NVR2L8

Well, maybe I am confused then. I called the dealer and spoke to another service advisor who claimed he was very familiar with the recall. He said that at a minimum the front and rear sub harnesses are replaced under the recall. Only the left main harness (and any other affected parts) are replaced if additional damage is found. So, once mine is done I will check the battery harness to see if it was replaced.

I took my 05 in last Saturday, and I was surprised when the service advisor told me that the bike had to be inspected per the recall instructions. When it was finished I was told they didn't find any wiring problems at all...I had already done the "blue connector/green wire mod", plus the "monitor wire re-route to + battery terminal" and "30-amp fuse fix"...and in that instance the recall instructions said to only replace the front cowl sub harness. Has anyone else run into the dealer inspecting and then only replacing the front headlight harness? I was really hoping I would get the revised 30-amp fuse harness, but I supposed I can buy my own if my repair job fails (doubt it...).

I've been meaning to post my recent findings... If you've read thru the entire thread where I discussed some of the mods I have done to my bike, as well as some of the things I did that had an affect as I tried to eliminate the hot running surging, one of the first things that stood out as a partial fix were the velocity stacks. The arrangement of the velocity stacks in this configuration, “Left Front: Short”, “Right Front: Tall”, “Left Rear: Tall”, and “Right Rear: Short”, made a definite difference. I commute to work on my VFR every day, so I believe I ride it enough to be able to tell when something makes it run better or worse. The velocity stacks in the above arrangement seemed to help but didn’t totally eliminate the hot surging. I had already done most of the electrical mods, such as the 30-amp fuse fix, left-side blue connector ground wire, and so on, but since my bike is fairly new and the wiring seems to be okay so far, I thought of these mods/upgrades as preventive measures since none of them affected the surging. What I didn’t realize is that my particular surging problem was related to the electrical system. About 3-4 months ago I noticed that my barely 2-year-old battery was starting to act up. In the summer mornings it seemed as though the engine was becoming harder to start, and when I hit the starter button it took several revolutions until the engine started. Work with me on the sound effects here, but it was like “woo woo, woo woo, woo woo, woo woo, vroom!!!” Slow tickover until it finally gone caught and started. I also had an instance where I stopped at a traffic light, and the idle dropped to about 500 rpms for about 10 secs before it finally came back up. I finally decided to just replace the battery when the bike barely started after the third of several errands I had run during my work lunch break. I went with an FTZ-14S from motorcyclebatteries.com, which is the same size as the stock battery, but has a few more cold cranking amps. The first time I hit the starter button after installing it the engine fired up with a “woo woo, vroom!!!”, so I know my slow starting was due to the battery. Maybe my stock battery is somehow defective and just doesn’t hold a charge correctly...? The next morning when I rode to work I didn’t even think about the new battery, until I noticed the engine seemed to be running a lot smoother. During my 40 minute commute I didn’t notice any running surging whatsoever, although I really didn’t believe the battery could have been the source of the problem. So, for the next week I decided to really focus on how the bike ran in really hot temperatures. Well, I installed the new battery a little over two weeks ago, and in my particular case I think that was the problem. We’ve had some pretty hot temps here in SoCal for a while now, and there have been only a few times where I’ve noticed only a very slight surge or a slight on/off throttle dead spot. But it’s nothing compared to how it ran before…it’s a night and day difference. In fact, I am amazed at how smooth it runs now. I can run in 1st gear at 5-6K, at engine temps well over 200F, and it doesn’t surge at all. Nada... A few days after installing the battery I decided I had better also do the monitor wire fix, as although my voltage below the high level per the service manual at about 15.1 – 15.2 volts, I was worried that maybe the battery had gotten overcharged and that is what made it fail so quickly. After the wiring fix my voltage is now steady at 14.2 – 14.3 volts. I really don’t think the running voltage was the problem, as the engine definitely ran better after the new battery was installed, but the same after the monitor wire fix. So…I think my hot surging issue was electrically related, but I’m not sure how. The only thing I can figure is that the overall electrical system would become degraded after the bike fully warmed up, and somehow the battery was part of the equation, although I don't see how the battery could change characteristics depending on engine temperature. Anyway, my advice is that if you experience a similar problem, do yourself a favor and perform all of the wiring fixes/upgrades, but first have the battery checked as a potential source.

