douglasthecook

Ok, this may have been covered previously in this thread, but I probably didn't comprehend the data. Why can't I just take the 4 cops install them in the cylinder heads, and wire them like the existing coils are wired, i.e., basically run new wires to the cops from the orginitang point to the cops...something like what I've tried to depict below... STOCK originating point>can coils>spark plug MOD originating point>cop>spark plug Like I've said before, I'm not really good with electronics, but all I want to do is swap the can coils for the cops, I really didn't think it would be a major modification, but hey, with these things, I really never know!!! Thanks for all the pateince, and repeated attemps to get me to comprehend all this data, as it is alot for me to take in!!! The below thread has alot of useful info, especially on pages 2 & 3...they discuss how the mod was done, as well as voltage and resistance. http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/honda-rc51/44187-removing-coils-wire-coil.html

Thanks for the picture, but being that I'm extremely electronically ignorant, I'm not sure how to interpret this. I can say from my own research that 2006 CBR cops are two coils. This may be something that I have my mechanic do, as he did say that it could be done, but I wasn't able to understand what he was explaining, his English is alot better than my German, but things still get lost in translation.

Umm, ok, ahh...what does all this mean??? I'm really good with nuts and bolts and aircraft, and aluminum, but not electricity. Someone needs to draw me a pretty picture, because I'm just not getting this, and could really use the visual assistance!!!

Yep that's the way it's done. It only ever works if one of the new coils is half the resistance/ohms of the oil dual coil pack. So even though some of your other bikes will be dual-coil they may not be 3.2 ohms. If the original dual coil packs are much lower than 3.2 ohms, you will overcharge the new coils (too long a dwell time) and blow the coils/wear the plugs out fast, or undercharge the coils (too short a dwell time) and get poor spark. Unless your CDI has closed loop dwell control of course, in which case pretty much anything should work. Well, in that case, I just need to get my hands on one more coil. I have 3... dunno what happened to the 4th. I have the harness for them as well, so that will be simple to cut up and run new wires to the old coil spades(will create a new connection with more suitable hardware). Of course, I should probably get the bike running in "stock" trim first... heh! Running would be good!!! If you do the coil conversion, please take picks ofr us individuals that aren't so electrically inclined, as I'm seriously debating on doing this mod prior to my track day at Spa in April, as I really haven't done anything to my VFR this winter, running out of things to mess with I guess...

What are the differences between the RC-51 stock coils and the VFR coils? Both utilize the same cannister type coil set-up, although I'm not sure what the voltage difference would be. If anything, I think that the RC would require a hotter spark because of the bigger piston/gas volume/displacement, but again, I'm not 100% sure of any of this, it's merely speculation on my part...

Thanks for this, there are some really good examples in there. In the 3rd-4th Gen page, I really like the Camel Honda RC-45 replica. I also really like the orange 5th Gen, as well as the Repsol 6th Gen! I'm kinda surprised that mine made it, cool regardless!!! Thanks again for the awesome collection!!!

Check out some of these threads from Speedzilla... http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc51-technical-discussion/60354-cbr600rr-coil-mod-wiring.html http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc51-technical-discussion/50381-cbr-coil-conversion.html http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc51-technical-discussion/44187-removing-coils-wire-coil.html http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/ducati-superbikes/56121-coil-over-plugs-working-748-s4rs.html http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc51-technical-discussion/65576-denso-plugs-w-cbr-coil-mod.html Not all may apply, but there should be useful info in those threads. The RC-51 uses pretty much the same coils as the 4th Gens (don't know exact specs), and the RC-51 guys do this mod rather frequently...

Well, about that...the forks that I bought were bent, and the only reason that I got the was for the bottoms, as those were still in really good shape. IU can tell you that the outer fork tubes were blaks, and that the inner tubes didn't have any coating for friction reduction. So it's not like I'm out alot of $$$, I think I only spent like $50.00 for them.

Yup, I'm a dumbass...the bad thing is that I normally do check for compatibility, and ensure the measurements are correct before taking them up to my mechanic, as he's normally really busy, and I do what I can to help him out. It's my fault, and I've learned my lesson!!!

Well, it seems that I have received the worng parts. When I bought the parts off of eBay a year or so ago, I thought I bought CBR 1000RR forks, what I got wans't CBR 1000RR Forks. Fortunately thay didn't cost too much. So this past Friday, I purchased another set of CBR 1000RR Forks, and actually talked to the guy on the phone. Once they come in, it should be a direct drop in swap. Easier, but this little mistake has cost me 2 months + of good riding time.Oh well, I can't really be mad at anyone except myself, as I should have veryfied the measurements prior tp dropping the forks at tmy mechanic. As good as he is, he can't fit 41mm fork bottoms on 43mm fork tubes.

