vfr1200f

We've been installing Prez's ECC on three bikes last saturday, two crosstourers with DCT (2017 and 2018) and my F manual model (2014). We opted for two new 3-button controllers and one ECC had to be moved from my friend's new bike to his old one (he had already one with 4buttons). Everything went great, the install took all day (on 3 bikes, 2 new and one swap). I just put my controller under the base of the tank, where the evap tank sits on euro4 models, but mine had no evap. I avoided installing it near the abs modulator (right side) as it blocks the air streamline to the airbox. The evap tank location was perfect for me and we added some soft "spongy" material to keep it from rattling or moving within the space. The cables were long enough to allow repositioning. I took my bike for a ride today as it was very cold until now (below and just above freezing).. The bike took a little longer to start, probably due to removal of the tank and the fuel lines getting air into them. I let it supply the gas several times and after a very long push of the button it finally started. Usually it starts instantly. It ran a little bit in 3 cylinders but things turned smooth soon. I was starting to have my doubts, i must admit. When pulling the clutch with the system ON it just over-revs by 1000-1500 rpms but it's well kept under control. The clutch and brakes disengage the system, hard acceleration also cuts the system. Now everything works great (as advertised), bike starts normal, the ECC is bloody excellent, i can give my right hand a rest on long runs. I bow in front of you, Prez. Thank you! Just a few pics, there was no time for taking more! Later edit: the crosstourer forum links above do not work anymore, they require login to their website.

66 :))) i think you need just a little bit more than the usual T-shirt! Having 66 deg all the year would be bloody awesome. I went outside riding at 46 deg so, yeah, 66 would be lovely. Every biker here in europe (except it's southern part) is waiting for the winter months to end. Even without heated grips/seats/gloves it's remarkable what proper layers can provide for short rides.

Do you have any info on the Taction Control ON or OFF on the vfr? The "right leg out" must have been due to sand/dust on the ground. Happy ending video for the vfr but with similar riders, the busa would win, especially with that stretched arm.

Great looking bike... looks like new 😛 ... i'm just teasing ya'. Also, i noticed it's a DCT. Enjoy!

He already HAS that new "old" part on the bike. The bike may be used as I immagine the dealer does a delivery pre-check anyway and the inspection of the drive shaft would be one the checkpoints for them considering the issued recall... in a perfect world...

The Vfr 1200 F is discontinued since 2016. There is no newer model year so it should be a leftover unit. There's no big deal applying the recall prior or after the delivery even if the bike has the "old" part on it. It's not gonna fail instantly. Just enjoy the bike!

They do wear black, but they are less visible on the street! It's not a "Man In Black" contest, it's about being visible. ✌️ I confirm, the paint code is usually under the seat.

Yes, I was referring above to riding a 2017 VFR X model. I tried to edit the text but it shows no message to edit, only the reason of editing.

I did testride last year a 2017 model that one of my buddies has. It was a new bike, test occured after the run-in period, maybe it had around 10k km's onboard. Powerwise it felt slower and too bland, it was my first time on DCT, the engine does not feel so tractive. I like the top end that the F model has. Wind protection is good, better than that of the F model, but it should be expected to be better. I would say it meets the expectations. Heat did not feel an issue but i rode it only outside of the cities so it may not be a balanced opinion. It is a good bike overall, i expected a little more on the engine side, maybe this is also due to the liniarity honda puts into it's engines. I would make the swap only if more ergonomics and long-journey comfort are heavily needed than on the F model. Otherwise, no. Just no. My buddy, on the other hand, just loves his X bike. He bought a 2018 model now, his 2017 was totalled when hit by a car (rider ok). He would not change it for any other bike. I think the bike suits him, he is a little older than me, at 50+ years old.

