Grum

Hi Joe. Beautiful VFR400R You Have. You might have an issue with Voltage drop somewhere for a Normal Neutral Start, could be a poor/high resistance connection. - Measure the 12v at the Ignitor Unit. - What does this voltage drop to as you crank the engine over? - Compare the voltage reading to the voltage measured at the Battery while cranking the engine over. How different are the measurements? Note - Keep the Black voltmeter lead on the battery Negative terminal.

No worries, here you go. Zip up the inside case then load it into the pannier. Works a treat, I can fit 4 to a panier without exceeding the weight limit of the pannier. Cheers.

It's been around 18 months or so since being able to do and fairly easy 385k round trip ride to my favorite winery, mostly on nice quiet back roads. I've had a few hospital visits and major cancer surgery to get through, anyhow, the short story is I'm feeling great now and have another 12 months or so of Immunotherapy to get through then hopefully I'll be in the clear. Today was a bit of a test to see how I'd handle the longer times in the saddle along with a picture perfect Spring day for riding, everything went well, happy me. There's a great winery I enjoy riding to in a tiny country town called Moonambel (Victoria Australia, Google Maps will get you there!!), an old Gold mining town, but the only Gold you'll find there now are the Red's produced by - Summerfield Winery. Here's a few happy snaps of the day Safe Riding All. Cheers On the way up "Fields of Gold"everywhere, Canola in bloom. Not quite Las Vegas. Apart from the Winery, there's the Motel and a General Store, a small town well known for its local wineries. The brilliant wine maker himself Mark Summerfield - Liquid Gold! Time to fill up the Panniers and head for home. The bike just loves Reds! Mark and the winery staff know me as "The Red Baron". The VFR and my wine pickups have featured in one of the Wine Club newsletters. I've made eight wine travel canisters out of 90mm PVC storm water pipe with a solid cap on one end. I roll up each bottle with bubble wrap then slide it into one of the canisters, I can fit up to 4 bottles in each of the pannier internal bags and haven't had a breakage yet. Not the most efficient way of purchasing wine, but it's an enjoyable day on the bike and any excuse to pick up some fine Reds is a good one! Have to admit my 8gen with 93,000k's on the clock, never ceases to put a smile on my dial.

I wonder if your problem might be due to a Power or Ground issue. - The LCD's have their own Ground and its the Green/Black wire to the Instrument Panel. Check this wire make sure it has good continuity back the the Battery Negative. - Make sure the main Instrument Panel Ground, Green wire is the same continuity wise. - Also confirm you are seeing a good solid 12v at the Red/Green wire, Instrument Panel main power. - Might be worth unplugging the panel connector make sure its clean and making good contact. A spray of good Electrical contact lube like CRC2-26 or similar might help. Good Luck.

The reason for checking the BAS is... If you are saying that it was the ESR causing the Ticking noise with power Off, caused by some kind of strange short within the relay or because of all that corrosion. The Relay will still need a Ground source to make the ticking noise! It can only get a Ground through either a shorted BAS Red/White wire to Green wire (shorted internal transistor). Or as mentioned, it may have been bypassed. Info regarding ESR Coil - Confusing wiring, the Black Wire is +12v from the Kill Switch.The Red/Yellow is Ground/Negative suppled through the BAS.

WDIV. Are you able to verify that the Bank Angle Sensor wiring is all normal? Or has the BAS been bypassed ie the BAS is unplugged and the Red/Yellow wire has been Grounded or jumpered to the Green wire of the 3P connector. Refer attached drawing. And just to be clear, your picture of the Relay base and its socket all corroded is the Engine Stop Relay? And none of the other relays have similar corrosion?

Ha stupid me! Just looked like a bunch of strange cables coming out of the front fairing, over suspicious about some weird wiring on your bike. Again..any idea which of the four relays it was?

Nice bike Keny. Do some good ohm measurements on both the Pulse Generator coils and the Cam Pulsar (if it has the Cam Pulsar) especially if you can get the engine hot. These coils can become flaky/intermittent with heat, make sure they have good continuity in wiring back to the Spark Unit. Also make sure 12v Power (Black/White wire) to the Spark Unit and the Ignition Coils, and the Ground (Green wire) to the Spark Unit is good. And.......It goes without saying! Make sure battery terminals are clean and tight.! Good luck with the bike.