The diameter of the stanchions doesn't necessarily correlate to the diameter of the outer tube (which is the part that clamps into the triples). However, based on press releases (always a bit dangerous, in my opinion), the RR's stanchions have always been (and as of 2010, still were) the same diameter as the USD 'Blade stanchions: 43mm. And checking on Ron Ayers, although there was a significant change in 2008, even the 2010 'Blade uses the same slider bushings as the Y2k 900RR, which tells me that the stanchion diameter has not changed. (The conventional-forked CBR900RRs had 45mm OD stanchions.) Ciao, Thanks for re-assuring me that I wasn't crazy!!! I thought that pretty much all recent inner fork tubes for the CBR 929/954/1000 were all 43mm. I plan on going to see my mechanic this afternoon, and see what the issue is, thanks again!!!

I honestly can't remember, as it's been over 3 months since I've seen them. I don't want shorter forks though, as I like the way my VFR handels with the 954 forks. Those were already shorter than the stock forks, and I like the way they make my VFR handle. So, basically if I get 06-07 forks, they'll be of similiar length, and fit in the 954 triple clamps, both upper and lower? I just want to make sure that I get this right this time, as I've already missed out on 2 months of riding. Thanks for the assistance!!!

Does anyone know if CBR 1000RR Forks will fit in CBR 954 Upper and Lower triple clamps? I was having my mechanic swap out the fork bottoms from CBR 1000RR forks to my CBR 954 forks, but he said that they won't fit, as the 1000RR fork tubes are 45mm, and the 954 tubes are 43mm. So I pretty much have all the parts except for good forks now. I don't necessarily want to get a whole new/complete set-up if I don't have to. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!!

The bike looks really good!!! As far as the shift light goes, I have mine programmed to come on 500 RPM before it redlines , right around 11,000 RPM . That way in case I'm a little slow or lazy, I won't be bouncing the motor off of the rev limiter.

Looks good!!! What type of rear sets are those, and where did you get them?

They are located a little more than an hour from where I lie, and they have pretty good customer service. I talked to one of the factory reps at the InterMot show n cologne this past November about getting a custom set of rear sets, and they said no poblem, just call for an appointment, and they'll see what they can do. They have pretty high quality stuff. As far as clip-ons are concerned, I got mine from www.oncycles.com. I think that they were made for a Hayabusa, but they fit really well. As far as the steering geometery goe, I have CBR 954 forks with the gull wing top triple clamp. Yes, the forks are shorter, and will quicken up the steering quite a bit. I hve had my VFR to 165 mph (indicated, not accurate) on the track, and did not have any high speed stability issues. The mod is definitely well worth it in my opinion. There are so many different ways to solve the few issues that come up, such as clip-ons, that you can almost do anything that your pocketbook will allow!!!

:lurk: You know what I'm looking for, and what's in the works...

Ok, so with an aftermarket air filter such as K&N, or a UNI Filter, a full aftermarket exhaust (Headers, and cannister) and a jet kit, what is the approximate horsepower gain over stock? I have all 3, just haven't installed them yet, as I'm looking at other mods aswell. I'm guessing 5-8 horsepower over stock, but again, that's just a guess.

As far as I know, they are brand specific. A Yamaha pedal won't fit on a Suzuki ( feel free to substitute brands), as the splines are different in the spacing of theridges where the pedal mounts. You might want to try Dennis Kirk for a replacement.

Thanks for the comment. I made the mirrors small, but replaced the flat mirrors with convex glass for a better field of view. I have the bar ends as turns, and think that I will leave the mirror's amber LEDs at constantly on for better cage visibility. The arms were machined out of 6061. I could get a bigger piece and shape them using radius cutters or I could just get a piece of round. Their profile is small enough that I don't worry about turbulence. neither from the mirror or the mount. I read about motorcycle aerodynamics one time. Stated was that a brick with one end rounded would be more aerodynamic trailing the smooth than leading the airflow, all based on the turbulence. I am going to run some tests for vibrations and have some hair brained idea to use water as the dampening element. If I get that far I will show it. I was thinking of an airfoil type design more for aesthetics than for any aerodynamic properties that might be gained. How visible are the bar end signals, they're pretty cool, but again, I'm not so good with running wires and getting things like that to work. I have regular delrin type bar ends, but I do track days on my VFR, so it's more of a protective thing, but I do like that idea as well.

Those look really cool!!! Streamlined and functional!!! I like the color, and adjust-ability, plus with the turn signals up so high, it should make it easier for the cagers to see you in their rear view mirrors. You said that you weren't sure about blinking, or steady on. If you have room, why not put the clear LED's below some orange LED's. The orange ones could be used for turn signals. I'm terrible with electronics, so I'm not sure how that could be managed. I'd have it set so that the white/clear LED's would go off when the ornage turn signals came on, hopefully increasing visibility. How difficult would it to make the support arms in an airfoil shape?