Yea, between the forks // above the fender works okay on a ABS model, unless you've lowered the front end after rotating the triangle or going with a longer dogbone link. The latter applies to me, which is why I went with installing it where the EVAP canister normally resides. BTW Veefer Madness, I don't know about the other 49 State bikes, but on my CA model the EVAP canister is mounted in front of the oil pan and sorta nested just behind the head pipes. I made brackets out of flat stainless steel that tucks the Stebel into that area, although the horn outlet is close to the head pipes. Like I said, so far no problems with mounting it in that location.

In my opinion, the horn...stock or Stebel...is the last option you should consider when someone tries to merge into your lane. I might give someone a blast to let them know I'm there if I "even think" they are gonna move into my space, but if someone is totally oblivious and makes an aggressive maneuver towards me, I'm either on the brakes or gas to avoid them. Once the danger has passed I definitely let my Stebel speak for me...maybe even give them a one finger salute too. :goofy: PS: I have a 6th Gen w/ABS, and since last September have had my Stebel mounted where the EVAP canister is normally located. It's a tight fit that requires homemade brackets, and to avoid the fairing the horn sits pretty close to the head pipes, but after 6 months it's still working like a champ.

Please post your results after trying the stack swap...I rode my bike for about 2 weeks after the change to make sure the stack placement made a difference. I still get some slight surging now and then, but as quicknick already mentioned, it also helps to change your startup routine. Turn the ignition ON and let the fuel pump prime, and then OFF and back ON. Crazy...but it works. I also re-connected the flapper. I didn't notice any performance gain with it disconnected, and I quickly tired of hearing the intake suckage noise. It also didn't make any difference with the surging, but with it re-connected it does make the on/off throttle a little snatchier. Still, my flapper is back to stock and I'm leaving that way.

Update to my surging issue!!!! I’ve posted here on VFRD about an annoying surging problem, and I think I might have stumbled onto something. Here’s a quick synopsis... I started having a surging problem sometime last summer. It usually only happened when the bike temp reached 200F or higher, and was very pronounced when riding at high rpm at a constant speed in first gear. My bike has been de-flapperized, un-PAIR’ed, and the EVAP canister has been removed, and other mods include Staintunes, K&N air filter, PCIII USB and O2 Eliminators. After my low-speed crash last September I figured it was a good time to do a few things that I thought might take care of the problem, so I checked all vacuum lines and capped-off fittings for leakage, checked vacuum and fuel lines for kinks, replaced the fuel tank fuel filter, replaced the sparkplugs, beefed up the 30-amp fuse link with 12 gauge wire, and re-synced the starter valves. Dynojet even sent me a new PCIII USB after I sent mine in for testing. About a month ago I re-connected the flapper valve, and since I didn’t want to re-connect the PAIR system, I installed a set of aluminum PAIR valve covers. None of these things had any affect or fixed the surging problem… A few weeks ago I tried something else after reading a post here on VFRD, and I think what I did all but eliminated the surging problem. I can’t say that the surging is completely gone, because once in a while when the engine is at 200F or higher, I can occasionally feel just a slight amount of stumbling while holding a steady throttle in first gear, but it’s definitely a lot better. So it’s not a 100% fix...more like a 90% fix which is great and I can live with it. What was the fix you ask? It was the velocity stack placement… At some point after having the airbox apart and putting it back together, I didn’t think to see how the stacks were originally placed at the factory, and when I checked VFRD the consensus here was that they should be front/short and rear/tall. In one of H.S.’s tutorials though he has the placement staggered, except just the opposite as what I show below. Anyway, ever since last summer I’ve had the velocity stacks with the short in the front and the tall in the rear, and I’ve been chasing a frustrating surging problem. After reading another post though, I switched my stacks to this configuration which seems to be how the manual depicts them and how they are installed at the factory. Left Front: Short Right Front: Tall Left Rear: Tall Right Rear: Short Here is the thread: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...c=30771&hl= I don’t know why this makes a difference, but it does seem to affect how the bike runs. So if you’re running the stacks as front/short and rear/tall, and are experiencing low speed high rpm surging, then I suggest trying the stacks in this configuration. It worked for me…

Thanks for the replies... After work I'm taking the bike to the dealer for the leaking shock, and depending on what the service manager says just might let the dealer figure it out. I trust this dealership since they're small and family owned...not like the other big Los Angeles area dealerships. Some good advice here though and I appreciate the help...I'm leaning towards a vacuum leak or maybe I plugged something I shouldn't have.

