SHvar

You have to find one the same size as the OEM filter or it will not fit into the space. There is a very tight fit to get a filter in and out of a 2014 (8th gen model), in fact the OEM filter is a tight squeeze. The filter must fit between the radiator, header, vapor canister, radiator bracket, and hoses from the canister. If you dont have the vapor canister it would be alot easier, but a bigger filter wont fit regardless. From my first oil change post, to get an idea of the space you have available. You can see the front of the filter behind the header in the photo. Ive been told there is a purolator filter that is the same dimensions of the OEM filter and cost almost half the price and is suppiosed to be a better quality filter. Somewhere on another post the number of that filter was mentioned.

In the USA there wont be any VFR1200F at any motorcycle shows because the bike was discontinued in the USA after the 2013 model year (I was told that by the dealer when I bought my 2014 VFR800F). It is still being sold elsewhere though. There were dealers in the USA with 2010 VFR1200F still sitting in the showrooms in 2014 and 2015 that they couldnt sell.

The fueling on the 8th gen is very accurate, if you make it run rich remove the catalytic converter or you will cause harm to it. The decel popping come from the air injection into the headers, not from being lean. Here is my dyno chart with the air fuel ratio at the bottom. Notice how smooth the VTEC transition is, this is with a Delkevic slip on, OEM air filter (the original filter from Honda over 2 years into use, it is still very very clean), and no other modifications to the bike aside from stomp grip, and a tail tidy.

I have tried gas at several locations and all octane ratings in my 2014 VFR800, so far minus some gas from one station I get no difference that I can feel or hear. There was a news report in my area on gasoline octane ratings a few years ago, and what they actually tested in a lab for octane ratings. The rated octane on the pump is the minimum permitted to be sold under that rating. Every station they tested had higher octane results, some by 1-2, others by a difference of 3-4 octane higher than what the pump was rated at. I run 87 octane on my VFR800 now. My Acura has a higher minimum requirement (90), its the only vehicle I use higher octane gas in.

I have checked my 2014 VFR800FD speedometer multiple times with a GPS app on my Iphone (its my GPS on the bike), both read exactly the same speed every time I compare them. Ive compared the same Iphone app in my Toyota 4runner and in my Acura with my Garmin GPS to compare for any differences. The Iphone and Gamin are reading the same speeds and distances. I have not compared the speedometer reading to the app above 90. My average MPG is 38.2, maybe I will reset it since I dont think I ever have, and see what the difference is.

My 2014 VFR800FD was recently dyno tested on a hot humid day at a dyno shootout with a load of other bikes with 101.5 hp to the rear wheel, and got 2nd place in the 650-851cc class to a very modified MVAgusta with 124 hp. They told everyone that day that on a day with lower humidity and lower temperatures their bikes would produce higher numbers on the dyno.

With my old CBR600F4 after so many years of using the Fram filter I had 2 choices to pick from, the K&N, and the OEM Honda filter because Fram stopped making the filter I used for years on that bike. The fram cost me $6.99, the OEM Honda cost me $10 if I remember right (it was a much longer drive to get one), and the K&N was $12.99 or so. I used a K&N for around 3 oil changes, there was a very small leak from under the nut on K&N filter number 3 (3rd year using K&N oil filters), but it was small enough that I had to look closely to see where it came from. That K&N filter was difficult to remove (not sure why, I always hand install oil filters snug only), it was the first time I ever used the nut on the filter to remove one, it started to round off and suddenly the spot welded sheet metal nut just popped off of the filter easily revealing a very small leak where one of the spot welds (there are a few small spot welds holding the sheet metal nut on only) burned right through the filter casing, or it rusted through the spot weld. The nut was rusted around the edge, rusted on the spot welds, and rusted under the nut, the other K&N filters did not have this problem, I wonder if they found another supplier to get their filters made at some point in time. After this experience I never bought another K&N filter, a few years later I see thousands of complaints online about K&N oil filters leaking under and around the nut on all types of vehicles, the nut breaking off, rusting, and some of the filters leaking suddenly and very badly while riding/driving. For my 2014 VFR800 I will only use the OEM Honda filter unless I can find Fram filters for it, maybe. I pay $10.99 for an OEM filter at the dealership. Just changed the oil today in fact. My original oil filter put up a big fight coming off at 600 miles, I had to punch a hole through the filter with a long screwdriver and turn the filter loose, why would anyone ever tighten an oil filter that much? I always clean the contact surface on the engine with a rag and check the new filters gasket, then put a bit of oil on the oil filter gasket before installing it by hand only. I dont know the amount of torque because I have installed oil filters by hand for 26 years plus and never measured it. I believe its turn until gasket contact, then tighten 1/2 turn by hand only.