It happened once to me to have no upper LED dash lights working, no short beam, no turnsignal indicator, nor high beam. The dials were fine, also fuel, temp meters, speed and trip computer working. I noticed that the turn signal indicators were not showing on the dashboard and stopped to check the bike. I tried some ignition off, then on and restart but to no avail several times. I did only push down some black boxes under the seat, near the battery. There was a "click" with one of them, everything went back to normal and no problems since. I hope it helps. The situation did not replicate since, as always, being at home and close to a repair shop "scares" the problems off. 🙂

That's not the oil temp but coolant temperature (water). Oil temp gets up slower than that of the coolant so i would leave it in D for a little more. I have oil temp in my car and it climbs a lot slower than water temp.

For the 2012 model also add these to the differences list: + seat material is changed, less slippery now, maybe better wear resistance near the tank + trip computer units can be changed from L/100km to km/L + trip computer displays also "liters left" countdown until 0.9liters then switches to two dashes "- -" (i am referring to the european version here). Filling at "- -" usually gets 17.6liters on the pump. Tripmeters A and B have their separate fuel consumption averages, resetting one tripmeter resets also corresponding fuel average, similar to cars. Average consumption for 2014 model is 7.4 L/100km for 7200km with 50% city driving Long trip is 6.0-6.1 which is fair for what it offers.

I've ridden in 38 degrees Celsius (~101F) this July 1st. I had full leather as usual and it felt like boiling, high temps coming on the face and checked my feet while riding to see if they actually caught fire! The viffer twelve was not bothered by the heat. Water temp stayed at usual level, which is with 3 lit blocks. At lower outside temps it lits 2 blocks. I give credibility to the temp sensor only after a few kms of riding. If the bike is warm and stays parked for a while the temp always goes above 40C due to engine heat. I have to ride it 1-2km to allow the temp to settle to the real value. I did a quick stop while riding just for taking the picture.

Sorry to bring up an old post. I have a problem following an oil change. Also, i want to ask what is the correct method to check the engine oil level? My bike has a main stand. Some background info: I had it overfilled by a stealership (did coolant change also) and noticed it at home as the level went past the sighting window. Slight foaming appeared also on the sighting window while the engine was idling (these idiots!). My estimation is of 400-425 ml overfill based on what remained in the bottle, the official fill quantity and the quantity on the invoice. Checking the level by "5min idle - stop - check after 3 mins" procedure revealed that oil level was above the window. In fact, after 1 min waiting it was already reaching the max level. After this check I drained 400 ml of engine by loosening the drain blot and watching the oil level dropping through the window. I tightened the bolt when I saw the level was 1 mm below MAX level. Some verification I performed after draining the 400 ml out: 1. The method that i use is the one according to the user manual: with the engine cold at ambient temperature (not started since a day or so), start the engine and let it idle for 5minutes, stop it, let the oil gather down for 3 mins, check the level (bike on main stand). By this method the oil level is 1mm below MAX level mark and this seems to me the right way to do it. 2. Checking the level while the bike is cold (not started at all) means engine oil level shows to be above max level, at the top of the window. I imagine that "cold start-idle-stop-check" sequence leads to oil being not fully drained yet when checking the level? 3. Checking the oil level after some ride of 50 km or so and after letting it sit for the same 3 minutes leads to oil level being over the window (not visible). Moreover, after such a small ride, the top cap leaked slightly, like a drop spread around the cap. I stopped and re-seated the rubber seal, the leak is now barely visible. After sitting for an hour it evaporates by itself. The cap was surely tightened enough both before and after stopping. No foaming appeared on sighting window after removing the 400 ml. What is your opinion based on the above? Which is the correct method? Is it possible to be still overfilled? Should i ignore hot oil level? Any info or advice you may have are welcomed. I bought the bike used (2014 manual model), with 11000km on the clock, i have been riding the bike for 2000 km, oil level was visible with bike cold sitting for a few days. I had no drops near the top cap until stealership visit. I really like the bike, it's the perfect machine, a blend of touring and sport. Please let me know if any aspects need to be clarified, i tried to describe the situation as detailed as possible. Thanks. Engine oil used is honda 10w30 factory spec, the black bottle, JASO MA spec.