JZH

What, you tellin' me you can't design and machine a solution to that? C'mon... :fing02: Silly question (says the man armed with a dial caliper and a not-so-steady eye), but are you sure OEM offset is 40mm and not 39.5mm? Ciao,

During maintenance on my FP I noticed that my more-than-ten-year old UNI filter was falling apart (disintigrating, really). So I took all of the old foam out, deg reased it, etc. and hot-glued in a new piece of UNI foam (much different than what they had used, for some reason). It was fairly easy, compared to doing it with an OEM, I suppose--only took about 30 mins. Hot glue worked very well--I can't imagine messing with epoxy in this application. Ciao,

FYI, I've seen discoloured stators before, but this one (found on another forum) is truly fried: VFR400R burned-out stator.jpg Ciao,

Lookin' good! :fing02: Back in the day, there was a place in the UK that used to sell "K&N" filters for the NC30/35, though in actual fact K&N didn't make one for that bike. This company was apparently using either bulk K&N filter media, or chopping it out of a large car or truck K&N filter and gluing it into used NC30 filter housings. They sold a LOT of these elements, IIRC, but stopped doing so after several years. (Ironically, K&N actually does make filters for the NC29 (CBR400RR), which I refused to believe until I (a) had one in my hands and (b) found it in their app chart.) Point is, you can do this with Uni foam (which is available in bulk), K&N, BMC, whatever you want. However, if you do thia you probably should then get your bike re-jetted (or re-Power Commandered), because your new element will probably have a different, freer air flow than with the OEM paper element... Ciao,

Ah, yes, the infamous "GathersM" Honda navigation system. Somebody managed to test the remote with a normal Zumo and said it worked, but they didn't say how it connected (through the mini-USB?), nor if it had its own part number... Ciao,

Er, okay. But what are you doing about an ignition lock and key? Couldn't you have lengthened the RC51 forks? :fing02: Ciao,

Not exactly cutting edge stuff--they've been around for ages. I put them on all my bikes to make bleeding easier. One tip: Don't use an alloy one like shown in the pic. Actually, I don't think the banjo bolt is a really a potential problem, but alloy banjo hose ends are a big no-no on a street bike, as they are subject to corrosion and breakage. Double-banjo bleeder bolts are also available in stainless and cad-plated. Mine are also Goodridge, but I think all of the major stainless brake line suppliers have them. Ciao,

FYI, the RC51 SP1 fork offset (as well as 929/954 and RC45--if you forget about the offset axle) is actually a measured 30mm. I've never measured a VTEC triple, but the 800Fi offset is 39.5mm, and the RC36s use 40mm. (And I think you want external circlips, rather than the internal one pictured above. There's a pic in veefer800canuck's thread.) Ciao,

You're welcome. But if a VTEC uses a 47mm OD x 26mm ID x 15mm D bearing, that may be your part number! Ciao,

Speaking of which...here's my dilemma: Get my RC51 SP1 fork sliders Ti-N coated, or leave them the way they are and save up until I can afford a set of Ohlins R&T forks with radial bottoms? :P Ciao,