NVR2L8

Those splices look soldered to me, and the fact that they burnt at the splice means that you had a bad solder joint. And based on this picture I say that the failure most likely resulted from resistance and not over-voltage, so keep that in mind when you solder wire-to-wire or use solder to fill in crimp connectors. It's always a good idea to make sure the splice did not create any resistance in the wire, especially if the wire handles a lot of current or voltage. They were soldered, I guess I'll have to work on a better connection next time. This was the other end of the splice, showing a lot of heat at the crimp. Were those quick disconnects crimped and soldered, or just crimped? Either way, you can see evidence of heat there too. But that's exactly how I bypassed the OEM stator connector on my bike, and now I'm wondering if my quick disconnects are also burnt. I don't know what to say about these connectors, except that maybe you used quick disconnects smaller than 14 gauge? If so, as a general rule of thumb then I don't anything less than 14 gauge would be capable of handling the current flow that each phase of the stator is capable of producing. FYI...on a 12 volt system, for a short length of wire 14 gauge is rated at 30 amps, but 18 gauge is only rated at half that.

Those splices look soldered to me, and the fact that they burnt at the splice means that you had a bad solder joint. And based on this picture I say that the failure most likely resulted from resistance and not over-voltage, so keep that in mind when you solder wire-to-wire or use solder to fill in crimp connectors. It's always a good idea to make sure the splice did not create any resistance in the wire, especially if the wire handles a lot of current or voltage.

Just look for posts re SoCal Rides on VFRD in the "Ride Planning" forum and "USA West" sub forum. Actually, you can get on a pseudo "mailing list" by simply subscribing to the forum. Click the link below and select your notification method...then you'll get an email whenever someone posts a new topic in the forum "Rider Groups - Ride Planning > USA - West. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?app=core&module=usercp&tab=forums&area=watch&do=watch&watch=forum&fid=32

My stator died during a 2008 ride through Sequoia, but it wasn't until I started the last leg of the trip that I noticed the voltage was around 13.5 volts. Although the majority of the final leg into Fresno is downhill, I was able to go about 50-60 miles. So even though my experience doesn't offer that much more in the way of scientific evidence, I would think that if your battery was fully charged battery and your rode conservatively with the headlights on low beam and operating no other accessories, my guess is that you have at least 30 minutes of riding time. And in my case the engine didn't just suddenly quit...besides the gradual dimming of the headlights the engine started to miss/sputter when the battery was nearly discharged.

I've installed two VFRnesses, and the extra connectors and heavier wiring seem to add just enough bulk to make the right side cowl a little hard to fit properly. The problem is that there are 4-5 connectors all in the same general area, so I just staggered and/or stacked them in such a way that the cover finally fit without interferring with the wiring. No real advice on how to achieve this...more or less a matter of trail and error until the cover fits properly. I'm sure Tightwad has some pics of a 6th Gen install that might help, so you might want to send him a PM.

So now I know my exhaust cans can be rotated for a little more clearance...thanks marcos for posting the photos. BTW, if you do go with the 2Bros exhaust route, I suggest mounting the OEM sidecase hardware first and then the exhaust system, as getting the grab handle bolts aligned was difficult due to the slight clearance problem.

I have the carbon fiber VALE system on my '06, and the cans are a pretty tight fit with the OEM sidecase brackets. So tight that the brackets slightly contact the rear part of the cans and push them inward about 1/8". In my case the contact might be due to the fact that the cans were installed by the previous owner, and I didn't add the OEM brackets until this summer. On a recent June tour one of the guys riding with me mentioned that for more clearance I could try to slightly rotate the cans for a little more clearance, but to be honest I had completely forgotten about it until reading your post. If it works, I'm thinking I might get 1/8" of clearance instead of the slight contact. I'll try to take a look after work today, and see if rotating them helps at all. Will also post a pic later tonight... The absence of the mid-pipe guard has never been an issue, and I'm not sure if the system even comes with a guard. Like I said, they were on the bike when I bought it... Have you contacted Two Brothers to see if they sell one? Lastly, with the restrictors out the Two Brothers VALE system is pretty loud. Definitely louder than the Staintunes on my '05 VFR... I will also check on the temp of the carbon fiber heat shield, but it will be a few days before I ride it to work.

How well do they work when wearing foam ear plugs?

That would be true if I had a completely charged battery. Which I did yesterday on my way to work. I think there was a little juice left allowing me to start it. The battery is dead now. Sometimes a dead battery can recharge itself to start an engine and power the electrical system for a very short time. My guess is that your stator is toast, or the stator wiring is open due to a surge. When you troubleshoot using the Electrosport guide you'll be checking the stator at the right side stator connector, so if the stator checks okay then also for any heat related damage. If you have any it will be obvious at this right side stator connector.

