cozye

There initial run of V6 model wheels had some issues. They also had some issues with the powdercoating company they were working with. All of these problems were resolved long ago, and the vstar wheels have had zero issues. I've sold a bunch of them and have not had any complaints. I've also not read or heard of anyone complaining online about carrozzeria with any of the current model wheels. The v6's were discontinued.

Anyone on here check out the GoPro Hero Wide angle cameras? I've been selling a bunch of them to the WERA guys. Cool camera. Cheap. Flash based. Waterproof. 5MP. And they actually have good sound.

Depends on how fast you run. A real fast race pace will demand a bit stiffer suspension, but if you are running intermediate pace I'd go with the softer setup. You don't want it too stiff that you can't get your sag numbers correct and not using all of the suspensions travel. Spring rate shouldn't change as much as the dampening settings though when you pick up the pace. On the front you could split the difference with the springs by putting the 9 in one side and the 1.0 on the other side. Wont' help you on the rear though.

I had a very poor experience with them as well. I bought a 1 piece Teknic leather suit from them on closeout for my wife, but it was too large. I called and asked to exchange it, but told them I needed to have it in 5 days to get it in time for a track day we were doing. He said no problem, he would ship it out and then when we returned to just send the other one back. I point blank asked him if there would be any restocking fee to do this and he said no. So fast forward a week and a half, I sent the other suit back they charged me a 15% restocking fee plus deducted the original shiping amount from the refund. When I called in and spoke to the guy, he did not remember our previous conversation, said that there was no way I could have spoken to anyone else. He said I was mistaken and there is no way he would have told me that. He said the only way I would have avoided a restocking fee was if I shipped the other suit back and asked for a store credt, waited like a couple weeks for them to credit my account and then ordered a new suit. He was very rude about it and would not budge. Service was very poor. New enough FTW.. I'd rather pay them more if I had too. New enough would have let me return the suit and gave me a 110% refund to cover shipping. I've done it with them several times.

My map lives !! It's cool to check in to the site from time to time and you guys are still loving it!

I'm an Arai dealer :unsure: The RR5 is due to arrive in December or January. It's only available in the US. Arai still does not allow ebay sales and will not honor Warranty on any helmet bought on ebay. They revoke dealer accounts all the time for that. They do allow online sales now but you have to be an Authorized E-Dealer. I can usually match prices with just about anyone.

If you use the right static balancer with low friction bearings, it will be more accurate than a computer balancer. All the race teams use static balance. It doesn't matter if the right side or the left side of the tire is out of balance because the tire is not spinning from side to side. It only moves in one direction so you only need to add the weight to the center of the rim. Car tires are much wider and usually are mounted offset so it can make a difference on a car rim. Also, dyna beads may be fine for the street. At the track they are not great however. Every time you slam on the brakes to enter a turn it throws the beads off and the tire is out of balance until you get back up to speed. I've heard of people say that it took about 5 seconds after getting back up to speed for the tire to balance after hitting a tight turn.

Yeah, dyno could be off 7 or 8 hp. Also, keep in mind one thing that I've learned lately doing a lot of tuning using wideband commanders and my new Bazzaz performance unit on my CBR. The leaner maps will produce the top HP, but they are also very bad for longevity on a motor. A good friend of mine is a Honda mechanic and also knows some top tuners in AMA, as well as having access to Dan Kyle, Bruce, etc.. They all said that top HP is produced around 13.6 - 13.8 AFR, but race teams rebuild their motors every few races. All the top guys recommend running a street motor somewhere around 12.8 - 13.1 AFR. Will produce a couple HP less but will be much easier on the the motor. Another thing that is interesting is that they aren't tunning for the same AFR all the way across the board. I quote my buddy below to save on typing "Well I just got an o2 bung welded onto my stock exhaust and the guy who did it is semi retired only works 2 half days per week. He used to build race bikes for Honda canada back when they raced. He started talking to me casually about what I was doing and I laid all my cards on the table with where we are at. He says you need two diferent target a/f ratios. You want 12.8 to 13.00 at your peak torque and then from there you want to gradually get richer down to 11.8 till peak rpms. As he was describing that to me at first I thought this guys fucked, but then I remembered your oe map looked like that as well. So I asked him why and he started talking about thermal efficieny getting worse at higher rpms and ignition advance changes and other stuff it basically all went over my head. But I thought I'd pas along what I heard. Interestingly enough the original dynojet map made by dusty for our aratas does what this guy was telling me. It seems there is so much more to all this then the chat boards have any idea about." Food for thought anyway. I've been doing quite a bit of tuning on my CBR. It will be some time before I have "the perfect map" on this bad boy but it sure is fun trying. Now that I have wideband and an o2 sensor along with mapping capabilities including a handle mounted toggle switch to switch between maps .. LOL

the blueant is mono only, so music would be its downfall.

So how do you like the blueant, and do you use earplugs and still hear it well ?

do you guys use ear plugs? I've thought about getting some sort of system to communicate with the wife but I always felt that I wouldn't be able to hear. Also, check out blueant. They have a bluetooth noise canceling system thats $125 and gets great reviews. You can use the bluetooth intercom for about 490 feet, or hands free cellular. I'm thinking about getting that if I can verify its loud enough.

damn boy, when you just going to get a proper bike fast enough for you :fing02:

I've got the JR Pro. It's a great changer. I'm sure the classic is all you need though. Super easy to use. I wouldn't live without it.

I bought a nomar tire changer, and change my own tires now. No scratches. Free tire changes. It comes with a bunch of free friends too, no extra charge.. :warranty:

You don't have to hide it from her.. lol.. Just tell her its stuff for the bike, or 2 nights 6 hookers and a hell of a time in vegas and she can choose .. LOL..

I have no problem using your bike as a sexy model.. I've actually started collecting pics for a "customers bikes" section of the site that I will be adding. :thumbsup:

Yes, you can fit the set to your 5th gen. If you can talk them into selling you an F4 wheel with the VFR rear, you can experiment with fitting your sensor ring... they don't make an f4 wheel.

It looks to me like a machine shop could drill and tap the new rotors to fit the ABS ring. The other part of the equation is that the rotor on the F4i probably has a different offset than the VFR rotor, which would be why they don't use VFR rotors on the wheel kit to begin with. I would speculate that the front wheel is actually the same wheel used on the F4i, so that the wheel is machined for the offset of the f4i rotors. I'm sure it probably would not be that difficult to get the abs ring to work. You would use a little machining, or a little spacing to get everything to line up and you should be golden. That might be more work than it is worth for some people. Sebspeed, CZ has already informed me they are F4i rotors, not f4.

does someone have a close up pic of the ABS ring they can post so that i can visualize what the deal is? I may inquire about it some more and find out if anyone has actually tried it, or if they are just saying it won't work because they don't know.

I have no idea what it would take to do the ABS. Could be something really simple. I wish I could help more, but without having the wheels and an ABS bike in front of me I would only be guessing.

hmm,, don't know about that. Seems like it might be easier to figure out how to make the abs ring work with the spacing and the f4i rotors.

So, why couldn't you keep your stock rotors then? Is the bolt pattern different or something? The offset on the rotor carrier must be different. They are using F4i rotors on the wheel kit.

More info guys. Just found out that Carrozzeria claims that the ABS ring will not work with this kit.. bummer. I know that mattered to some.