Captain 80s

Paints that don't require a multiple stages to get the color right. Like a colored base coat and/or a special top coat, like a very translucent pearl. Sold white, no pearl or metallic, is pretty easy to shoot, and hides flaws and contamination really good. Your tape lines look pretty on. I'll compare a straight side look on my 86, but Honda usually has it's stripes configured for straight from the side. Look for a Duplicolor non-metallic white in a can to match up. They offer quite a few. I've got one I am gonna try for that white fairly soon. Not sure which one I picked out (will verify), but GM Arctic White is supposed to be pretty damn close to Shasta White.

Ouch. I see some white paint in your future. The good news... single stage solid white is usually the easiest to shoot and have look good.

I just added another Hawk to the fleet. Built my first one. bought this one. 700cc engine. Couldn't afford NOT to buy it.

I see two options. Best fit it to just cover the blue. It will be "off" a little to the cowl, obviously. Maybe get some red tape and see how off it really looks. You last photo... Very off. Scuff and repaint the white in the correct configuration. Apply graphics.

Pretty sure that is actually the "seam" when they made the tire, delaminating. I have seen it many times at the shop, including one of my bikes. It looks like somebody took a blade across it. Avon bias ply did it for a few years. And some Pirelli I think. Customers were convinced of vandalism, but it wasn't the case. It's one of the reasons tires are directional besides water dispersment of the tread pattern. The acceleration and braking forces can start pulling that apart if ran in the wrong direction. But it can still happen even if mounted properly. Your tire sure looks OLD anyway. What's the date code?

They are not mutually exclusive. Both can be true.

This is in case the link dies...

That needs a plug...

There are no rubber pads between the seat and the subframe on these bikes. But I think they did put some thin foam strips on either side of the latch. Honda subframes have always had "artifacts" like extra threaded bosses. Don't know if they were future proofing for changes are possible requirements for different markets. My 92 and 95 VFRs have extra 12mm threaded bosses in the sides of the subframe and marked panels that can be removed from the inner fender. They sure look like they were put there for possible Hondaline luggage or racks that never materialized. The plastic the seat pans are made of is kinda weird, I don't think it takes to repairs very well.

It's not a lie if they believe it's true. The only things I think are real is that it was a VFR, owned by somebody who had raced, and it "had a carbon scorpion exhaust" Oh, and he said the RVF1000RR-R is really happening and is gonna be an early release 2025 model!!!!

Maybe "know" isn't the best term. The previous owner had posted about it during the time he owned it and rode it to a couple motorcycle events. I was admiring the nice selection of period mods. I would have bought it too.

It also affects tuning, so if the bike is jetted up for mods it could run too rich if you start taking discs out.

I know that VFR750F, it's got some very cool period parts on it. You can always buy a set of Left & Right silencers of your choice and just use the connecting pipes.

Yep. 😉 Thanks!

The reports I have read seem to be from owners that are pretty good regarding maintenance. I think "some" is probably more accurate. I think it was stop gab engineering in a mid life model update along with the cat, sensors and PGM updates.

That would def be a mod I would do if I had a 00-01. I have a lifetime of practice using a lever, thank you very much.

Oh my god... but you lost 2 years of your life from racking your brain. That would have bugged the F outa me. Very good news.

I know the 88 has the same pattern as 86/87. I have seen pics of a key less Tyga CBR cap "adjusted" to fit an 88. Can't speak to the absolute quality of fitment.

I'm kinda diggin the VF500F2 front fairings. Seems to "fit" decent. I hate the fitment of white NC/RC fairing. The angle is TERRIBLE and is what I make fun of when people try to use them on the wrong bikes. The rear angles of the cowls need to match the angle of the frame or they look very "off". Just like the plane that the screen mounts to... needs to be some what close the overall angle of the bike/tank. Plus the angle of the headlights... are we illuminating the tree tops? Those are made for below-the-triples clip ons.

91 - 98 CBR bars are low and forward of the fork tube. 90 - 97 VFR bars are in line with the tube. Those are 94 - 97. 90 - 93 have the pinch bolts on the bottom, not inboard. The rise and pull back is identical tho. 90 - 93 style 89 - 90 CB-1 bars are forward of the the tube, but have a higher rise than CBR Stock Hawk GT bars are in line with the tube and quite tall.

Agreed. I always forget that. Also it's InterceptOr.

It is a bit of a venn diagram. Not every Interceptor is a VFR, and not every VFR is an Interceptor. Also, a VF and VTR can be an Interceptor, but they're not a VFR. A VF can also not be a VFR or Interceptor.

Is it a weird angle, or did you make it slightly longer than stock?

I think the only ones that will accommodate your bars (and sit close to where they should be) are the FJ and GPZ. The VTR1000F is worth a look too I think. I thought you already determined the VF1000F/FII variants weren't right. And damn, that #519 Race Bike is fucking cool!