I had about 30K on my '05 when the stator died on a ride through Sequoia... The Electrosport guide is great though, and let us know what you find out.

My local locksmith didn't have a problem finding a blank to make a duplicate key for me, and it's a regular looking all metal key instead of the funky Givi style. So I know it's possible to have it duplicated although I guess you're at the mercy of your locksmith's abilities. I think your best bet is to buy a single case two-key replacement kit...Twisted Throttle sells them for $9.00. They also have two or three key kits if you also have sidecases. http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/909/169/

Interested in the EVOII Conical in carbon fiber, but only if I can be assured there is no interference with the factory sidecase mounting hardware. Anybody here running the EVOII system and factory sidecases? Pics?

Thanks for that info. I'm assuming other Givi topcases would work as well? I don't want/need one as big as the V46. I really don't think the V46 is all that big, especially when compared to the 52 or 55 liter Givi cases, so you might want to take a look at a V46 in person before making a choice. As far as different cases working with the SW-Motech rack, I know there are a lot of different adapter plates for mounting various cases to various racks, so give the folks at Twisted Throttle (http://www.twistedthrottle.com) and see what they suggest.

Rumor has it that you can use the SW-Motech Alu-Rack (for mounting topcase) along with the OEM side cases. I much prefer the Givi rack though. You definitely can use a SW-Motech Alu-Rack and Givi V46 with the OEM sidecases. That was the configuration I ran for a while until I eventually sold the rack to a member here. Since I don't ride with a passenger I prefer to mount my V46 on a "Kanadian Ken" topcase mount, which in case you don't know moves the topcase further forward (over the passenger seat), rather than the OEM setup where the topcase sort of hangs off the back of the bike. Either way you go (OEM rack and topcase or SW-Motech with V46) the end result is pretty much the same although I don't know the difference in price between the two. And as I mentioned, you can also go with the Kanadian Ken mount if you want to change the mounting position of the topcase.

I have a Datel too, and mine started doing the same thing about 6 months ago. When first installed it was rock solid for the longest time...like 14.4 once the bike was started...and then out of the blue I noticed it would fluctuate just a little. Mine only varies about two-tenths of a volts though, so to me it's more of an annoyance than anything else. Anyway, you mentioned it was wired to a tightwad's fuse block, but you didn't say how you were running power to the fuse block. I'm assuming the fuse block is being turned on by some sort switched circuit, and that you're running 12V directly from the battery to the fuse block. If so, my guess is what you're seeing is a normal amount of slight voltage fluctuation, due to the nature of the bike's stator/RR electrical system operating under a very light load. Try turning on accessories and see if the Datel starts to level out. I bet it does...

I think the place in PA that you're thinking about is "The Service Pavillion". I met them last year at the Suzuki Superbike race in Fontana, and had them custom fit me into a Arai helmet. Anyway, as far as I know this is the #1 Arai dealer in the U.S., so if this isn't the place that will inspect your helmet, then they will know who does. Phone (toll-free): 877-819-2245 or 610-960-2245 http://www.theservicepavilion.com/index.html

Here is an address from when I emailed him about two years ago... Rod MacDonald risers@hotmail.co.uk

I have a set of bar risers that I bought from Rogue, and they don't look like the ones in your photos. As a matter of fact, Rogue's riders are very similar (read: identical) to Gen Mar risers. So unless these are an early version of his product, then these are not Rogue risers.

I have experience with Z's Custom Leathers here in Santa Ana, CA. The made a two-piece set for me and the fit is absolutely perfect so I can recommend them for their quality of work. I know from talking to them that they also do alterations and repairs on all brands of gear, so I would give them a call. I can't guess about the cost for what you want done though, other than they do good work and you get what you pay for. Adolph (the owner) will also be able to step you through the fit and measurements. Z's Custom Leathers 714-890-5721

My 2005 had the front and battery harness replaced in Dec 2007 during the recall, and the stator was replaced in October 2008. I also did the monitor wire fix before and after the recall, and my idle voltage was similar to what you are seeing. My voltage at 5500 was higher though, and was typically around 14.4 volts. Then about a month ago my starter relay fried, so when I replaced it I also installed a VFRness that I bought from Tightwad. Now my 5500 rpm voltage is 14.6 with low beams, and it only drops to 14.4 - 14.5 with high beams.

Can't get it to work on my Verizon Blackberry Storm...

Yea, the green wire on the front side of the blue connector is missing if you've had the recall performed. I think I mentioned that in my post above...

I would be careful with replacing your main harness with another harness from another bike. I'm pretty sure the main harness is different between ABS and non-ABS models, and although I can't say with certainty, I think the harnesses are different on models made after 2005. So I would be leery of a harness off a parted bike, and if it was me, I would just repair the damaged section of the crushed harness, because if you ask me, that would be a lot easier than removing and replacing the main harness.