Captain 80s

Pretty sure md stated in another thread that he has a perfect front wheel in a certain factory color and wants the matching factory color rear wheel in excellent (to new) condition.

I don't think you contradicted yourself in this post, I am just pointing out for the benefit of some US owners as this comes up every now and then, 91 RON is ~equivalent to 87 OCT. Here in the States, in most places you have access to 87 / 89 / 91-93 OCT. Most of our ethanol free is in 87 OCT flavor, with some rare places offering higher OCT E-free. It is not very common to find E-free, at least around here in the NW US. I live just a little north of Seattle, definitely urban, higher population, and the closest places for me are 20-40 minutes away. And not on the way to good roads. While I sometimes do run some premium fuel, when I get into some small towns, perhaps below avg income, I always get the 87. That is the tank that likely gets cycled more often.

Wow what a fun post. Just a small tip. You can tell how much a person understands about joining a new forum based on how they handle offering unsolicited advice.

I installed the YSS PD valves on my CB-1 to try them out. Very happy with them. Going to do some 86 VFR forks with them next.

I need a dime... that's top of the line. Cute face, slim waist with a big behind.

My thoughts as well. Sweet bike.

The overlooked one. 😉 I'm not sure how these cheap switches are supposed to work on any bike. They don't seem to bring switched power over to other wires that need it, to then be distributed. I do know how SWEET it was to hear the fuel pump prime when I made the jumper. And how good that beer tasted while it was running, knowing I made the right call to buy the bike.

I didn't have to use any relays, just created the connections needed for "ON" with jumper wires into new blade connectors installed in the plug connector. Everything worked as normal, key turned everything ON and OFF as needed and there weren't any weird drains on battery or other issues the whole time he had it. I think you may be overlooking a connection.

Welcome and Congrats.... but not cool. Gotta post pics!!

My buddy was looking at a theft recovery 2002 that wouldn't start after they installed a new ignition switch. Most everything was fixed, had some really nice slip ons, Power Commander, newer tires and new Chinese bodywork. After looking at it I told.him to buy it. It was real cheap and still a risk, but I was confident. Took me a while but I finally figured out the replacement switch (Chinese) didn't make the other connections besides the two main power. Once I jumped the other connectors on the harness side for the switch, everything worked, bike started immediately. Does that sound familiar? Can't explain why your "hot wire" isn't working, but there must be a connection you are missing. Are you working with a Honda Manual to verify what connections need to be made to replicate the switch when "ON"? (He rode it for about 4 or 5 years with zero issues and sold it for a nice profit. Basically got paid to ride a VFR.)

Yum.

Clutch basket appears to be in good shape judging by the reflections across (what appear to be) minimal grooves in the outer basket fingers.

The oil pump chains are loose to begin with. To the point everyone thinks there's a problem. There isn't.

Can... hardly... type.... laughing too hard.

That makes more sense. Very cool. Proceed!

I've seen this dozens of times and that is crystalized brake fluid perhaps mixed with some oil from a failing clutch rod seal. Honda finishes are pretty resilient, but also not sure what you're seeing to say the paint is doing ok. This doesn't convince me that isn't old, shitty brake fluid mixed with oil/chain grime. Multiple issues here likely. Also note the sweet orange RTV on the impeller housing.

It seems nice enough otherwise that it deserves a chance with a different engine.

Any real key cutter / locksmith can (should be able to) do it by the number.

You would have to scan yours (or known good ones) to create a digital model of the fairings. I don't recall reading about this being done already on this model, at least on the main fairing pieces.

Should be easily replaceable from the outside then. The 86/87 has a ridge that slots into the two halves of the crankcase. It's a bitch to extract and you need to either remove the ridge if you're not splitting the cases or buy an aftermarket seal in the correct dimensions. By the way, have you had the cover off to see if the clutch rod seal, shift shaft seal, or clutch slave cylinder are leaking?

Inspect the new seal. Does it have a raised narrow ridge on the Outside Diameter?

Here's the Inner Wing with some of them... 😉

Even though it is called the CB4X, that is a CB650R engine.

Look into Pit Bull for starters.

The tail gets completely assembled off of the bike and then installed as a unit. Start with attaching the smaller pieces to the taillight while introducing the sides. Turn signal are last. Have somebody hold and support to assist while assembling, the pieces are somewhat fragile and intricate, and as you mentioned, now extra brittle. Don't forget to plug in the unit, half way back on the left, as you go on. Getting around the rear brake reservoir can be tricky and it seems like you are stressing everything out... it's because you are. The upper cowls and headlight go on assembled in one piece (upper left and right cowls and headlight surround). Have someone assist on this too, holding the pieces as you put together the upper assembly. This installs into the grommet receptacles above the oil cooler and then bolted on the sides. BE VERY CAREFUL of the side mounts and make sure they stay INSIDE the cowl as you are attempting to push the upper assemble in place and into the grommet holders and getting around the dash panel. Ask me how I know, as I lost a few years of my life on that little detail. So, have somebody help on this too, they can also plug in the headlight and turn signals while you hold it before pushing it completely in place. The inner "V" piece behind the wheel is next, screwed on to the upper cowl assembly. It will just kinda hang waiting for the next pieces. The black textured lowers are next. Screw them together as one piece before mounting. The middle cowls are last. Install the windshield, mirrors and little trim pieces. Crack a beer. And then curse when you realize you forgot to plug everything in. Good luck.