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Hello everyone, Fairly new to the forum as I have owned my VFR less than a year, but I am looking for some help with a no start issue. I took it on a trip out to Colorado in the second week of June. Trip was 3400 miles in total and it ran great the whole trip. About a week after I got home I washed it up good in the driveway. Bike started fine in the driveway after it was washed and I rode it back into the garage. 5 days later I wen to fire it up and it cranks over, but doesn't start. Thought the battery might be dead so I charged it up, but still a no go. I haven't had much time to dig into it since, but I plan to get after it next week and I'm looking for some suggestions on what to look at first? Are there any known causes for a sudden no start? Could something have gotten wet when it was washed? When I turn the key to ignition, the dash lights all come on and I can hear the fuel pump priming. The engine turns over smooth, just doesn't start. Thanks for any help in advance.

Selling my 1994 VFR750. Has not run in 10 years, ran perfectly when parked. Still covered in barn fresh dust. Long story short, I was a motorcycle mechanic for 25 years, and have lost interest. Time to sell. Full Thurn Motorsport fairings - Upper, mids with integrated lowers, and the thinner tail section and integrated taillights (both red running and brake, either side blinks orange for turns. Stock exhaust with Wolfe high mount muffler, clean stock muffler included Full Micron system pictured - the can of the muffler has been flipped so the brand name plate faces in. Spare engine, carbs, airbox, cooling system, electrical system, cracked gauges, etc. (installed set of carbs has jet kit, spare is all stock) Has nice levers and windshield and VFR800 mirrors without the boots Paint/fairings are excellent aside from a chip on the corner of the rear seat cover. No rash, no broken, no cracks. Comes with the passenger handles 40k miles on the bike, and also 40k miles on the spare parts. This bike was obsessively maintained while its was in use. Chain lubed daily, fluids every year, waxed monthly, all that. I have tons of receipts from when I built this about 15 years ago, worked at a Honda shop where i had access to parts at cost and managed to collect all the spare parts. I would love to sell this as a lot to a VFR enthusiast, there is a very nice motorcycle under that dust and the spare parts alone are worth quite a bit. The fairings alone were thousands before the paint. Located in southern coastal Maine. Lets see if there is any interest at $3000 for everything, I'm open to offers or suggestions or whatever.

On my way to work this morning my 1992 vfr750 was running just great...then as I'm coming to a stop light, slowing down, applying brakes and down shifting the engine just dies. Now I have no dash lights. A jumper pack on the battery wont even get any lights to come on. Also tried jump starting it with no luck. Any help would be greatly appriciated as my beloved bike is dead on the side of the road Thanks

Hey guys, looking for some help here. My 2003 VFR 800 VTEC is leaking out of the valve cover seals, I've ordered seals for the covers, 8 bolts and for the coils. The maintenance manual calls for a 'sealant' in the little semi-circle points between the gasket and the head, just wondering what everyone recommends? Thanks.

Hello All, Just struck a deal to buy a 15k mile VFR800 1998 engine for my old 5th Gen and toying with the idea of working the head a bit before spooning it into the frame. Was thinking about maybe polishing the ports in the head and recutting valve seats. Maybe even harder valve springs or something. I know now it will never be an R1 or Hayabusa but the engine will be out and these bits easy to access (famous last words!). Would you you guys just lob the “new” engine in or would you work it over a bit first? Also, any idea what this sort of work might cost and a good recommendation in England? Ideally in the Midlands. Bike is going to be a weekend toy with maybe two trips to the track per year. Got Rapid Bike Racing fuel controller to go on along with some airbox mods (ala Mohawk, Keef, OZVFR and CandyRed). Not really sure sure where to go with this just now... What would you do? Stray

Hello VFRD! I am new to riding and got a VFR800 8th generation from 2014 as second motorcycle. I bought it used with 5000 km 2 months ago and I have ridden it 6000 km with it in this time frame. The maintenance is soon due, at 12000 km. I was planning on cleaning it and doing some minor maintenance, with the agreement of my local official Honda dealer / garage. However, on Saturday morning as I was firing it up to buy some of the tools I would need for the maintenance, I forgot to remove the disk lock on the front wheel, which broke a small part of the front fender. I consider this a non event but who knows. After assessing the damage (none that matters, or should matter), I tried to drive away and a loud rattling noise made me reconsider it. While I do not care so much about cosmetics, I do not want to risk any damage on the engine. The bike starts without an issue and keeps a constant normal idle rpm. The noise starts as soon as I open the throttle, with or without a gear engaged, with or without the clutch being engaged. I have removed the fairing to try to hear more precisely where the noise comes from and hoping I would see something loose. Now that the fairings are removed, I think the noise comes from the right side of the bike, around the front right cylinder. Looking on Internet, I understand this might be the front Cam Chain Tensioner being worn. This seems very early at 11000 km. Could anyone point me towards a potential culprit and how to verify the hypothesis? Should I just go to the dealer and not touch anything? I might be wrong so if you got suggestions do not take all of my rookie analysis as solid. I will try to post a video with the issue at hand during the day.

