998: I traded my VTR1000F for a VFR800, but not before having the wheels painted a proper colour.

    © Lorne Black

  5. Sonora Pass - July 1998

    From the album my trips

    Atop Sonora Pass en route to the 1998 WSB races at Laguna Seca, California.

    © Lorne Black

  6. 2014 Lower Cowl (fairing)

    Hello, Been lurking on the site for a few months and appreciate everyone’s input on our machines. I dropped my bike in my driveway and need to replace the left lower cowl (white) but can’t seem to fine replacement parts online. Any help? TIA
  7. Quite a number of years ago, I wrote up an install thread for a shock I purchased from Jamie at Daugherty Motorsports. Unfortunately, when the site went down and was subsequently rebuilt, this thread had disappeared. I know a few people have asked me in the past if I could re-enter the thread and re-post the photos. Since I had suffered a computer crash of my own and upgraded to a new machine, I had to first locate the photos and then copy them to my new machine, but as usual, LIFE got in the way. For those who have asked me to re-post the thread, "Here ya GO." I know it took a while and I apologize. When I originally posted this thread I did so as a "GUIDE" to those, like me, who had never done anything like this before and as a result, I HAVE done a few things that were likely NOT required during the install procedure, but I did so to make MY life easier. I've had numerous people in the past say things like, "You didn't have to remove _________", or "Do not remove this part as its totally not required". I was also attempting to chase down an electrical gremlin when I performed this install so as an example I was looking for any tell tale signs of harness tampering and also wanted to check the condition of said harness, connections, and I was thoroughly cleaning the entire area as best as possible. Hence I removed the fender tray and this seems to have been the largest point of contention. I'm sure not everyone will agree with the way I did the install, and I'm sure there are other ways, but at the time, there were no other install threads for me to follow and the photos and instructions on the Factory Service manual were helpful, but mentioned nothing about the fact that, lets face it, you're not putting a stock shock back in and it was physically a different size and shape. Hence I documented the install, and took some photos along the way, and MOST IMPORTANTLY I had the time spent with my son, which above all else, was the best THING about the whole procedure. The absolute best part of this whole process was to spend some quality time with my son, and that, to me was worth taking the WHOLE back of the bike apart if necessary. Though there were a LOT of questions and the time spent doing this job was far greater than if I had done it on my own, I would NEVER, EVER have considered not letting him watch and ask as many questions as necessary to satiate his curiosity. HERE WE GO First, a bit of background might be in order. Having sold my beloved 97 VFR750 about 5 years ago, just before my son was born, I had wanted to some day replace the bike when he got older. I knew with a new baby in the house that the poor old girl would spend many a lonely day covered up in the garage unable to see the sun. No way to treat a motorcycle in my opinion. Since one of the guys that I worked with wanted to purchase the bike, I signed the papers and let her go to a new owner. Thankfully I got to see the old bike regularly, and the itch to get a new one was always lurking. About three years ago, I found a 2000 VFR800 sitting in the showroom of one of the car dealerships I do work for (I do Paintless Dent Repair for a living) and my wife said I should buy the bike. The paint was pitted, the wheels had numerous scratches from a disc lock, the fairings were scratched from a couple of garage mishaps (vertical scratches in the lower cowls which indicated to me that the bike had tipped over on both sides at some point) but the price was too high for the condition of the motorcycle. The general manager of the dealership had seen my 97 VFR and had said that I would regret giving her up (he was a fellow biker) and knowing I would lust after the 2000 VFR he started asking me when I would take it home. Every time I walked in to the dealer he would ask if I wanted the VFR and with a price near $6000 at first the cost was too rich for my blood. Finally, after sitting in the showroom for a little more than a year the manager said, “Bill, make me an offer on the bike, I gotta get her out of here.” Over time the price had dropped to $3950 and not even thinking he would say yes, I looked at the manager and said “All I can afford to give you is $2000.” To my amazement, he told me to get her out his showroom and that he was glad the VFR had found a good home. I signed the papers, handed over the cash, donned my helmet and rode the bike two blocks to my shop. Since it was in November and likely to snow any day, the first ride would have to wait. For what seemed like an eternity of cleaning, I spent the winter taking care of the cosmetic issues. I had the wheels stripped and powder coated, painted the lower cowls to get rid of the scratches and spent about 8 hours wet sanding and polishing the rest of the paint to get rid of what was years of neglect. The previous owner had left a copy of all the maintenance receipts for the bike with the dealer and after looking through them all, I found that the bike had been very well maintained and all the suggested services had been completed by various Honda Motorcycle dealers, including the valve adjusts. When the previous owner had traded the bike on a car, he had told the dealer that even though he had kept up on the mechanical work, he was not one to clean the bike. He neither had the time or inclination to keep her spotless (he did spray her off once in a while he admitted) and nor did he have the skills. After 61,000 km’s (35,000 miles) of use the bike was showing its age, but it ran like brand new. When spring finally dawned and the street sweepers had been out I decided to