Mohawk

I’ve been using just wide Band for years with my RBRacing module. The narrow band sensors are just looped together on the RRR harness. I use both the original O2 sensor feeds to power the MTB wideband sensor, you have to use both as the Wideband sensor draws to much current for one feed to supply it. As an FYI You only need power through on stock O2 sensor feed to keep the Fi light out. Because the alameda signal is not seen the ECU defaults to a rich map. It is this map you use the RBR or PC3/5 to correct. Have fun 👍

And if the package got lost you could only claim insurance for the stated value ! Just saying ☹️

Finally got all the bits to fit my uprated FPR to complete my throttle body & airbox upgrade. Then updated my other threads about both elements 👍

Skinny tires handle the best. I had an ANF125 (modern C90) as a winter run around a few years ago. I used to think my CBR600F4 handled well, until I rode the chicken chaser. It may not be fast but what a blast, in the wet on the roundabout near my work I could get it into a two wheel drift at 30mph, fantastic. After a few months riding that in the winter, getting back on the CBR was like steering a barge. So don’t knock skinny, they definitely handle the best 🙂

That Apache gunner was just checking with control is that old red bike really the target. I’ve flown one of those Jet Provost jets with a display pilot. One of his stunts is to take off, retract the gear, then fly lower over the runway at about 2ft altitude ! I always liked the look of the 400, I had a 500 for many years, sold it to a mate. I think he still has it, if I ever get the spare time & cash I’ll try to get it back one day.

Is that the air intake I spy above the rad with that plastic scoop ?

Don’t use sharp tools in the calliper. Brass Wire wheel in a Dremel &/or a piece of scotch bright pad worked round with an Allen key of the right size with no sharp edges ! I have the same job to do on one of my bikes, might start tomorrow.

Glad all’s well in Rush land, welcome home 👍😎

I gave it a new coolant expansion tank, from a GPX600 to replace the too small KTM690 one I’ve been running for the last couple of years. Hopefully I will stop losing expansion coolant, thanks to the increased size. I also fitted the bottle neck through the fairing panel so I can check the level & top up at will. I replaced my old RapidBike Racing MTB with a new one that supports Bosch 4.9 wideband sensor, which are much more accurate & faster responding than the old 4.2 version. Fitted Scorpion Ti end can. And a few more things to do yet,

I gave it a new coolant expansion tank, from a GPX600 to replace the too small KTM690 one I’ve been running for the last couple of years. Hopefully I will stop losing expansion coolant, thanks to the increased size. I also fitted the bottle neck through the fairing panel so can check the level & top up at will. I replaced my old RapidBike Racing MTB with a new one that supports Bosch 4.9 wide and sensor, which are much more accurate & faster responding than the old 4.2 version. Fitted Scorpion Ti end can. And a few more things to do yet,

If doing CBR600F4 forks on VFR800, then the best option for 5th gen is to use Vtec, yokes & stanchions with CBR lowers. Most cartridges have an over stroke, so just need to confirm the extra length of the 6th gen stanchion is within the over stroke. range of the CBR cartridge ! If not you may be able to mix & match parts to make a working cartridge.

Yeah elbow grease & wire brushes. The discs if the same as CBX are vented, so a close fitting sized steel rod or square file will clean the vents. They can build raised rims outside the pad swept area, which make it difficult to remove the clamper or fit new pads, so just use an angle grinder to take the lips off & a hammer is good for removing scab rust with a few taps. Then a quick wire brush to clean the last of it. You can treat the discs with rust converter & paint dip them with the pad swept area taped off to keep the rust at bay. Point to note they are mounted opposite way to external discs, with no centre, there are three protrusions on the outside of the disc that mount in shimmed location points on the wheel hub. The callipers slide onto the disc from inside the disc. Weird but true. I think the 400 is one side of the CBX setup.

Having refurbed inboard discs on a CBX550F2 back in a previous life. They work quite well when maintained & cast iron has the best co-efficient of friction, with the right pads. Just get rid of all the rust that builds up in there.

I much prefer this site for bike specs https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/Honda/honda_vf400f 83.htm Enjoy

Doh, sorry I never looked past the plastic & exhaust, I’ll blame it on target fixation ! So same applies to 6th gen then. But being a long production model, then no worries, just buy a spare bit of plastic & be happy 😉

^^^ What he said. They are performance headers NOT OEM replacements, there may be minor clearance issues. I’ve never looked closely at an 8th gen fairing lower V, but I’m stunned by your picture & how big those holes are, Honda must have no faith in their own exhaust manufacturing now, if you compare those with the pipe cooling holes on 5/6th gens ! What’s a little melted plastic when you get such benefits !? YCMV. ( your clearance may vary !)

