KanadianKen

I see some funny symbols - but the thread and the photos are intact - as far as I can see? MOds?

Is there anyone that bought a Solo Rack from me, that has installed it using their OEM HONDA Topbox? I have a question from a buyer that is looking to see some pictures of how that type of install went, but I do not have a Honda Topbox - so I can't assist. Looking for a photo or two - of the Solo Rack with the Honda intermediate plate installed, and then with the Honda top box base installed to it. If your bike is covered up in the garage, this would be a great time to check that its sleeping ok, and snap a few pics!! THank you!!!

SO - whats a shock like that go for on Ebay? Nice grab!!

drugs Veefer, that ain't Christina Applegate.....

post ho......

that space is where I discovered my "missing" tool kit buried two years after I got the bike !!! Only took it off when we changed the brake fluid.

Seb - cool idea! SLammer - you have a point there....... YOu could use my Solo Rack as the base to mount your block to. It is solid as a rock. Additionally - the Solo Rack would be ideal for the rear facing views.

Good time to get Radars sliders - for us Northerners anyway..... Just a bump for Radar - his product is excellent!!!!

As soon as it stops raining I will get the bike out and shine the lights against the garage door and post some pics. . :thumbsup: well its snowing here like crazy, enjoy the rain!!!

nicely done. I'd love to see the light pattern they throw forward - say against a wall. I miss the HID's I had in my Maxima, they were the best lights I've ever driven with. :thumbsup:

Just out of curiosity what were you charging, I put a pencil to materials and my time to build a slight variation of this one. There is over $75 in materials and supplies involved in this monster. Plus to build this one I have about 20 hours in it, but figure that I could probably finish one every 6 hours or so (welding, cleaning and paint). So for me to sell these, I'd have to charge minimum of $150, and at that price, you can buy the harbor freight one that I listed above for $90, or stroll over to new enough and pick up the power stand for $120. I think they were $125 - which was basically my cost.

Good Stuff Chris. Awhile back I had 6 wheel chocks for sale that were custom made as well. (Same outfit that bends and cuts my brackets and fender eliminators). THe materials aren't cheap, and the welding and bending is the critical part - as well as having a movable pivot to fit different tire sizes.

Cool - I guess its running better now? :thumbsup:

8 spoker weighs 13.2 lbs. I weighed mine a couple weeks ago. Whats a 5 spoke rim weigh?

talus' volts are in Canadian, it translates up to about 14.3 - 14.5 American Volts................ Excellent job on the How to - you are hired!!!!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

thats a cool install. I liked Chris#### method but didn't want to plug off the center stem - plan to use that for a power outlet. :thumbsup:

Jeremy explained it to me best, so I will try to share the reasoning as best I can... THe black wire coming out of the RR, connects with a white wire with a black strip. that wire is about 12 inches long, and connects with an uninsulated connection with a red power wire. That red wire continues on through the wiring harness, passes through another uninsulated crimp connection, a fuse, and then back onto the positive terminal of the battery. WHat the wire (or set of connections) does is measure the voltage coming out of the battery so as to "tell" the RR how much juice to flow back into the battery, from the RR. HEres the "WHY". With all those connections, and lengths of wire - often times there is a severe drop in voltage being read at the battery - versus what is really there. THe RR then doesn't send th eappropriate amount of juice back to the battery. By doing this simple modification, you are simply making a very direct route to the battery - from the black wire of the RR. If there are others with a better technical reason to do the mod - please feel free to add. thanks.

SOrry - I did install an inline fuse as well, with a 5 amp fuse. THe inline fuse I used was with 10 gauge wire - I hoped that any voltage drop caused by the extra connection, might be "saved" using heavy wire.