Good on you buddy. Great story on beating the big C. Without the need for surgery. Glad you've got the brakes just as you like them, and remember do a brake and clutch flush every 12 months or so, it's a piece of cake on an 8gen. Enjoy the bike, the 8gen is a ripper. Good health to you and safe riding.

Good find. BUT...... Which relay is it, important info? Is it the Engine Stop Relay? Might be worth checking ALL relay sockets including the Starter Relay for similar corrosion! There's no way I'd be placing my nice new relay into those sockets! They look horrible, just wouldn't trust them, based on all the corrosion and oxidization evident, you could never rely on good contact connection. It's not too hard to replace the spade sockets with high quality ones like in the attached picture (Ignore the pic of the Starter Red Plug). I'm still baffled by the fact you had the ticking noise with Ignition to OFF! This doesn't make sense! There is no power to any Relay Coil when the Ignition is OFF. I "smell a Rat", there must be some strange non OEM wiring changes, additions/modifications or intermittent short going on here! Just curious! What is this mass of mostly yellow looking wires, just doesn't look right? See attached in Green circle. P.s. Listen very closely to your video again, is it just me? Why do I hear what sounds like some sort fan running just prior to you turning OFF the Ignition near the end of the recording?

Hi B. See attached spec for NGK IMR9D-9H's. While NGK specify a design life of 100,000m Honda no doubt will apply a fair reliability safety margin specifying 48,000kms. These Plugs are nothing like the old car plugs you refer to! Even my 2013 Mazda 3 has a plug change interval of 120,000kms again being Platinum, Iridium type. I replaced my 8gen originals at 60,000kms. colour, wear and electrode gap were all good bike had no performance issues. Some years back I replaced the plugs on a mates 6gen NGK9B-9H after 70,000kms, same situation, no performance issues plugs looked good and gaps were all in spec. Yep, from the day I picked up my 8gen I've serviced it myself. I think I'm lucky where I live, roads are never salt treated in winter, this must help bearings, chains and sprockets. I never use a pressure washer anywhere near bearings. Note - From 2016 8gen, the valve clearance check has been increased to 36,000kms. See attached. Guess this should just apply to the 8gen in general.

Seems normal to me and per the Service Manual. Depends on atmospheric pressure, your altitude, and engine vacuum, so with engine running at idle you would expect the voltage to be slightly lower than engine off voltage. As vacuum increases voltage decreases. My Service Manual states on 5-17 that Idle voltage is 2.7v Maximum not Minimum.!!! Has to be a typo error compared to yours above, but Maximum makes sense to me. See Attached. Note - The 5gen Service Manual also states that engine Idle MAP voltage of 2.7v Maximum! - You have replaced the MAP Sensor and ended up with with the same results and have No Fi fault code - Seems to me you Don't have a MAP Sensor issue! - Perhaps Starter Valve Synch might help with the lower throttle range problem you have. Have you done this? Also injectors might need cleaning and flow balancing. - Make sure Grounds for MAP, TPS, ECT and IAT are solid back to the battery Negative terminal. - Definitely replace the Spark Plugs unless they were done very recently. 10 inches Hg = 254 mm Hg. Manual states at Idle 150 to 250 mm Hg. Slightly high, but what is the accuracy of your gauge? 6 and 8gens all do that. 2 Valve operation changes to 4 Valve operation.

Wow that seems crazy! Why would Honda do such a thing, no need for such over the top security? If the bolt heads are welded to the large washers then maybe you could grip the washer with a pair of multi grips to undo. Or possibly cut a screwdriver slot in the bolt heads.

1. Make sure the Fuel Pump connector and terminals are clean and good. 2. Make sure the Fuel Pump Green Ground wire has solid continuity back to the battery Negative terminal. 3. Probe the Fuel Pump connector with your voltmeter then with Ignition to On operate the Kill Switch numerous times, make sure you read 12v and the pump primes for 2 to 3 secs every time the kill switch is set to run. Any loss of 12v may point to a Fuel Cut Relay issue etc. 4. At every Ignition Switch On does the Fi Light go out after 2 to 3 secs. 5. Have a Very close inspection of Main Fuse B 30amp located next to your Starter Relay. Check for any signs of overheating of the fuse, fuse holder and its wiring. This fuse powers your Fuel Pump and all the other EFI stuff. You could also unplug the Fuel Pump connector and Carefully run some test leads from the battery to the pump making sure you hear it run with every connection, if it at any stage it doesn't run then you have a faulty intermittent pump.

