JETS

In the engineering reviews the Purolator Pure-One did the highest filtration and had the least back pressure, plus has the best anti-bleed back check valve =Numero Uno. And the price is right. The long version is even better to reach.

Che belissimo moto, luigi. lavoro eccellante! I like your welding skills and your ability to fit many odd parts together. I have had my 4th Gen on the track and they are amazingly good at it. The sound from your pipe would be something to hear.

:fing02: This thread is frippin hilarious! It must be great to have buddies like this........where else but VFRD?

Seeing that big drill poised over your VFR, doesn't that pucker you up a bit?? Kind of like that proctologist saying to you, " this may hurt just a little....." :o :o :o

Wow! Great!! You are like SO doing the right thing. Don't worry for a millisecond that you are slow. The speed will come up along with the confidence as it needs to. It is so much better to have said to yourself that you could have taken a turn faster than to be saying oops, I wish I had taken it a little slower. Go slow and you build skills, take it fast and you scare yourself...then you really don't make progress. I don't know how much you have read, but the combination of keith Code's Twist of the Wrist I and II give great self visualizations and help you combat bad reactions we all tend to go to reflexively. Follow his works with a good read of Nick Ienatsch's Sport Riding Techniques and you will have the in your head knowledge of all you really need to know. Then the rest is gleaned from practice on the track as you are doing. Get the best feedback from trustworthy others to critique your form. Try to get videoed and look at it with an instructor, then sleep on it and do it again. Hitting a second track day right after looking at the video is absoutely the best. You are looking good on the photos.

B) I hope no one "needs" sliders, but as one who has used them, I offer a few bits for thought. I had rear engine bolt located sliders on my 97, plus bar ends and buttons on the passenger peg brackets. I slid out on the track at 40 or so and as long as sliding was going on there were no problems. When the bike hit the grass though, the frame slider dug in and flipped the bike violently onto the other side, smashing a great deal more plastic than any slide would have done alone. I am re-thinking the slider deal and plan to avoid the big peg sticking out the fairing way far. I think a shorter sturdy peg makes sense to avoid engine and case damage, etc, but give up on the idea of trying to avoid plastic damage so much. Maybe a stubby slider, bar-ends(that slide and not too long to dig in and get your $800.000 tank), and the rear pegger button to hold off the can and rear plastic somewhat. I may use the Brit mushroom-style fairing bolt buttons, just to absorb some of the grinding. I was impressed how well the fairing brackets did do on impact. Clearly they took up some of the energy, and if the forces were distributed more widely, some repairable plastic might result instead of exploded puzzle pieces. You REALLY want to avoid flipping and smashing up the dash and front uppers, tank, et al. But the VFR does run well as a naked bike......just a tad embarrassed. Here is a shot of my confession of guilty damage to my poor VFR. And after a tear-down and alignment check-up, the poor thing just got back out on the track and ran straight and true without a blip. border='0' alt='user posted image' /> naked.jpg

B) I hope no one "needs" sliders, but as one who has used them, I offer a few bits for thought. I had rear engine bolt located sliders on my 97, plus bar ends and buttons on the passenger peg brackets. I slid out on the track at 40 or so and as long as sliding was going on there were no problems. When the bike hit the grass though, the frame slider dug in and flipped the bike violently onto the other side, smashing a great deal more plastic than any slide would have done alone. I am re-thinking the slider deal and plan to avoid the big peg sticking out the fairing way far. I think a shorter sturdy peg makes sense to avoid engine and case damage, etc, but give up on the idea of trying to avoid plastic damage so much. Maybe a stubby slider, bar-ends(that slide and not too long to dig in and get your $800.000 tank), and the rear pegger button to hold off the can and rear plastic somewhat. I may use the Brit mushroom-style fairing bolt buttons, just to absorb some of the grinding. I was impressed how well the fairing brackets did do on impact. Clearly they took up some of the energy, and if the forces were distributed more widely, some repairable plastic might result instead of exploded puzzle pieces. You REALLY want to avoid flipping and smashing up the dash and front uppers, tank, et al. But the VFR does run well as a naked bike......just a tad embarrassed