I have about 10.5K miles on the bike... And I'm not sure when the problem started, but it was a while ago. It definitely didn't have this problem when I first got it though, so it has to be something I modified or removed. And since the problem didn't surface shortly after a mod, I haven't been able to pinpoint it to anything specific. About a year ago I do remember the end of a work day commute, because when riding in 1st gear thru the last two blocks of the residential area near my home, it all of a sudden for the first time started surging. It was like, "okay, it hasn't ever done this before so what the heck is happening?" Anyway, I was pretty careful when removing the flapper valve, PAIR system, and EVAC canister junk. I made sure to cap off everything except the fuel tank vent hose, but I still might have done something wrong. What is really puzzling is that during the winter months the cooler weather means the operating temp is usually between 175-200, and at these temps it's been running great. The first time the weather is warm and the bike gets over 200 in city traffic, then the surging becomes worse. Strange... Going completely back to stock will be tough... That means re-installing the flapper and PAIR...both which can be done...but the area where the EVAC canister usually resides is now taken by a Stebel. I would also have to remove the Staintunes and install the stock exhaust.... All together it's a lot of work... The bike is going to the dealer tonight because the right front shock is leaking from the seal. I'm going to be honest with the service manager and explain what I've done, what it's doing, and see what he has to say.

I have an 05' w/ABS, and for about a year now I've done just about everything I can think of to eliminate a hot running surging problem. This symptom doesn't appear until the engine temp is over 200F, and is a lot more pronounced in 1st/2nd gear at the usual 4-5.5k rpm range, although it's still present but less pronounced in other gears at higher rpms. It's definitely a hot running problem...which pretty much means it runs badly during the summer months here in SoCal. Here is a little history... When I first got the bike, within a month or so I removed the flapper valve, PAIR system, and sync'd the starter valves. I also installed a set of Staintunes, and all tubing for the flapper and PAIR was yanked and capped off, and as far as I can tell I don't have a vacuum leak. Later on I added a PCIII USB and O2 Eliminators to help smooth out low rpm snatchiness, and when that helped but didn't eliminate the on/off transition, I also tried the Turbo City fuel pressure regulator. Never could get a working combination that totally got rid of the problem, so I decided to just live with it. When my bike was apart this past September after a minor low-side, I went back to the stock fuel pressure regulator, and decided to replace the internal fuel filter and sparkplugs in case either might be a contributing factor to this problem. I also sent the PCIII back to Dynojet for testing, and even though they didn't find anything wrong with it, they sent me a brand new one. Also tested the O2 Eliminators...they weren't exactly 300 ohms if I remember correctly...just a little less at 290 ohms or so. Well within a 5% tolerance though... This past weekend I loaded a zero PCIII map just to see what would happen, and once the bike got hot it surged even worse than before. It's tough to explain the surging, but it's as if the engine is stumbling...either from a severe lack of air or fuel. Anyway, I'm about to give up and sell this thing as I can't believe I'm supposed to deal with a bike that runs like this. Any help comments would be appreciated...

I just installed the full kit on my '05 this past week so I only have about 100 miles of experience with it, but in my opinion it definitely helps with overall shifting. Coming off a CBR600F4i I always thought the whole VFR shifting process was a little too mushy, and I often had trouble with the first to second gear shift plus I was always getting false neutrals. The kit just makes shifting more...I think "positive" is a good word to describe it...and combined with good technique makes the whole process seamless. Anyway, if you ask me I think $200 (plus a few quarts of oil and a $2 water pump o-ring) might be a little pricey for what you get, but like Trace has said you couldn't give me $500 to remove it. In fact, even if you gave me $1000 I'd just buy another kit and spend the profit on other goodies. :P

Cdn Arctic and Ken...I really really really like these brackets!!! So who is going to make me a set? Seriously...I want some and have neither the time nor the patience (and sadly nor the skill either) to make them myself. So I would pay a reasonable fee for time and material for whoever is interested... Also, and just as important, while I want a modified // more forward mounted Givi topcase setup like this, I also want it to work with the SW Motech sidecase mounting system that is shown on Twisted Throttle's web site. Have either of you looked at the feasability of your mod working with the SW Motech sidecase system?