take the old girl (now gleaming like a new motorcycle) for a ride. With some new rubber, some cosmetic work and a lot of blood, sweat and wax, she was ready for the road. At least that is what I thought. To my dismay, I discovered that the back end was sadly in need of some attention. My first season with the 2000 VFR was good but the riding was rare because of family and the new toddler in the house, and the revelation that I was going to be a dad once again. I spent a lot of time the next winter trying to decide what to do about the rear shock. The rear shock on my 97 had been re-built but it never really felt that much better in my opinion and I was not sure if I wanted to go through that process again. After spending about three months unable to ride my 97 while the shock was missing, and then not noticing a huge difference once I got it back, well, I was not impressed. A friend told me check out VFR World and I came across the name Jamie Daugherty. After reading several posts and articles about his suspension tuning abilities, I decided that I would again try getting a shock rebuilt. The difference was, this time, Jamie, unlike the last guy I used, was going to build me a donor shock from a CBR929 so that I could ride my bike until the new one showed up. I was so amazed with the difference the shock made to the rideability of the bike that I wanted to do a “HOW TO” write up on the installation. I know a number of people on this site are aware of Jamie Daugherty and probably equally aware of how to take their bikes completely apart and put them back together. This article is for the average person like me, who has never attempted a project of this kind and therefore I have included a lot of pictures and a lot of, shall we say, instructions. My hope is that it will prove useful to at least one other person. The overall process is not that hard, but it does take some time. I think the whole process for me took about six hours from start to finish, over a span of two days. I am quite used to taking things apart when doing my day job, but that is usually limited to door panels and other parts of car interiors. Having owned about 10 different motorcycles (including an 85 VF1000F, a 97 VFR750F and my current 2000 VFR800) I am also no stranger to regular maintenance like oil and coolant changes. Generally I leave major mechanical work up to the pros, but I decided to tackle this project on my own since, heh, let’s face it, there are only four bolts to undo RIGHT???? WELL YOU HAVE KEPT WITH ME THIS LONG SO HERE WE GO, BACK TO THE TOPIC OF THE CBR929 SHOCK UPGRADE. First, I have to say thanks to Joey_Dude for his write up on how to do this upgrade, since it was after reading his HOW To that I decided to give this whole project a try. Not wanting to disconnect the fuel injection hoses from the tank, I decided to see if it could be done without removing the tank. After clearing some space around the bike and putting the bike on the center stand, the first things to come off are the seat, passenger grab handles, and the rear cowl. Next off is the muffler and the right side foot peg bracket. I chose to remove the muffler and foot peg bracket at one time in order to make it easier to re-assemble later. Loosen the muffler strap connector, undo the bolts on the foot peg bracket and twist the whole assembly out and back to remove. You could probably do it the same way with the stock exhaust but it might be easier to do each separately if you have the stock exhaust. Now it is time to remove the rear tire and the chain guard. Don't forget the two plastic screw clips on the back side of the chain guard The top bolt for the rear shock assembly is under the two rubber flaps at the rear of the fuel tank. I removed the two bolts at the front of the tank and the two bolts that secure the tank to the pivot clamp at the rear of the tank. I then placed a couple of 2x4 pieces on edge under the rear of the tank to support it while I removed the pivot clamp. This allows you to move the two rubber flaps. The top one you can push forward and tuck it under the tank edge, and the big lower one that stretches over the battery box area can be removed and set aside. You should now be able to see the nut that secures the top of the shock bracket to the frame spar, and the bolt that goes through the bracket and the top of the shock assembly. Since the CBR929 shock has a larger spring and a remote reservoir I thought that removing the fender tray would make the installation of the new shock a lot easier because it gives you a LOT more room to work with and it also allows a better view of the whole swing arm area. Removing the fender tray was certainly a bit of a pain to manoeuvre out of the frame but the ease with which the new rear shock went in certainly made it worth the extra effort. It also gave me the chance to take a closer look at the wiring harness, connectors, fuse blocks, and other areas around the rear suspension that were hard to see before. To remove the rear fender tray, disconnect and remove the battery. Next, to remove the battery box cover lid there are a couple of fuse blocks attached to the lid. They are easily removed by inserting a flat head screwdriver underneath and gently twisting to release the push clip underneath. With the clip released, slide the fuse blocks up toward the top of the lid. By gently squeezing the sides of the lid you can release the plastic pins that hold the lid in place and you can remove it. Once the lid is removed you can also undo the 5mm allen head screw that secures the rear brake lines to the under side of the fender tray. Moving to the rear of the fender tray, remove the lid covering the CDI box. This should give you enough room to gently remove the CDI box and manoeuvre it out and then place it on top of the seat frame latch. This is where I left the box until I was finished and it rested there quite securely. Remove the two bolts at the rear of the fender tray that attach it to the seat frame and allow it to drop down a bit. The fender will probably move down about an inch or so but not much. You will also need to