kaldek

OK so if it's sluggish even at WOT and high rpm then it's definitely being massively over fuelled and the problem is not, say, your MAP sensor. At WOT, the ECU is Alpha-N and ignores the MAP sensor, so the fuel metering at that point is controlled purely by: Cam Pulse generator for injector timing Throttle Position sensor (The "Alpha" in Alpha-N) Ignition Pulse Generator for Engine rpm (The "N" in Alpha-N) Fuel trimmed by: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Intake Air Temperature (IAT) How to test your ECT: Check VTEC activates. If so, ECT is working because ECT controls whether VTEC will work or not (65 degrees C). How to test your IAT: Unplug it. Ride around ignoring the FI code caused by a disconnected IAT and see if the bike runs better Cam pulse generator and Ignition Pulse generator failures are rare to the point of being unheard of. I replaced both of mine while tracking down problems and the changes made no difference. What were the results of your Fuel pressure test and how did you go about it?

Yeah it's a hard engine to turn from the wheel. Remove the right-side engine cover inspection bolt and turn the crank using a 14mm socket. Tell me what's the power like at WOT - pretty good, feels fine or feeling like it's being held back?

You will only get error codes from water in the gasoline IF the ECU has the ability to detect misfires, which the VFR ECU does not - it's practically brain dead from a diagnostics perspective. The codes shown in that YouTube video are from an OBDII compliant ECU.

Since your bike is a VFR1200 which uses a fly by wire throttle, it's not opening the actual throttle valve all the way because the bike isn't running. I recall a similar problem with the Power Commander fitment for the 1200F. Anyone else want to chip in with the solution? As best I can tell it requires getting the bike on the dyno so you can safely open and hold open the throttle so that the ECU actually adjusts the throttle plate to 100% open. You could *technically* do the same thing on the road with a passenger holding a laptop hooked up to the JuiceBox hooked up, while pinning the throttle in 6th gear for a few seconds from a low speed. They'd need strong nerves though!

For reference purposes, my 2002 VFR started exhibiting a weak stator and then I took it to the track. The sustained high speed runs cooked it and it died shortly after. The higher the engine rpm, the more current shunted back into the stator and the more heat generated.

Your mileage is so bad I don't see it as a fuel measurement problem, it really looks mechanical failure of a fuel injection component. So, assuming your problems aren't caused by incorrect fuel *metering* by the ECU, let's look for some mechanical failures. Check for problems with the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm for starters. Pull off the regulator vacuum hose with the engine running and see if any fuel leaks out of the regulator. If it does, it's stuffed. I would also check the actual fuel pressure (warning - requires pressure testing kit and special bolt from Honda to create a T-junction in the high pressure fuel line). Pressure regulators are cheap, so don't worry if yours is busted. But PLEASE use good safety around fuel. Fuel pissing out of a busted regulator onto a hot engine is not my idea of a good time. Also check for leaking fuel injectors. If they're leaking, fuel will come out when they are closed - see my video below on how to do that.

Yeah that stator's burned itself up alright.

No, it cannot be the relay. If it was the relay you would be blowing fuses even when you indicated to the right. The flasher is not a relay as such, it's actually more a small integrated circuit with a high amperage digitally controlled switch inside it. If you stick your ear up against it, there is no ticking sound symbolic of a relay. Anyway the "relay" only has an input wire and output wire. Which circuit the output wire goes to is controlled by your indicator switch, so the "relay" is shared by both circuits. If your bike also has a hazard switch (for flashing all indicators at once), there will be a bunch of diodes and another "Turn Position Relay" as well which allow both indicator circuits to be activated. All of this stuff is mounted just behind the dashboard, so if you need to get to where the flasher is you'll need to remove the front fairing. The Turn Position Relay - not likely to be your problem - has 9 wires going to it. Yeah, it's a complicated wiring job JUST to make the hazard lights work!

Bulbs themselves can short circuit internally - I've seen it happen plenty on these low wattage globes. Take the bulb out and then use the left indicator - does it still blow the fuse? If not, the problem is in the bulb and you just need to buy a new one.

Sounds like one of those problems where the mechanic spends 8 hours trying to figure out a 10 minute job.

Get the front fairing off mate, and disconnect the dashboard connector. Sounds to me like they just didn't push the dash connector in properly and it's come loose. Or they possibly damaged it during assembly.

