SEBSPEED

Nice, but I'm not going to try your method just yet... !

I'm still tempted to try a car wheel (with a bike tire on it) ... I don't know anything about Delkevic.

:dry:

I'm a bit of a sucker for the PVM 10Y wheel myself. I have too many projects right now to try this too - but let me know if they have a blowout sale or they start running out or something... might just get one...

Good work - also digging the keggerator! :blush: :cool:

I think I'll try that. I got the first extractor out a while ago, then a friend brought over some "better" Snap-On and Mac extractor sets - and proceeded to break a second one off in there, leaving me to grind it out AGAIN. Got pretty frustrated with it after going through 9-10 Dremel bits(@ $3.30/ea!)... so it's still sitting on my bench. This one little thing is keeping me from putting the motor back in the frame. I'm almost ready to find a machine shop within driving distance that has an EDM... :blush: And thanks, Redmarque!

Not sure what size tubing you used for the vertical part of the front end, but it looks like my idea might apply for you. I found that the black plastic plug that goes in the top of the steering stem on the stock bike would fit as frame plugs on my VF750F frame. Might also plug the holes in your girder?

Depending on the construction, to be honest, you couldn't be more wrong. C.F. to even a 0 pressure lay-up is still stronger than plastic. -3 A.P., and it is stronger than steel. Trav, did you ever end up making a full Cyko hugger from CF? Or is my one-off double secret probation part still the only one?

Flip the lower triple upside down in a vice and use a flathead screwdriver and a hammer to tap the bearing race off.

Larry, if you ever find the right size belt - would the pulley weigh more than the sprocket? Just curious, I know the belt obviously weighs less than the chain, still and in motion.

No! :biggrin:

How about a magnesium brake caliper torque arm Larry? :unsure:

I believe they last as long as steel rotors... Wow, that's almost unbelievable! :unsure:

You can get a title for $150-175 from a titling service if the vehicle is of a certain vintage.

It's never too late to learn - most vocational schools offer night/adult classes also. :fing02:

Mmm... sexy... How long do they last?

Wow, cool stuff. My father also owned one of those Laverdas, but a 1973 model.

Slammed. Spent so much time out in the shop yesterday that I lost feeling in my toes. I can move them now so all is good. One of these days I'll be able to work on my own parts. I've been saying that for two years now and I haven't done it yet.... Have you tried breaking the piece out with a punch? Hard is ok, but that usually comes along with being brittle. A couple of good smacks (don't be a wimp!) and it should bust out. This also helps loosen the broken bolt too by the way. I've not had much luck with easy-outs. I think I've only had them work once or twice. I now prefer to just drill out the bolt. Keeping the drill on center is the key, that way you can continued drilling out with increasing size bits until almost all of the bolt is gone. At that point it often just comes out by hand. I'm sure you know this, but I mention it just for those who are following along that might not be as familiar with a problem like this. Yep, it's been whacked a few times. The key is having something that's almost as hard or harder to hit it with. The original hole I drilled was/is straight, it got egged out a bit from grinding the first extractor out. Once I get the rest of this one out, I'm never touching an extractor again.

It soaked in PB Blaster for 2 weeks before the first extractor was broken... and that little piece of the second one needs to come out before any drilling happens, as you know. That crap is too hard for any drill bit to touch. The hole is also off center from grinding the first broken piece out, so I need to make a tool to center an oversize drill after I get that second piece out. Thank God for Dremels... even if their attachments are ridiculously overpriced.

NO JB WELD!!!!!!!!!!! Can't drill from the other side, it's accessible, but 1) I don't want to 2) it might eventually compromise the motor mount and 3) even if I drill from the back, the drill will still stop when it hits the extractor, it's too hard to drill. I have to sit down with the Dremel (again) and grind out the leftover extractor (again) then make a tool to center an oversize drill over the hole, and drill it all out, then tap to the next size up. Just not motivated at the moment. And the last four grinding stones I had to buy were $3.30 each...

So this is my latest cause of de-motivation... a broken mount bolt in the head. That little dot all the way in there is the second broken extractor. And the gauges got some liquid electrical tape on the new bulb connections. Lame update, I know, but better than none I hope?

The F4 rotors do interchange with the 900RR and VTR, as well as a couple other models. The F4i rotors do not, they have a larger bolt pattern than the F4. For example, I have purchased F4 rotors to put on my VFR, but they do not fit my F4i. I have bolted 330mm 929 rotors to my F4i and RC51 wheels, but they do not fit my VFR.

Congrats! Those old HRC parts are ridiculously hard to find. Are you going to repaint it?

BST wheels are 5 spoke Kev.