remove the bolt that secures the rear brake fluid reservoir to the fender tray as well. The reservoir will just sit there and not move, so not to worry. The front of the fender tray has a couple of tabs on it that the main fuse block (left side) and another fuse block on the right side slide on. By pulling them up they should both come off. Once all the bolts and screws are removed, gently push up on the front of the fender under the battery box to release the plastic clips that go around the round metal frame tube. Now gently squeeze the middle of the fender tray at the bottom and lower it down out of the seat frame. You will have to pivot the back down a bit while pushing the front up to clear the frame spar under the battery box. Having an extra pair of hands to help you manoeuvre wires, connectors, and the fender tray out would be a definite asset. Pay close attention to where and how the wiring harness and connectors are routed around the clips and on the front of the fender tray. It helps to have a camera for this since a picture will help you get everything back together the right way later. Getting the fender over the spar at the front of the battery will require a little bit of bending of tabs and some work to get the harness out but with a little perseverance (and possibly some colourful language) the fender tray will come out. BE CAREFUL OF YOUR LANGUAGE DURING THIS STAGE AS IF YOU'RE LIKE ME, THE SWEAR JAR WAS ENSURING MY SON'S FUTURE EDUCATION WOULD BE FULLY FUNDED BY HIS NEXT BIRTHDAY. NOW to remove the old rear shock. Remove the bolt that goes through the top of the shock assembly. You may have to push down a bit on the wiring harness in order to pull the bolt out all the way since it is a pretty tight fit. Time for the lower shock mount. Remove the bolts from the lower shock arm plates. Note the orientation of the plates when you remove them so that they go back on the same way. With the shock assembly now completely loose, you should be able to pull the top of the shock back toward the rear of the bike, to the side, and out of the swingarm over the chain. You can see the difference in the size and shape of the old shock (red) and the CBR929 (blue) upgrade shock from Jamie Daugherty. This is where removing the fender tray becomes perfectly clear. Drop the CBR929 shock down in to the hole in the swing arm. Rotate the shock assembly clockwise about 90 degrees and push the top of the shock forward, behind and in front of the upper shock mounting bracket. The shock should now be sitting with the reservoir on the front side of the shock toward the front of the bike. Now pull the shock back and in to the upper shock mount bracket and re-insert the bolt through the bracket and the upper shock mounting hole. Another good reason to remove the fender tray is so that you can see if you have any clearance issues with the new shock assembly. When I went to install the shock in the upper shock bracket I discovered that my wiring harness on the left side of the bike was being pinched by the edge of the reservoir on the new shock. If I had not removed the fender tray I would not have been able to see how badly the harness was being pinched. A friend of mine who works at a local auto body shop looked at the shock for me and suggested that I cut a notch in the lip of the reservoir so that it would not interfere with the wiring harness. I also wrapped a couple extra layers around the harness where it passes the shock reservoir lip, just to be sure. I was also careful to make sure that the edge of the lip where I cut the notch was filed smooth with no sharp edges. Though this may not be a problem with every bike (my bike is a 2000 VFR by the way), but I thought that the clearance issue I discovered was worth mentioning, just in case someone else runs in to the same problem. My friend at the body shop used to race motorcycles professionally and I wanted to check with him first before we notched the lip on the reservoir and he assured me that the notch would not affect the shock reservoir. Now just reverse the whole procedure and put the bike back together and go for a ride. And Don't forget to check the factory torque specs in the manual when you put the whole thing back together. THERE ARE A FEW THINGS I LEARNED ALONG THE WAY DURING THIS PARTICULAR BIKE MODIFICATION. 1. When performing ANY task with your 5 year old watching, BE PREPARED for a HUGE barage of questions that request you to explain absolutely EVERYTHING you are doing, WHY, and HOW it will effect the ENTIRE process. 2. When performing ANY task with your 5 year old watching, BE PREPARED to spend a LOT more time completing said task. 3, When performing ANY task with your 5 year old watching, ENJOY the time spent as it may be your last, as these times will never come again, and you owe it to yourself to spend that quality time with them. 4. In the grand scheme of things, I did not NEED to remove the fender tray but IMHO it provided extra room for my hands, increased the ability to see what I was doing, and it generally made my life EASIER. Also, I didn't have to notch the edge of the remote reservoir on the CBR929 shock, but the amount of clearance I had between the two made me nervous about possible chafing so I notched it to make ME feel better. Did it NEED to be done, "No", but did it put my mind at ease, "YES". Hence the notch. FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE NEW SHOCK My initial impression of the shock upgrade was that it made a world of difference. I took the bike for about a 50 mile ride after I out the bike back together and could not believe how much better the bike felt. The handling is now much more precise and the bike feels far more stable. Even just sitting on the bike feels better since the bike does not sag as much under my weight. I would highly recommend this upgrade and certainly recommend Jamie Daugherty’s services to anyone that would like a suspension upgrade for their VFR. You can get in touch with Jamie on this site by sending him a Private Message or you can email him at jamie@daughertymotorsports.com
  8. Hello and Thank you