Looks nice... For now I have a RK 36-liter bag mounted on a Rev Performance tail rack, but I need a better solution for hauling stuff when commuting (and a solution that works for trips as well). I've never liked how the Givi case hangs off the end of the bike though, so I'm interested in what you've done. I don't necessarily need the ability to remove the seat although it would be really nice, so let us know if you come up with a different bracket that provides more clearance or allows for seat removal. Maybe the shop that fabricated your brackets could do a few more? So if you come up with a different bracket, keep me in mind because I would definitely pay a fair price for a decent product.

Yes, after installing the modified regulator and sync'ing the starter valves, my first riding test was with the PCIII disconnected and the 02 sensors installed. My impression in this configuration was that the regulator cured most of the ridability/tractability issues, but unfortunately there were still a few slow speed problems. And when I say "a few slow speed problems", I mean a slight amount of the on/off symptom was still there, but for the most part it had been almost eliminated. Also, the transition to VTEC was a heck of a lot smoother after installing the new regulator. Anyway, I was going to have Tom up the fuel pressure a few more psi and see if that helped with the remaining 5-10%, but instead of going that route I reconnected the PCIII, disconnected the 02 sensors, and loaded up a map that was slightly richer than the one I had previously used. So far in this configuration I've been able to take a few rough edges off and smooth out most of the remaining issues, but without the right equipment all I can go on is my gut feeling when it comes to tweaking the maps. Right now I believe my low speed areas might be running too rich. Just wish I had unlimited access to a dyno and exhaust gas analyzer. I suppose my next step would be to have Tom modify my stock regulator and run it at 50 psi...again without the PCIII and 02 sensors connected...but that will probably be some time down the road. Sounds like a winter project... :P

When I picked up my modified regulator...I only live about 20 minutes from Turbo City...out of curiosity I asked Tom how he modified the part. His response was a smile, but he did comment about a proprietary tool he had designed for the modification. I'm sure it's not all that complicated to mod it for more pressure though, but I leave that sort of thing to the experts. Plus Tom is a stand-up guy and took time to explain some of the in and outs of modern fuel injection systems. In fact, I'm thinking of taking my stock regulator to him to also have it modified, so I will have a spare in the event the current one ever fails. Anyway... Yes, although I have no hard data to back up my claims, I will go on the record and say that just changing out the fuel regulator made a huge improvement in the lower rpm and throttle range. In fact, I would suggest the regulator mod before spending $300-plus on a PCIII and 02 Eliminators. I've read about syncing the starter valves with the 20mm difference on the Brit web site, but somewhere I also recently read that the VTEC manual misprint claim is not true and the valves should in fact be set equal to #4. Still, I suppose it wouldn't hurt to give it a try and see if it makes a difference. As far as running with the 02 sensors connected, I can also give that a try. Someone clarify though, as I'm under the impression that if the sensors are connected, that the PCIII must be disconnected? So it's not possible to connect the sensors AND run the PCIII?

I bought a modified fuel pressure regulator from Turbo City a few weeks ago, and Tom mentioned mine was set at 48 psi given my mods (Staintunes and K&N). My "seat of the pants" impression is that the fuel regulator mod cured about 98% of my problems...mostly low speed and light throttle ridability issues...but it's still not perfectly smooth throughout the entire throttle and rpm range/spectrum. I can tell you this though, this simple R&R of the regulator made more of a difference than anything else I have tried, as well as all the different PCIII maps I tried and tweaked--so I highly suggest calling Tom and talking to him about a custom regulator for your bike. Also, for right now, after doing the starter valve sync (this also helped quite a bit), I'm running the modified regulator, 02 Eliminators, PCIII, and I am still trying out a few different maps to smooth out the remaining spots. I don't have access to a dyno or other such equipment, but my general impression is that I might be getting real close to achieving "fuel management nirvana"...

I have the Motion Pro carb tool, but I'm wondering if the inline restrictors are even necessary. I agree they're recommended to keep the fluid from entering the engine (mercury in my case too), but are they needed if you don't rev the engine past 3000 or so? Would the engine pull more vacuum on the tool if the restrictors are removed? MFP-2241: Where did you find the 1/4" to 5/32" adaptors?