Hello guys, I'm pretty much new with the VFRs, I just purchase this bike for a really low price, the previous owner got pregnant and they needed the money, they were doing an stetical modification but I know there is some maintenance that need to be done. Now here comes the cherry of this cake... What you guys think it could be the sound of it? I heard people saying that is the camshaft, the valve caps that need calibration and other things... But I would like to hear your opinions. Thank you! :D Btw, this is a VFR 750 1990 and I hope to be the one conducting all the maintenance and repairs on it WhatsApp Video 2017-11-10 at 6.27.23 PM.mp4 WhatsApp Video 2017-11-10 at 6.27.19 PM.mp4 WhatsApp Video 2017-11-10 at 6.27.15 PM.mp4

Hi. So I am new too this group and this is my first post. Just wanted to tell you guys my experience with using manual cam chain tensioners. Any advice/help would be greatly appreciated. It all began when after riding my bike and getting it up to temp I stopped at a friends house and noticed a rattling from my engine. I thought maybe my chain was loose but I was not moving. After doing some research I found this site and quickly found out it was most likely may cam chain tensioner/s. I decided to go with the manual ones because the OEM ones tend to be faulty some times and i wanted to ensure my engine last for as long as financially possible. I was going to go with APE tensioners but switched over to PSR (Powerstands Racing) because they were in stock at MotoSport, a place I trust way more than Ebay. I was very impressed with the qualilty of this item and the effort taken to ensure top notch perfomance. It as neatly packaged and included the needed gasket, a key chain, and a PSR sticker. To set the stage for my endeavor I was working with a decent selection of tools and knowledge from past experiences with dirtbikes and what not. My garage not being the warmest place during New Engllands god awful winters was a steaming 33 degrees and my tools were about -4 according to my internal hand thermostat. The removal of the OEM ccts had to be the hardest part. It required removing the tank and airbox. I did not have enough time or knowledge to rip apart the throttle bodies just to get to the front one. With some finesse and muscle I was able to remove the front tensioner. After removal the PSR one was very easy to install and took minimal time. The adjustment bolt has a 14mm head and the mounting bolts are 10mm. After I installed it I torqued to the required hand tight spec and moved to the rear. The rear was 100x easier than the front, but by this time it was 12 am and I had work the following day. But I kept on cooking because I knew if I did not finish tonight I would never get it done till spring. After I installed both cct's with the help of a buddy and some monster it was time to adjust them. I had my buddy adjust the front tensioner as I adjusted the rear. Following other posts we loosened until cam chain noise and then tightened until noise went away but no further. In total it took me about 11 hours to change all my fluids and do the ccts. Minus a few breaks and mental cool downs. Plus my buddy didn't show up till 11:30. By 1 am ol' Smokey was back up and running with no cam chain noise just the sewing machine exhaust note. If you read up until this point I would like to just say Thank You and if you see anywhere I should improve or anything you think I did wrong please let me know down below. Thanks for reading and have a VFRful day.

Hello All, It has been said elsewhere on this forum that later generation lower engine mounts (or cushions) can be used to help fit aftermarket rear sets. Does anyone know what years will fit a 5th gen? I’ve been looking at the 8th gen ones on eBay but can’t quite decide if they are a match. Has anyone tried this before? Any insight welcome. Stray

Hello, I've had to replace my engine on my vfr1200 2010 manual model because of some unknown oiling issue that effected the crankshaft, pistons etc..as the garage removed the engine and I'm fitting the replacement I'm not sure on the routing of the overflow/ breather pipe from the coolant expansion tank. Can anyone help with some photos or other pictures please.

Hello all - I'm trying to get a quote for shipping a 2007 VFR800 engine and transmission. Before I take the bathroom scale out to the garage, I thought I'd check with the guys who would know how much this assembly weighs. I searched the 5th gen and 6th gen forums, and with google, but haven't been able to find an engine weight. RVFR recalled a past comparison between a CBR1000RR engine and a VFR800 engine that identified a VFR800 engine and transmission weight as around 154 pounds. I greatly appreciate his input, but if anyone has recent or accurate data on the weight of the VFR800 engine/transmission assembly, it would be great if you chimed in. Thanks, and cheers all.