Problem with brushed staters is they have nowhere for the brush wear residue/dust to go. So the brushes start to stick which increases arcing that increases wear. If you ever need to replace a set of brushes & they are NLA then just go to a car parts place & buy a set. They are all bigger than bike ones, then cut them to shape to fit your starter motor ! Give it a full clean & degrease & all good to go like new again.

No it was just crimped on & was a spare bit of wire I had at the time that had the right connector on one end, but whomever crimped it had done it on bare wire, so it snapped I guess from vibration fatigue. It’s ‘a been there for over 15k miles, it’s non standard & I’d put it inside a tube as it runs down the front of the engine, to stop it chafing through, which concentrated the vibration to a 2” length by the connector. I’ve rerouted it & remade the connector, so should be good for another long while. I’ll add it to the winter strip down checklist.

I found & fixed a broken wire to my loud air horns. They failed to work on Wednesday as a car tried to cut me up. Checked yesterday & I could hear the relay firing, so whipped the left side fairing off & traced the fault to the positive wire from solenoid to the horn had broken just below the terminal crimp. All good now, MoT tomorrow.

What is it you need to know about RBR ? I have it setup on my 5th gen with MTB & 120hp normally aspirated. As an FYI, I just changed the throttle bodies to a spare set of 99 ones with a choke lever as the wax unit on my original Y2K set has always shut off to early around 45c & the bike stalls on cool days. I’ve taper bored the entry to the TB’s up from 40mm with a step near the throttle plate where the stock intake trumpets rest, to 42mm with no step. I also fitted a set of cleaned secondhand CBR929 4-hole injectors which are almost a straight swap. Then I started it up, idled it to operating temperature & balanced the starter valves & adjusted the idle speed. Took it for a test run & there were various places it was rubbish & stumbling, slow accelerating etc, the more I rode it the better it got. Now after 45 miles it was almost back to how it was before. I stopped after 20miles & accepted the trims in base map & again at 45 miles. It was quite lean between 2000-7000rpm. Now its great again. It will need my new big airbox to complete it, as it’s running the previous 40mm entry dual stack version. But I’ll get round to that later. One thing I noticed is with the max/min trim level set to 15%, the MTB adjusts fuel as required for your set point now, where as before it was a max/min deflection number I.e. +15-15 in the table. This is better as it quickly brings the fuelling to a good AFR. Re your turbo version. If you need higher CC injectors, then the early Suzuki Hayabusa used the same injectors as did Honda Civic & CRV. There are some high quality 12-hole increased CC direct replacement injectors available for the Hayabusa. The RBR supports up to 4 MTB’s and CR46 has that setup on his. The newer version support the Bosch 4,9 wideband sensor which is a big step up from the old 4.2 that I’m using, it’s more stable & much quicker to react & last longer. Depending on your budget & how much spannering you want to do you can you can do a couple of things. 1. Buy four & let it all be fully automated. Or 2. Buy one & add 5 tap points to the exhaust. Then use the 5th point in the collector to average all 4 cylinders & save that map. Then move the sensor to each header individually & check/tune each cylinder & save each cylinders map. When all 4 are done compare them if there is no major difference then you can just use the 5th point single map. But if there are large enough variations then switch to 1 map per cylinder & manually add the base maps you previously saved. The MTB would now be redundant, but if there were variations in injector flow, you could always match those injectors in the throttle bodies. As in the two richest ones in cyl 1+3 & the leanest ones in 2+4, remember the ECU map will be richer on the rears by default. As always YMMV

The RBR uses a 3 wire QS. I built one myself, which worked great at low load, so crusing, but failed under high load as you could not move the lever. No linkage on 5/6th gens. IIRC the system monitors line voltage on 2 wires & the 3rd is for cut signal. So load cell or sensor causes a trip voltage on the sense wire. The parameters are adjustable for gear & rpm range in the RBR software, so if you can integrate the Honda gear lever sensor into the RBR, then great.

Hard to see in this pic but best I have unfortunately.

When I added my custom High mount pipe, I forgot to spec a stand stop. So I bought some 4mm wall silicone hose cut a 2” length then slit it along one side. Slid it on to the right leg of the centre stand, whilst the bike was on the side stand, adjusted it in place to centre on the contact with the exhaust & cut a little away to fit around the stand cross bar. Once all adjusted, I cable tied it in place. Worked a treat !

All three 5/6/8 gens top out at 10500rpm, then flatline or decline. We know the restriction is not in the exhaust now, so you might like to try my big air box mod on one of those. When I did mine it added 5hp up top plus it let it keep breathing to the redline ! 🙂