Ranger77

If you're just gonna throw away your PCV and autotune, you can always put them in a bottle and let them float my way. I'll put them to good use.

I was thinking of getting one but didn't like the price. Guess this gives me another reason to wait.

Here's the 5th gen.

Instead of a long hose being the reservoir, I'd get a brake fluid reservoir or something in that nature. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-99-00-01-VFR-800-VFR800-REAR-BRAKE-FLUID-RESERVOIR-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb02ae29dQQitemZ260653638301QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mini-Brake-Reservoir-Oil-Cup-KAWASAKI-ZX-6R-ER-6N-6F-63-/280572614757?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41536e5865

Old thread I know. I noticed you said the teflon was worn off on the bushings. I read a lot of how-to's before I changed my fluid and from your pic they look good. The bottom bushing as the teflon on the outside and the smaller/upper bushing has the teflon on the inside. The copper color on the outside of the smaller one is normal.

I'm not doubting you, just makes me wonder why if it doesn't seem to hurt rubber? Beats me. I dunked two little sleeve type carbs for a 80 degree single piston engine. The aluminum looks like lead weights. Made the aluminum slippery and just rubbed off on my glove.

Be careful if you use this on old carbs that are the grey cast aluminum ones. I let a couple soak and after a few days I took them out. It made the aluminum to start rubbing off. You can always boil carbs. http://www.randakks.com/TechTip52.htm

Lovin the Duc butt.

I emailed Dynojet to see if the VFR should really use the Autotune AT-200 kit that comes with two O2 sensors since that's what we have. With one, you're just picking up only two cylinders.

Has anybody with an ABS model every hook up an electrical reader to the ABS to see what kind of power it pulls when in use/not in use?

So this should work with a 5th gen too shouldn't it? Same main throttle body connector, also have an electronic speed sensor and can also hook up to the temp gauge.

He probably doesn't have a tripod. You can't stick one hand's finger down the tbody with out the other one opening the butterfly and turning the key on.

Yea. They look more "vehicle" type.

My '01 injector bottom ends are way different in shape.

Ran Rotella Triple protection 15w-40 in my vfr and ER-6N with no problems this summer. Now that the cold is hitting, I'm back to using Honda syn w/ moly 10w-40. Only get the moly stuff here. I've put 20k miles with it and no problems.

My Kawasaki ER-6N is a [5] type filter. The kawasaki oem filter uses media like the yamaha filters instead of folded pleats. I'll remind myself to take measurements.

Just placed an order with keith. He did save me a bunch. I had 12 items and total was $202 shipped. Went onto hondaparts-dirct and just the water pump, rad cap, and 4 insulstors was $200. Discounts rock! I didnt want to replace my water pump but i jinxed myself after telling someone it hasnt weeped in a year. Now its doing it again. I thought this bike was suppose to last forever. LOL

Is Ralph still the guy I need to talk to? I got a list of oem parts I need to get. Hondaparts-direct.com is back online (well its been back online) and I've ordered from them before, but they charge sales tax for Texas.

Time to temporary mount the RC cooler. The mount on the cooler is more offset than the stock one. It'll be a little closer to the right rad. Here's the fun tedious fun part. Bending the lines to fit. You'll be pulling them out and putting back multiple times. The right one I used a rubber mallet. I placed the right oil line on the ground with the cooler mount upward. I smacked it down with the mallet. No science there. The left side you have to twist the oil cooler line where it bolts to the cooler. I used a pair of pliers and my manly strength. Of course a vise would have made it easier. Once they're lined up as good as possible, get the engine side ready. The middle o-ring is what I used. I also used one smaller one to fit inside that one. Double the sealing. LOL Bolt the oil cooler lines on first, then bolt the cooler to it's brackets second, and last bolt the engine side of the oil lines. The right side does have a slight problem. Since the line is lowered from the oil rad being taller. The left side has no problem with hitting anything.

Got her done. Loosened the stock cooler and let it hang. I was hoping I wouldn't but I had to drain the oil. I tried using an 8mm wrench, but the bolt started stripping. Had to get a socket on them. Once the oil drains, then you can unbolt the oil lines from the engine. Left side. Right side. Luckily the O-rings look brand new. Not even smashed. Might as well wash the lines. Just tiny spot rust here and there. Maybe I'll order new ones or have them powder coated.

I think 5th gen is 2 row, and 6th gen, a 3 row. -- Veefer800Canuck installed a 2nd gen 3 row on his 5th gen, dunno if he's still running it. I'm gonna stick with my original post.

The 00-01. They are silver and only one port is twisted. The 02-06 are black and both ports are twisted like the 6th gen's. Here's the three Honda's. From top to bottom. 5th gen - 6th gen - RC51 ('00-'01) 5th gen cooler 6th gen RC51 As you can see. The ports are a tad bigger. GSXR 1000

Got my RC51 cooler in the mail today. its the same with as the vfr's, but is 5 rows instead of 3. Also got a 6th gen oil cooler in. I'll try to do a test for each one but one promises. Since I dont have an oil cooler gauge all I can go by is the coolant gauge and using a thermal temp gauge. I do have a GSXR 1000, but I'll use it as a last resort. It's a lot bigger and I'll have to cut the oil lines.

Tried to use the pm system but it wont work on my droid. Will you sell those oil cooler adapters that bolt to the oil pan seperate? How about the water oil cooler?

You'd need to find a really really low psi pump for your carb setup. EFI systems usually run from 45psi to 60psi.