I am hoping someone might be able to help me. I posted a while back that I changed my rear cam chain tensioner plunger and since re-installment the motor will not start. It turns over, the starter sounds normal but I will not light off. Electrical: I have checked the battery. I jumped it from a portable jump start pack just to make sure it wasn't the problem. The battery is giving good volt meter readings (about 13.2 unloaded, 12.4 loaded). I checked the fuses located in the front right fairing. I searched to see if I might have disconnected something accidentally but couldn't find a anything (there isn't anything over there). I put a timing light on the coil wire and was receiving a flash (even though my last attempt to re-verify didn't seem to give me a flash). All other electrical items seem to be working normally (neutral indicator, side stand cut out, etc.). Fuel: I removed the air cleaner and put fuel in the throttle bodies. Nothing. When I attempt to start eventually the tailpipes smell of fuel. When attempting to start, if I hold the throttle open about 1/2-3/4 the motor does seem to stumble a little but it still does not light off. I am truly mystified as the bike was running fine prior to the work on the plunger being done. Removing the plunger and replacing it with a new one is all I did. The bike literally only sat for three days between my last use of it and being done with the work. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I am at the end of my thought train and am about to take it in. Thanks. Matt

Sorry if this has already been posted in a previous thread but I could not find any specifics on my issue. I am in the process of rebuilding a 86 VFR 700F and I am working on getting the motor dropped. I have all steps completed as stated in the service manual however, after taking off the side stand nut and the lower nut on the other side I noticed that they were nut and not bolt holding the engine. There are 2 threaded bolts sticking out from the lower motor mounts that I am not sure how to remove. I have all the hanger bolts out and when lowering the engine it just pivots around the lower mount bolts. Can anyone tell me the process for removing these lower bolts as they are threaded and not sure if there is a special tool or do I need to take them out from the other side which would be under the motor and blocked by the exhaust? The side stand bolt has a place in the middle where I can use a hex tool but not sure if that is the way to remove this threaded bolt from the frame/engine. Seems like I would break the hex tool if I put too much torque on it. Thank you, TeamHatchett

Hi again folks: there's a 4th gen bike for sale here which is very cheap because the engine apparently has a faulty exhaust valve. I am yet to speak to the owner to see how he knows this for sure, but I also wanted to know how easy it would be to replace this valve. Is it something within the competency of a good DIY mechanic to do without the need for specialist tools? The engine has over 100,000kms on it. Thanks

Ola', I've been wondering what the average lifespan of a motorcycle engine is. A few look on forums and people give completely different responses, which also vary widely with the style of the bike. My last bike was a CBR1100RR Blackbird, before selling that I had near 80,000km on the clock, I think I put on about 50,000km myself and it was still running quite well. I was always under the impression that 100,000km (60,000mi) is about fair game, but I also understand that proper maintenance will help extend the life span. At the moment I have just shy of 16,000mi on the clock, and I only bought it almost a year ago with 8,000mi. Given the calculation of an average of 8,000mi per year, I'm curious how many years I think I've got before I would need start thinking of trading in/up. If anyone has proper mechanical knowledge on this subject, I'd like to hear it. Also, I'd like to hear what the current reading on peoples odometer is, maybe it'll give me peace of mind that I've got a few years left with a sturdy engine.

Don't know if anyone's seen and/or posted this... if so, please wipe this thread and accept my apologies... The Honda Force V4 Story 1978 - 2012 The V4 Engine Story - 35 years of technological evolution and challenge. http://world.honda.com/V4-story/08/ PS: Can't see the 4th gen Dutchy...

Someone asked if it's the exhaust valve that drops first in a VF500 engine. The answer to that is apparently. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/76067-cornercarver-got-better-head-than-me/ Maybe I should go for three in a row Guess I'll just start taking everything apart. Anyone want a VF500C with clean title, but missing an engine?

hey everyone, i am looking at running a VF500 engine in a FSAE race car. i was wondering what the difference is between vf engines, other then capacity? is the capacity changed by stroke or bore size? also do the larger engines have larger ports? unfortunately, in Australia VF500 engines are few and far between so i was hoping i could get a 750 block and put a 500 crank in it? (the formula is limited to 600cc) mix and match engine parts. any advice would be appreciated , or even if anyone has an old VF engine lying around. i would happily rebuild a tired, old unit. regards Callum Boyce