Do you have an active MAP sensor fault code? What symptoms are you having with the bike? And.... Yes if you have a MAP Fault? Check the MAP vacuum hose to the 5 way junction and make sure the other four hoses from the junction are properly connected at the junction and throttle body, make sure they have no cracks, kinks or damage!

Hi Bluehawk. Don't understand why they would replace the plugs,16,000 mile is way too early for Platinum Iridium plugs, the NGK versions are designed for 100,000mile! Agree with you regards the front wheel bearings that perhaps a pressure washer has prematurely made them fail. I'm up to 94,000k's with no wheel bearing problems. Actually, after 94,000k's the bike is running great, no issues at all. The bike has never been in a workshop since the day I bought it new in 2014. As for the chain, always err on the slightly loose side of the tolerance, never tight. Enjoy your 8gen, its a great bike.

There was no need to go to all that trouble. Why measure every wire? Sure hope you did the ohm checks with Ignition to Off? On the B Gray connector you only needed to test the three Ground wires they are the two Green/Pink wires and the one Green wire. Make sure they have continuity back to the battery negative. On the A Black connector just check the Sidestand Ground input on the Green/White wire. Make sure this Ground is there with the Sidestand up. To add to more confusion - I found another drawing that has the Green/White Sidestand wire going to B15 on the B connector, and the Neutral switch Green/Red wire going to B27, and the three ECM Grounds are spread between both A and B connectors! See attached. So check the wire colour codes, as mentioned they seem to be standard. Need to have a drawing that exactly matches your bike! It would be So Much easier if your bike was in front of me! Too many ECM variations just for a 6gen based on country, model variation, year, 2x33 pin plugs and 2x26 pin plugs versions etc. and the Service Manual doesn't cover them all - Drives me nuts! For Info - The reason for checking the Sidestand and Neutral switch GROUND at the ECM is - If the ECM does NOT see a Ground from either the Sidestand switch Up position OR the Neutral switch Neutral position = Ignition NOT Enabled, No Spark. Fuel Prime will be normal and no Fi fault codes.

Haven't seen that arrangement before, wonder if it's for the ABS A-9 versions. Is that plate a type of clip holder, does the forward smaller section simply unclip from the top of the ECM allowing you to withdrawal the ECM towards the front of the bike? Or once uncliped the whole bracket might slide off out of the way of the ECM? Perhaps you need to undo bolt number 23 see attached.

Do you have the Service Manual and a wiring diagram? See attached for ECM removal, section 5 of service manual will show ECM pin numbering. As mentioned wire colour codes are standard so as long as you identify the wire colours at the ECM on the plug suggested you should be fine. See if they match up with your drawing if you have one.

Sorry Greg but this is not good electrical language, it means nothing! "green wire looks solid at first glance". Always best to measure continuity of a Ground back to the battery Negative probing both sides of that Green wire at the Blue Connector, you should read zero ohms OR with Ignition to On there should be no voltage on a Ground wire with respect to the Negative battery terminal, any voltage on a ground means it's Not properly Grounded. Statements like "fuse, wiring or grounds look good" has caught out many people by not measuring, and makes the whole processs of trying to fault find so much more difficult. Good Luck - Be interested to hear how the ECM checks mentioned turn out.

Good point but any problem with the HISS would mean HISS, and Fi light ON and No Fuel Pump prime, Kochan doesn't appear to have any of these symptoms. Might be worth trying his spare key if he has one, just to be sure I guess.