This is a step by step method to do the monitor wire fix. It guarantees a solid and direct connection to the positive battery post from the black wire coming off the RR. Step 1: Get your tool kit out. Spread a hotel towel down – so you don’t lose tools. Spread another down, to receive the bolts you will be removing. Sounds gay – but it’ll help long-term. You need to get the fairing off: Here are the bolts and fasteners you need to remove. Any fasteners or bolts shown in the picture HAVE to come out. At the end – I took a picture of ALL the fasteners I removed. Make sure you got them all covered. Under the bike – two fasteners. If they are round and have a “button” in the centre – push the button, then pull the outside part of the fastener out. I only have one on my bike- it’s a pain to remove as often as my fairings are off. Three bolts you see here. Remember where each bolt came from – the bolts you will be removing are of different sizes. The bolt on the side comes out as well. The two bolts on the black plastic centre fairing – the one on the top left, and the one about 7 inches down from that. Next to the mud stain on this picture. Looking to the inside of the right fairing, at the tip of my finger. Another of the mushroom type fasteners – press the centre, then remove the whole fastener. The two bolts at 10 o’clock, and 6 o’clock. Now the fairing isn’t attached. The best way to get it off is to be careful and pull the fairing out – away from the bike from the back part – the part furthest backwards from the handlebars. Then – take the fairing somewhere that you won’t step on it. Step 2: Locate the Regulator/Rectifier. Here’s what it looks like OFF the bike: The part you are interested in is the connector that has the Green red and Black wires. The BLACK wire is the one you will be messing with. The RR is located here – on the right side of the bike. Carefully follow the wires coming out of the RR. Follow the wires to the connector. Here it is. There is a plastic rubber shield – just move it up and away from you – it’ll reveal the connector that you need to simply separate. Here is the connector in one piece: In the picture above, you will see green wires, red wires, and a white wire (actually a white/black wire.) That is NOT the half of the connector that you want to mess with. The side you need to manipulate is under my finger in the above picture. Push the tab in, and separate the connector. You should then see this: The wire connection you want to look at in the above picture is the top right connection. Notice the rectangular open space on top of each connector? This is where you insert a paperclip, a very small screwdriver, etc…. and press in with the tool of your choice. At the same time – pull the black wire out the other end. Here’s a couple more pics. I used a nail to push the tab in: Ok – the hard part is over. Now reconnect the plastic connectors, leaving this black wire out and on its own. Now here is the what you need to create to complete the fix: Get yourself about 3 feet of 12 or 14 gauge wire and strip off a bit of cover from each end: the following 3 pics illustrate: You will also need a RING terminal that is destined for the POSITIVE side of the Battery, and a female spade connector that connects to the Black male connector you just removed from the plastic connector. In my pic above – my index finger is on the wire with the female connector, and my thumb is on the ring terminal. Make sure you look at the size of the bolt on your battery (positive terminal) to make sure you get a ring terminal large enough to attach it. I attached the female connector to the black wire first, then routed the other end back toward the battery. Something like this: And here’s what it looks like at the connection to the black wire: I used an insulated female connector – that is a good choice if you can find them. Next – remove the battery cover, and remove the positive battery connection – and slip the ring terminal onto the bolt. Reattach to the battery. Next – button everything back up…… here’s the bolts and fasteners you removed:

THis is a step by step method to do the monitor wire fix. It guarantees a solid and direct connection to the positive battery post from the black wire coming off the RR. Step 1: Get your tool kit out. Spread a hotel towel down – so you don’t lose tools. Spread another down, to receive the bolts you will be removing. Sounds gay – but it’ll help long-term. You need to get the fairing off: Here are the bolts and fasteners you need to remove. Any fasteners or bolts shown in the picture HAVE to come out. At the end – I took a picture of ALL the fasteners I removed. Make sure you got them all covered. Under the bike – two fasteners. If they are round and have a “button” in the centre – push the button, then pull the outside part of the fastener out. I only have one on my bike- it’s a pain to remove as often as my fairings are off. Three bolts you see here. Remember where each bolt came from – the bolts you will be removing are of different sizes. The bolt on the side comes out as well. The two bolts on the black plastic centre fairing – the one on the top left, and the one about 7 inches down from that. Next to the mud stain on this picture. Looking to the inside of the right fairing, at the tip of my finger. Another of the mushroom type fasteners – press the centre, then remove the whole fastener. The two bolts at 10 o’clock, and 6 o’clock. Now the fairing isn’t attached. The best way to get it off is to be careful and pull the fairing out – away from the bike from the back part – the part furthest backwards from the handlebars. Then – take the fairing somewhere that you won’t step on it. Step 2: Locate the Regulator/Rectifier. Here’s what it looks like OFF the bike: The part you are interested in is the connector that has the Green red and Black wires. The BLACK wire is the one you will be messing with. The RR is located here – on the right side of the bike. Carefully follow the wires coming out of the RR. Follow the wires to the connector. Here it is. There is a plastic rubber shield – just move it up and away from you – it’ll reveal the connector that you need to simply separate. Here is the connector in one piece: In the picture above, you will see green wires, red wires, and a white wire (actually a white/black wire.) That is NOT the half of the connector that you want to mess with. The side you need to manipulate is under my finger in the above picture. Push the tab in, and separate the connector. You should then see this: The wire connection you want to look at in the above picture is the top right connection. Notice the rectangular open space on top of each connector? This is where you insert a paperclip, a very small screwdriver, etc…. and press in with the tool of your choice. At the same time – pull the black wire out the other end. Here’s a couple more pics. I used a nail to push the tab in: Ok – the hard part is over. Now reconnect the plastic connectors, leaving this black wire out and on its own. Now here is the what you need to create to complete the fix: Get yourself about 3 feet of 12 or 14 gauge wire and strip off a bit of cover from each end: the following 3 pics illustrate: You will also need a RING terminal that is destined for the POSITIVE side of the Battery, and a female spade connector that connects to the Black male connector you just removed from the plastic connector. In my pic above – my index finger is on the wire with the female connector, and my thumb is on the ring terminal. Make sure you look at the size of the bolt on your battery (positive terminal) to make sure you get a ring terminal large enough to attach it. I attached the female connector to the black wire first, then routed the other end back toward the battery. Something like this: And here’s what it looks like at the connection to the black wire: I used an insulated female connector – that is a good choice if you can find them. Next – remove the battery cover, and remove the positive battery connection – and slip the ring terminal onto the bolt. Reattach to the battery. Next – button everything back up…… here’s the bolts and fasteners you removed:

i have the 1092 69/170 spring. sorry.