MBrane

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Getting it "right" would mean failing the emissions standards.

fixed ;) Just like my subframe where the robot missed the mark:

You can substitute a 3/8 as it's real close to M10. Grade 5 would probably be fine though as it's not a high shock load fastener, and most of the force is upward which doesn't put the bolt under lots of tension. That is unless you frequently un-weight the rear.......

Trail braking has more to do with when/how you are braking than which brake you are using. I've used the linked brakes on my 5th gen successfully on the track, on dirt roads, and in the rain. If you understand how they work, and use them accordingly there is no need to de-link. It does make maintenance easier, but not enough to justify eliminating the advantages IMHO. If that's a major consideration for you then mod away.

I would have to say replacing 14+ year old rubber parts (lines, MC & caliper seals) would help. It did for me.

Over 35K on the 16/43 now. Couple of stiff-ish links, but the sprocket wear is minimal. I'll probably replace it soon with the same setup (DID gold x-ring/Superlite steels). It'll be interesting to see the pin wear on this chain when I cut it up. It has been a trooper.

Pressures are not as critical on a road tire as they are on a track tire. Road tires are designed to handle many more heat cycles, and perform over a wider range of pressure. They also last a lot longer, and have different temp related grip characteristics. That said I'm pretty good about checking pressures, but I'm not gonna stop & change 'em in the middle of a ride due to altitude, and temp. variations. If you need to do that to maintain your pace you may want to reconsider how aggressively you are riding on public roads.

You need to understand how changing the attitude of the bike affects the handling. Lowering the front i.e. raising the fork tubes in the triples will make the bike turn in quicker. Raising the rear will help the bike maintain it's line once it's turned in. This is of course independent of any other mods like shortening the wheelbase, tire profile, etc, but the range of adjustment on the eccentric is pretty small in the grand scheme of things on a VFR. When I had a 929 shock on my 5th gen I added nearly 1" of ride height to the mount, and the bike held it's line much better. I also had to make sure it was on completely level ground to turn the rear wheel on the center stand. When I went to the Penske shock fully extended with the stock mount I lost a bit of rear height so I raised the fork tubes 5mm. I've had it up to 140MPH, and no stability issues. I may raise the forks a bit more on the next oil change just to experiment, but the bike feels good as is. I'm not wearing the front to the edge, but I'm giving the little Michelin Man a haircut.

You really can't alter the attitude of a stock VFR enough to make it unstable. While the pressures your running are a bit low for street riding that's not going to affect your wear patterns much. That has more to do with geometry, tire profile, and riding style.

Still running PP front PR2 rear on the road, and PP rear for track days. Don't see the point in springing for the PR3 as the only advantage is in the wet which doesn't happen here often enough to justify. I am actually thinking of going narrower on the road since I have a 4th gen rear wheel here doing nothing at the moment. If it doesn't work I can always swap the rubber onto the RT.

I used a slightly bent clip-on handlebar to make a mount for all my gadgets: Comes off easy, and works with any standard 7/8 handlebar mount. There is a piece of heater hose with some washers, and a long bolt with nut on the end running into the steering stem that holds it in place.

That's pretty slick!

DuPont teflon dry lube.

Nearing 30K on my 16/43 combo. No signs of replacement yet despite the rain, and dirt roads. Will replace with same.

Mine was that way for a couple years, and I had no issues.

Good to see someone doing a HID install the right way not just replacing a halogen bulb with a HID, and blinding everyone with glare while decreasing their useable field of vision.

I've had a few front slips that very likely could have been lowsides with a rounder, and harder compound front. I like the elliptical profile, and extra stick of the PP up front on the VFR. I do run a PR2 on the front of the RT, but it's a lot heavier, has less available lean angle, and the Telelever suspension is hard on front tires. It would eat a PP in under 2K.

Went -1 on the front, and it's the second best mod I've done to the bike (#1 would be the Penske 8987). The bike is much better in the tight stuff now, and is right around 5-6K when on the highway. Dropped the MPG a bit, but I'll gladly live with sub 40 avg. MPG since I don't spend a lot of time in a straight line.

That's pretty cheap for a PR2 rear! Gotta link? At those prices I might go back.....

Seriously? A PR2 rear is almost twice the price of a PP rear, and doesn't last anywhere near 2X IME. I run 'em at 40 psi on the street 30 on the track. They don't "flat spot" they just end up more round than elliptical. I run 'em on 2 5th gens with similar results despite different riders. Guess we are using more throttle, and lean angle than you?

In The wet is much stronger on the power too, but I really dont care for the rear ppower for a street tire, the road 2 rear is more supportive of the weight IMO. Especially once the tire is past half life, quality of feel degrades too much. I was really dissapointed with Power rear on the back, espcially, being a 2000 mile tire in addition. The Power front and road two rear is my longevity package to keep costs down, My favorite is the power front with BT21 rear, Its such a Quick turn in package , I have a blast every time I run it. IMO, the BT21 rear, is a better option than Ppower rear for the street. I've run a Pilot Road 2 on the rear, and did a cost vs. mile comparison. The difference was about $5. I also found that the Power didn't flat spot as bad as the Road 2 due to it being more elliptical to begin with i.e. by the time it's worn out the profile is similar to a Road 2. Haven't noticed any "softness" in the carcass. When it does step out it comes back without drama.