Ugh. As an owner of a K1300R I'm mortified! It looks crap without the Hossack front end.

Good to know my videos are still out there helping folks even though I've moved onto BMWs... Anyway, the engine braking was one of my FAVOURITE things about my VFR. I used to love slamming it down a gear from high revs and just letting the bike slow me down while roaring its head off. *Especially* in traffic! The sound of a VFR with aftermarket pipes on the overrun is something I will miss forever. Even after ten years, my 2002 VFR800 still turned heads with its fat baby-eight exhaust note. If only the fuel injection wasn't so wonky... Also worth pointing out that I believe Ducati controls engine braking in the new Panigale motor by keeping the valves open on the overrun (I think it was exhaust valves). Doesn't help with the VFR of course, but people have solutions to the problem out there.

You'll get some great skills out of this. Ultimately testing of DC wiring systems is a simple endeavour and only appears complex because it's hard to visualise which wires go where.

Either your fuel sender plug (blue plug underneath tank) has become disconnected or corroded, or the float inside the tank has failed somehow. It's also worth checking the continuity between the gray/blue wire all the way from the plug under the tank to the sub harness on the front-left of the bike. The way the fuel sender works is it takes a +12 volt signal as input and based on the fuel level the resistance in the sender changes. The signal from the fuel tank is therefore either really close to 12 volts (full), zero volts (empty) or somewhere in between. I have spares if you find a physical faulty and need cheap parts.

I did some measurements on my bike when it had an '06 ECU on it and confirmed that the PAIR valves are always open unless the ECU goes into closed loop mode. So if you have put in O2 eliminators, the bike never goes closed loop and you would not suffer any fuel consumption issues by disconnecting the PAIR valve solenoid. If you plug the PAIR valves or block them with plates, they are obviously always closed and you need to tweak the idle speed to compensate for the difference in airflow. Some folks (like myself) also found that the engine was more troublesome with PAIR disabled - particularly on my '06 ECU.

An all too common problem. Replace the 30 amp fuse holder with an aftermarket weatherproof unit and some heavy gauge wire. Clean up all the starter relay contacts real good and use some Ox-Guard to keep corrosion away. You've had some melt damage to the wiring harness that connects to the relay - you may have to live with that or splice in a replacement connector. I have a couple of wiring harnesses lying around I'd be willing to chop up for you.

Video has been removed.

Wow I guess the fact that I can mount that tire with no bead damage now means I'm a pro! LOL Anyway I've got some Pilot Road 2's heading my way from Jake Wilson. They're pretty easy to mount.

No wax huh? Well whaddya know. They must just call it that for historical purposes.

Well I managed to master it without needing wooden blocks. The trick, as it turned out, was to use a tie down strap to hold the rim to the mounting tool (as seen in the Mojolever instructions) and to use more lube. This allowed me to apply more pressure to the lever with more effect whilst only using one hand and with no movement of the rim in the tool at all. This freed up my left hand to push the tire down into the center of the rim. Pretty happy actually because the tire I was practising with is a Bridgesone BT-021 - they are NOTORIOUS for being extremely stiff in the sidewall and hard to mount. If you can fit one of these tires you can fit anything!

Hey lads I just bought a tire changing tool similar to the ones shown here. I have a question though - do any of you stick wooden blocks in between the rim and tyre to keep the opposite side to the mojo/no-mar lever under the bead?

Hang on, you've totally left out where this thing connects to the bike! I assume it piggy backs the injector harness, but what does it piggyback for the ignition timing?

I used Dynabeads for two years in my 6th-gen, no complaints. That was with tire pressure sensors strapped to the rim too, so balance was a huge issue for me (sensors weighed over 50 grams). f you have the kit at home to do static balancing, by all means use weights. I do all my own tire work and don't have a static balancer so I just use the beads. I did get vibration on the front wheel at one point, so I just added more beads - problem solved. The complaints about Dynabeads regarding bumps are not justified. If you hit a bump, the force of the bump is nowhere near as much as the force which is throwing the beads out to inside surface of the tire. I would not use the beads in a racecar however, as the high lateral G-forces *could* throw the beads out to the sidewall and stop them from being as effective.

As a man who owns a bike with an alternator now....... I shall say nothing!!!! Amen to that! One of the worst things I ever did on my VFR was work on the bike with the engine idling at the headlights disconnected. The regulator got so hot I couldn't touch it.