    Hello, So this is a big thank you and shout out to all members here that I have borrowed, copied and ripped off to complete my naked, streetfighting, cafe racer, black VFR800. In particular, paladinread, vfrAustin, sebspeed, apexandy, keef and zefarton44, whose bike was the inspiration for mine. I bought a new VFR800 in 1999, I was once a very early member of this site to, which I still have with 120k on it. My old bike on the left, unwashed after riding it home from Darwin to Sydney, looks more tired than the tired new bike prior to streefighterification. After seeing some of the naked streetfighters here and over at Custom Fighters, I decided I wanted one, and so picked up a tired Euro import 1999 VFR 800, which needed some love and in red to match my original bike and also as a bonus score some spare parts, quite a nice price point too when you wait eighteen years. It has a complete CBR 929 front end, even has the repsol front guard and red rim sticker, CBR 929 rear shock, apexandy's Ducati Monster seat, I tried to make the sub frame as small as I could with the standard battery squeezed in and ECU, made a chain guard, paladinread's SV 650 front radiator, sebspeeds oil cooler, rear motorcross master and brake line in swingarm, wrapped the headers, got a bit carried away with immitation carbon vinyl wrap, looks good at the moment, lowered the gearing, ebay chinese LED indicators, tail light, headlight, which is junk and starting to melt, a koso copy guage, cheap but pain to get working and some of keef's custom red knee cut outs, it's a plasti dip thing. There is still a couple of things I'd like to tidy up, wiring loom, paint, rear disc is shot, suspension sorted, would like the sound of my staintune but like the look of the shorty, it's uncomfortable, impractical, unreliable, too loud, obnoxious and I love it, the opposite to my old bike which is exactly what I was hoping to achieve. Once again many thanks to those that have gone before me, I couldn't of done it without you.
  9. Hi all, This has long been my go-to VFR resource. I'm the proud owner of my third 5th gen pearl shining yellow VFR800FiX (and there can only be a handful in all of Ireland!). With the exception of an enjoyable foray into Kawasaki ownership with a 2005 ZX6R, I've been served exclusively by VFR's. Anywho, hoping you good folks here can help me with a query I have. The bike is an X model (confirmed with the underseat sticker, so 99 model year), is 2001 registered (not too unusual I guess, slow moving dealer stock?), and has the original catalytic converter stickers on it's bodywork (the units themselves not being present as it has a full stainless system with a hi level carbon can). It was my understanding that only later model VFR800's had a cat, from at least the Y model on, am I right? It has the manual choke/fast idle lever. This nagging doubt in my mind has me thinking of all sorts of potential horror stories - to my reasonably well trained eye it's not a Frankenstein's monster of a bike, previously crashed or cobbled together, it's in fantastic condition and rides brilliantly, doesn't have suspiciously low mileage, etc. Pic shows the stickers on the tail section. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  10. Close Encounters