I replaced the OEM Dunlop D222s with the Roadsmart 2 at 5000 miles (worn out), now the RS2's have 4700 plus miles on them, so far this is what they look like. I ride as much as possible throughout spring, summer, fall, and part of winter. These tires have been a great improvement from OEM. Not sure which tire will be next to try out.

OEM gasket still in place on my OEM pipe, sitting in the garage.

It definitely pulls harder at the top end with the Delkevic slip on compared to the OEM muffler, before changing the muffler it acted like it ran out of steam earlier and struggled to rev up high. The smooth VTEC transition seems to have come with the engine getting worn in a bit more maybe. Last year with the same Delkevic slip on (as indicated in the horsepower reading only photo I posted from last June) the VTEC transition was more noticeable but still not as bad as some others, also on that day (last year) of the dyno shootout it was not as hot, and definitely much less humid than yesterday. I installed the Delky slip on within 3 months of getting the bike.

This was last years readout, notice how much more noticeable the VTEC engagement is, still nowhere near as noticeable as that transition shared by jhenley17.

Im not exactly sure on the fuel consumption, if you stay below VTEC most of the time it gets amazing fuel economy. Actually above 10k the HP levels off, but only starts to drop a tiny amount (1 HP) at 11k, but still pulls past redline easily with the slip on (only drops 3 HP). Id be interested in seeing more dyno readings from other gen 8 bikes to see how smooth their transitions are (both OEM and modified), and how close their air fuel readings are. The engine pulls harder and is more smooth after 2 years definitely than it was during and at the end of the first year, especially at higher rpms with that OEM muffler. Here was the bike that got the highest HP reading yesterday, it was recorded from inside. A 2016 BMW S1000RR with full exhaust set to slick mode. I also have a video of a modified 2005 RVT1000 and the super moto that won its class I think.

Here is the video from my VFR800.

I decided to give my 2014 VFR800FD another try (tested last year at this event) on the same dyno on a very humid day after hanging out a bit today. The result was 101.49 hp and 55.31 ft/lbs of torque to the pavement with an OEM bike (OEM paper air filter that I checked and reinstalled this spring that was very clean after 2 years, 87 octane pump gas, and I havent done an oil change this year because its not due to change the 10w40 Amsoil yet) aside from a Delkevic slip on. In the last year it seemed to me that the VTEC transition got even more smooth than it was during the first year or so, this dyno reading shows what I suspected (look at how smooth that transition is). At the bottom it also shows the air/fuel reading, from what I saw looking at the other results aside from 2 of the many bikes that had reflashed ECUs and power commanders/etc being used, my bike had one of the better air fuel ratios (except for a short time during and after the VTEC transition where it appeared a bit more lean than the rest of the test). There were alot of interesting bikes there today with power readings anywhere from 11 hp to 184 hp, several categories from super motos, Vtwin cruisers, 50cc-580cc, 580cc-650cc, a very modified chopper, 651cc-850cc, 851cc-1050cc, 1051cc-1500cc, vtwin 0cc-750cc, vtwin 751cc and above.There were alot of OEM, and modified bikes, with some very modified bikes. I like this event because alot of people travel to bring their bikes to this event for some reason every year. Video to follow.

There is a local road with some nice tight turns, the local government decided to tar snake the crap out of the last section as soon as you enter the 2nd curve and for the next several hundred feet almost to the stop sign. They have never repaired any section of road this way before. Also they did the same on a turn I take approaching my house, and at a few other intersections and roads nearby. I cant stand riding on these tar snakes at anywhere above 80 degrees. The mess they made out of one section looks like a group of 5 year olds spent the day drawing in tar all over the road.