kaldek

You're probably right. I wonder why the part code for the '03 changed mid-way through the year though. Odd.

There are various Exhaust Servo eliminator modules you can buy. I have one fitted to my CBR1000RR track bike made by a guy named Pat Fruth. They generally cost around $25. Not sure if the CBR one will work on the VFR1200.

I love the 'tunes on my 6th-gen but the best sounding pipe I ever heard was a Madaz on a 5th-gen. I like a mix of rasp and bass and this pipe had the whole package. It was also mentally loud.

The cooling fan system in later model bikes is not controlled by an electro-mechanical sensor but rather by the ECU based on the reading it receives from the ECT sensor. I have a 2005 CBR1000RR track bike which used to switch the fan on at 50 degrees C coolant temperature and it would come on and go off at what seemed like odd intervals. My best estimation after thinking about it, is that the ECU monitors not only the current temperature but the rate of change. If the temperature is increasing higher than a specific rate, it kicks in the fan to slow that rate increase down. I'd hazard a guess this is more likely on new engines as they're still a bit tight. Even my dad said his 1997 VFR from new ran really hot and the frame itself was hot to the touch. Once it had a few thousand miles on it there was less heat soak. Older bikes (VFR800 and earlier) use an electromechanical switch to activate the cooling fan, so they will basically come on at 100 degrees or so and switch off when the temperature falls below that. Those systems are actually higher risk because while the ECT sensor is connected to the engine block the cooling fan switch is mounted right at the top of the radiator. If your coolant is low, the switch may not read 100 degrees and your cooling fan may not come on even though the engine is overheating.

For reliability, can't go past the OEM stator but there are alternatives such as those from Wire My Bike. Depends what your engine number is - needs to be 2503808 or later as the part code changed at that point. Prior to that you might have the smaller flywheel/stator combo and need a new flywheel as well. You can measure the outer diameter of your existing stator to confirm. Old (small/underpowered) stator is 107mm outer diameter, new (improved) stator is 114mm outer diameter. If you need to pull the flywheel, use this tool from Motion Pro. It's about ten bucks. If you DO need the flywheel and stator, Honda sells the combined kit for $290. It's part number 31100-MCW-325. FYI, if you do have the smaller flywheel and put the bigger stator in there without replacing the flywheel, you will smash stuff to pieces and possibly even bend your crankshaft. Anywhere you like, but the MOSFET units are an improvement. Buy the FH012 model and order the connector set from Eastern Beaver.

Yup, gotta squeeze the connector before it will come off. You'll feel where it can be squeezed fairly quickly.

Hi folks, HealTech electronics have released their OBD tool for the Honda EFI (ECU) unit as fitted to 2006 and newer VFRs (also any Honda bike with the 4-pin DLC connector). I've ordered one from them and will make a video on its capabilities when it arrives, but you can download the software program now, and load some sample recordings It's great - exactly what I was looking for. It tracks in realtime (and records) the following data: Engine speed Vehicle speed Intake air temperature Engine coolant temperature Manifold Pressure Throttle Position Battery Voltage Injector pulse width O2 sensor voltages O2 sensor heating element state Short term fuel trim values for each cylinder bank (finally we know the bike only has a Short-term trim!!) Bank angle sensor PAIR valve solenoid state Flapper valve solenoid state EVAP solenoid state Side stand switch state Engine stop switch state Fan switch state Bank angle sensor state VTEC valve solenoid state Starter switch state Gear position switch state FI lamp state It also shows you live ECU OBD errors in the software, some of which I'm hoping are the ones that don'tt cause the FI light to flash. This will aid problem diagnosis greatly.

I don't buy it. If it was doing that it wouldn't be generating ANY volts.

Also, sounds like your mechanic is a bit of a muppet.

Overcharging has nothing to do with the stator, that's controlled by the regulator! The stator puts out anywhere between 24 and 100+ volts AC, the rectifier converts that to DC and the regulator circuit drops the voltage down to 14 volts. If your bike is charging at 15+ volts, your regulator is bad or you have a poor electrical connection between the regulator and the wiring harness and battery.