Hi Greg. You sure have covered a lot of bases..... - What led up to this situation? Bike recently serviced, modifications, new battery fitting, R/R being replaced, etc. or just happened for no obvious reason? - Does your bike have the Honda H.I.S.S. key security system? - Try holding the clutch lever in, sidestand UP while cranking, does this make any difference? - Assume battery terminals are clean and tight? - Did you check for any active Fi fault codes, Sidestand must be Down? - Assume your Fi light goes OFF normally after Fuel Prime has completed at Ignition Switch On? - Are you very sure you don't have a spark, not just a flooded start situation? Plugs not soaking wet with fuel when removed? Possible leaky injectors? Perhaps a bad batch of fuel? Fuel Tank water condensation? Don't have a rodents nest in the Airbox, any chewed wires? Just thinking outside the square a little! Check the Neutral and Sidestand switch saftey logic Grounds at the ECM, probe these with a meter making sure these Grounds come and go with the operation of both Sidestand and Neutral switch. Make sure these Grounds are good, not just to frame but back to the battery Negative Terminal. - Neutral Switch Ground should be at A7 (Black ECM connector) a Green/Red wire. - SideStand Switch Ground should be at A20 a Green/White wire. - Make sure the ECM GROUNDS at the ECM Gray Connector B1, B2 Green/Pink wires and B14 Green wire are good back to the battery Negative terminal. Remove both ECM plugs have a very close inspection of pins and sockets, check for any sign of corrosion/oxidization especially for the A7 and A20 pins/sockets. Give the connectors a spray of something like CRC 2-26 electrical contact spray. Note - Your ECM connections might vary depending on year/version However the ECM wire colour codes should be standard. For Info - Faulty BAS (Bank Angle Sensor) = No Fuel Prime and Fi Light permanently On. Also, you can be sure that if you had an issue with either Cam or Ignition Pulse Sensors or their wiring the ECM would certainly let you know with Code 18 or 19. Good Luck, keep us posted. Do widzenia.

You sure do have a strange one! 1. Are you measuring your Ground wire continuity back to Frame OR the Battery Negative terminal? 2. Make sure both Main Ground and Sub Grounds located at the rear of the tank (see attached picture) are clean, tight and well bonded continuity wise back to Battery Negative terminal. 3. "Does anybody know on grey ECU connector pin b16 labeled as a common return for a bunch of sensors (green & orange) is suppose to have continuity at the ECU connector?! Because that I am not getting. " B16 Green/Orange is Signal Ground for various sensors. If this Ground was faulty, your ECT, IAT, TPS and MAP sensos wouldn't work. With the ECM plugs installed and back probing the wire you might measure continuity to ground as the ECM will channel this to one of the other ground wires. 4. DTC codes for the Oxy Sensor heaters would point to a loss of 12v to them, assuming the Ground is ok. 5. Video shows no codes being flashed by the Fi Light. And, there are no codes for faults with the Ignition Coils. Make sure the Ignition Coil Grounds are solid back to the battery Negative and the 12v on all coils is steady both Ignition to on and while engine runs on one cylinder. 6. It does sound like you've located a flaky area within the harness, see if you can replicate this, then remove the tape insulation in that area, you might find a damaged wire or flaky OEM wiring junction point. 7. "Also where is plug b2 and B15 they speak of in the ECU pin out diagram. " Not sure what you mean here! ECM plug A is the Black connector, ECM plug B is the Gray connector, so b2 or B2 or B15 are on the Gray B connector. B2 is a Green/Pink wire GROUND. B15 is a White/Yellow wire Cam Pulse and Ignition Pulse Common. 8. Try measuring the 12v on the Black/White wire to one of the non working Ignition coils, try starting the engine, does this voltage greatly drop whist cranking or when the engine runs.? 9. Do a close visual inspection of Main Fuse B 30amp located next to not in the Starter Relay, the fuse, fuse holder, single inline joiner and wiring can all suffer badly from overheated, high resistance connections. This fuse supplies all power to the EFI system. Hope this helps, haven't come across what your experiencing! Good Luck, sounds like you'll need a bit of that!

Seriously, all these LED stripe light things look tacky and degrade the look of a quality machine like the 8gen or any VFR for that matter! Where are ya gonna stick these things, and could they simply fall off at some stage? Anywhere on the fairings will probably need some form of quick electrical release for fairing removal, why go messing with the bikes electrics for no gain and the potential for introducing problems. Sorry, but Only in my irrelevant view, it will look like shit! But of course YMMV. Enjoy your wonderful 8gen.