    From the album Slowbird

  11. I have always wanted to ride Beartooth Pass/hwy, Going to the Sun road, Independence Pass and many other roads along and around those area. I was going to go last year but my 4th gen gotten written off and my replacement VFR (My current 5th gen) was untested. Good thing I didn't attempt a long trip with it as I had to replace the Stator and R/R eventually. After some planning and some modifications to the bike (helibars, windscreen, Sargent seat, luggage racks) I embarked on this quite distant journey from my home in Toronto, Ontario. The plan was about 14 days but due to some Forest fires would end up being 11 days and just under 8,000kms/5,000miles. DAY 1: Toronto, Ontario to Ottawa, Illinois I left "bright" and early at 6am. I packed the VFR the night before. Luggage was a Givi 46L top box and 2x 22L side hard-bags. I strapped a tank bag to the pillion seat with emergency tools, tire repair kit etc etc. Regular Tank bag infront of me with miscellaneous stuff. Fully loaded the bike would rock backwards onto the rear tire when on the centerstand. I had to remove the top box whenever I wanted to lube the chain. lol First couple hours the Bike felt a bit "off", laden down with all that luggage but I got used to it. I encountered some light rain when it was time for my first fill up so I put on a rain jacket. I made it to my crossing into the U.S. without delay and without getting very wet. I decided to take a tiny ferry across to the States from Walpole Island, Ontario to Algonac, Michigan. It was an odd little ferry but real quick and easy. Cost me $5. The deck was wet and I just sat on the bike and held the brake during the crossing. On the American side there's a tiny little guard house for the US border. They asked a couple standard questions and I was on my way. It was on and off rain showers and I changed my route westward to get around the worst of it, but the rain gear stayed on until west of Ann Arbor, MI. The old PR3's did their job too. I made some stops here and there but I knew (and planned) that Day 1 was gonna be hard slabbing so I kept on. Some of the last legs of I-80 was a parking lot and I couldn't figure out how to use the Detour function on my new-to-me GPS. I eventually got to my stay for the night. An AirBnB in Ottawa, Il. Day 1 aprox 978kms (608 miles)
  12. I guess there was a guy taking photos when I was out on the track at the Ridge motorsports park
  13. Just a couple of rowdy folks enjoying an outing.
  14. Stator for a 2002 model VFR800

    I’m having a lot of problems with my charging system on my 2002 VFR800 lately, and after running the diagnostics, (and replacing other parts) it looks like I need a new stator. Honda’s part catalogue, lists a stator with part number 31120-MCW-D01 for the 2002 VFR800. (I even used the VIN of my bike to find the correct part number). This stator has an external diameter of 114 mm, an internal diameter of 40 mm and the center of the stator (where it is screwed onto the engine cover) has a thickness of 20mm. However, if I measure the Stator that I have removed from my 2002 VFR800, I have a part with an external diameter of 108 mm. The internal diameter is the same with 40 mm, but the center of the stator has a thickness of 25mm. Does anyone here have any idea what kind of stator I might need? Are there any other part numbers for a 2002 Stator? Could it be that, even though I have a 2002 model, it is fitted with a 2001 Stator? Just guessing here…
  15. Guys, I recently bought a 5th gen RC46 VFR800. The bike's first registration was in 2000, but the bike was manufactured in 1999. How can I tell if it's a later or an earlier model? I'm asking, because frankly I prefer the earlier one - AFAIK the later one has a catalytic converter and oxygen sensors, stuff I can really do without.
  16. From the album my VFRs

    This totem is the Salish Bear pole at the summit of the Malahat highway near Victoria BC. It was carved in celebration of the 1966 centennary of the merger of colonies of Vancouver Island and British Columbia. The elevation is a modest 356 metres, or 1157 feet, above Saanich Inlet which can just be spied in the background.

    © Lorne Black

  17. Malahat lookout

    From the album my VFRs

    View from the Malahat viewpoint just north of Victoria, BC, in the summer of 1998. Sadly, the totem pole has lost its ouster of late.

    © Lorne Black

  18. Carbon Fiber Dash

    From the album My 03 VFR

    New Carbon Fiber dash thanks to http://www.motocomposites.com/
  19. S3 Discs

    From the album My 03 VFR

    New Discs and a Spot of paint does wonders :)
  20. My Lil Red Rocket

    From the album My 03 VFR

  21. SpruceKnob.JPG

    From the album SailorJack

  22. Xena 1.jpeg

    From the album Xena

    Her first picture. Fresh out the showroom!
  23. Motor city

    From the album Xena

  24. After completing the cannonball

    From the album Xena

  25. At Square one.jpeg

    From the album Xena

    Love dedicated motorcycle parking

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