Starter clutch failure will result in the starter motor spinning (the "vizzzz" noise) but not turning the motor over. Different problem to what you're describing. In case you don't know what an unloaded starter motor sounds like, you can hear it by pressing the starter button when the bike is running. The sound is quite distinctive.

I would definitely say your wax unit sounds stuck. This can be easily checked! All you need to do is adjust the idle screw (right-hand side of bike). When the bike is idling too high with a hot engine, turn the idle screw one full rotation anti-clockwise. Record if the idle speed drops. Return idle screw back to prior position. If the idle speed does not respond adjustments of the idle speed screw, your fast idle wax unit is stuck. The fast idle unit begins to contract at around 50 degrees C of coolant temperature. If it's clogged up the idle speed won't drop until heat soak does the same job the coolant was supposed to do. I recommend watching my video on how fast idle wax units work too:

I don't think the R/R can be immediately pinpointed. I would perform the full electrosport fault finding process becuase it could well be the stator which is weak rather than the R/R about to fry itself. *Some* amount of brightening is normal; in fact many owners manuals state that the lights should increase in brightness a little off idle because 14.7 volts may not be possible until, say, 2,000rpm. Under that it may only generate 13 volts or so, which is still enough to charge the battery. However as with any bulb if you increase the volts you increase the brightness so the jump from 13 volts to 14.7 volts can be seen. Essentially you should hook up a multimeter and watch the voltages. If the voltage is over 13.2 volts when the lights are dim, and peak at about 14.5-14.7 volts when they're bright there is nothing wrong with your bike.

Yup, just measure the voltage at the battery terminals. Charging voltage should always be 14-14.7 volts. Don't stress if it's hovering at 13.9 volts at idle, but you do want to see a healthy 14.5volts at 5,000rpm.

If you're considering a Screaming Banshee, this video will show you how and where to install it. Note that it's specific to the non-ABS model bike and a different location would be required if your bike has ABS. Another member mounted theirs to the stock horn location, but anywhere under the fairing will work. Your only limits will be cable lengths but you can always increase those as needed.

Yeah I just fitted mine not an hour ago. I'll post a video in the next day or so, but since mine is non-ABS you can guess where I mounted it!!! Side note: It is extremely loud! Just what the doctor ordered.

Isn't that what happens to coolant when it sits? Although I suppose it could have been an entire tank of gas drained into the cylinder and left to...ferment. Anyway looks fixable to me! Make sure piston rings are OK, hone the bores, regrind the valve seats. Anyone else think so?

What. The. Eff. And I thought my problems were complex. Cutting ground wires to trace faults? Wow. Serious time.

The Honda is cheaper than the BMW? That's a nice change. There's barely any difference here in Australia.

Folks, AMCN has a copy of a British review of the new VFR1200X Crosstourer. Specs are also available I see and it's listed as a 21.5 litre tank! So who's gonna be the first bloke to try fitting one of those to his VFR1200F?? The engine has been massively detuned down to 120HP, but with more torque (different cams). It also doesn't use radial mounted calipers. AMCN says it's been aimed directly at the Ducati Multistrada. It has TCS as well as ABS. Dashboard has trip computer with distance to empty and I believe also fuel consumption. Specs here: http://motorcycles.h...ouring/VFR1200X

I'm regretting ever posting in this thread because it appears I know NOTHING about coils!

That is highly, highly unlikely. It's not a Ducati Panegale S, it's a ten year old VFR! So, someone copying my key based on my video and then tracking me down to steal my bike (which they will know has been in pieces and had lots of problems - based on my other videos)? Nah, there are easier targets on every street corner in Melbourne. Just because something is possible doesn't mean it's going to happen. Risk management is my day job, so I do lots of things people think are crazy because either A) the possible outcome is negligible or B) the likelihood is extremely low.

They're all made by Shindengen, even the Honda ones. The Shindengen FH012AA (MOSFET) is commonly considered the best upgrade. Here's a kit you can buy: http://www.ebay.com....#ht_1521wt_1163 P.S. Nothing wrong with eBay. It's essentially become a digital storefront rather than an auction house now anyway. Just make sure you check the returns policy and the seller's rating.

Time for a hot engine stator output test as per the fault finding diagram.