swimmer

They'll find you through DMV. Got a recall notice for my Yamaha several months ago. I am not the original owner and never registered anything with Yamaha. @Swimmer, it sounds like you have already updated the mailing routine by transferring info at a dealership, as I was told that Is the process. Not done by phone or online. They also confirmed the pending driveline U-joint recall today. Honda Powersports Cust Ser. 866-784-1870. (Have your Vin. # handy) Honda of San Mateo, CA also confirmed pending recall... "If you're having issues, have it inspected. The dealership will communicate up line if needed. If no issues, wait for the letter" was their comment to me. At speed all feels fine here but... How much slow speed slop n clatter is too much? I'm hearing varying degrees. No, I didn't buy the Yamaha from a dealer and certainly never took it near a dealer. The recall notice just showed up. They get their information from the DMV.

They'll find you through DMV. Got a recall notice for my Yamaha several months ago. I am not the original owner and never registered anything with Yamaha.

Limp along? Not a whole lot of drive shaft failures happening so I suspect this may have gone completely unnoticed had Honda not issued the recall. I didn't feel like I was limping along on my way to work this morning.

It's not really a big deal presumably. Drop your bike off, they fix it and, you take it home. Good for them for taking action. The thought of a VFR1200 stop sell order in the US is pretty comical.

Did he mention when they would have the parts needed for the repair? My VFR is not going anywhere near a shop until they have the parts on hand.

So, I can only assume owners with bikes falling into the recall will get a letter from Honda.

So, does the last sentence say, get it checked even if the are no parts available to fix it?

Did you find any of the aluminum bits in the sump as was found to be an issue with some 2010 models bought in the UK? How many km on the bike?

Swimmer, have you calculated speedo error, or might you be using a GPS-based odometer? Yes, the speedo is quite accurate and the odometer is short by a little over 1%. So, in reality my mpg figures are slightly better than posted but, close enough.

On my 5th gen, I would get to about 180 miles until the last bar. On the 6th gen, pretty much the same. If I was really flogging the bikes, I would get down to 150. On the 7th gen, I get to 120 miles and it is blinking. Fuel economy so far has been 33-35mpg. I bought my new, 0 mile 12' VFR1200 on Oct. 10. After riding it 820 home I started tracking the mpg on fuelly. First 3 tanks with my normal commute. 192.8 miles @ 46.3 mpg 211.7 miles @ 47.7 mpg 213.8 miles @ 49.7 mpg. I expect those numbers to get a little better once the motorcycle is broken in. As usual, the horror stories of bad mpg are overblown and have more to do with factors not dependent on the motorcycle.

Which Rotella? I prefer the Rotella T6 to the Auto Mobil 1 I was running.

Got any great advice about removing the stickers from the tank without messing up the finish? Goo Gone.

I can appreciate fabricating all of that stuff by laying out everything by hand and manually machining everything but I could probably model all of that stuff in SolidWorks in a few hours and send it out to be made by some shop with a CNC and a week later I'd have my parts for much cheaper than what you were paid to do that. I send a lot of my small jobs to some dude who does all his machining without a CNC because he is fast and his quality is super so I can appreciate your skills but NFW would I pay $2k for that.

It would be interesting to find out what the pressure relief valve is rated at on the OEM filter. Of the filters recommended in the posted link the Pure One has the lowest rating and according to Purolator it is still too high. Their MC specific one is rated at 9-12psi.

Should the Pure One be dropped from this list since Purolator recommends not to use them on your motorcycle? My link Edit: so I see the spec for the pressure relief valve on the filter is 17psi and the oil pressure on my VFR at 6k rpm is 71psi. The stated concern of Purolator seems like a non-issue to me.

Aren't the Ir's stock?

FWIW, I am still running the 20/3 setting. Looked at my chain pretty closely this weekend as I had the rear wheel off to get a new tire mounted. The rollers and o-rings still look wet and the side plates dry. The chain guard still is getting some accumulation on it. The tire I pulled off did not have any signs of fling-off save for a few specs here and there.

So I've gone through about 2 tanks with the 20/3 setting on the pro-oiler. The side plates of the chain are pretty much dry but the o-rings and rollers still look a little wet. The chain seems a little loud but I think that is because the previous owner did not maintain well for the 8800 miles before I got it. I am definitely not getting any fling off onto the tire. This seems like a pretty good setting. If anything I might go up to 20/4 but I am going to leave it as is for a while. I think if the VFR had a normal type of rear sprocket with a large face on it and not the little ridge that the nozzle has to sit on it would work better and more oil would get on the o-rings and less on the rollers.

I think I'll write Pablo a note telling him how many people are finding the pre-set or suggested flow schedule to be too rich. After moving my pro-oiler from my 650R (where I had zero chain adjustments or cleaning in 14k miles) I found the suggested setting too rich for my VFR. Currently I am using 20/3 setting and that may be a little lean for commuting. NFW will I ever go back to the clean/lube routine pre pro-oiler.

elizilla, The only time I've gotten any significant oil on my tire was on my 650R when I had the setting rich and, to make matters worse. I was on a road trip which mean higher speeds so more frequent oiling. I've only had the pro-oiler installed on my vfr for about a month. Last weekend I washed off the built up oil around the front sprocket (where my dark oil drips were coming from) and put a setting of schedule 20/3 and am going to see how that works out. Even though I ride every day it may take another week to see how that is working out. Other than some odd drop if you are getting streaks of oil on your tire you've got too much oil coming out. If you ride a lot on the highway it can be good to back off the flow as well since you are going to get more oil coming out due to more frequent triggers. No way would I have another motorcycle without a pro-oiler - I just need to get this one tuned right for me and all will be well. At that point I'll probably replace the chain since I don't think the previous owner took good care of it. PM me if you have any other questions as I might forget to check this post.

I ran the pro-oiler on my Kaw 650R for about 18k miles. In that time I never had to adjust the chain nor clean it. I never had any dripping from it either nor did I get oil on the tire unless I was running it too rich. I've now put the pro-oiler on my VFR. A couple of days ago I notice some spots where the oil from the chain had dripped. Very black as you say you see and it was coming from near the front sprocket where the oil was being flung onto the cover. This means too much oil obviously. I was running schedule 18 setting 2. Today I changed to schedule 20 setting 3. I'll see how this works. The chain should never look wet, just clean. I don't see oil on the tire though. The pro-oiler is the best but I think the suggested settings are too rich.

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