YoshiHNS

I'm still working on the triumph hub + spindle, VFR swingarm, 848 rear wheel setup. Working too much. I have the new drive pins halfway done, but at the rate I'm going, I'm just going to outsource to finish them so someone with a collet chuck. Then have to get them hardened.

So the MV spindle fits in the Triumph hub? If you're going to try and graft the MV swingarm on there, why not keep the rest? Triumph spindle needs a bit of machining to work with a ducati wheel, and a handful of machined parts.

Yeah. Agree with above. Just looking at the dimensions, they aren't standard to anything I've seen. Normally it's 50/54mm for triple trees. So you would need a set of triples, possibly custom, to go along with these.

If you want the bling, I'm sure someone somewhere can do some coloring to the OEM forks. If you want a better front end, look up some of the 929, R1, RC51 conversions on here.

What's the goal for the fork swap? There are a bunch of threads on different fork swaps people have done and what you need to make them work.

Yes, with those forks you are going to need the entire front end for whatever bike they were made for, assuming it is a bike who's triple tree fits in the VFR's' neck.

Some days it seems like you are living the motorcycle dream.

I saw the electric water pump, but I didn't know that you covered it in steel braid.

Sweet. So you raised the front end for a little more stability?

What did you do with the radiator hose between radiator and water pump?

Good luck. Glad to see you making a post over here. Never enough build threads.

Not enough demand. Only a handful of people bought one.

Did anyone do any height measurements to see if there is one that we can use which won't require removing the radiator fan for clearance?

I raise my glass to another fallen comrade

Yes it was directed at you.

First off, you don't need your bike apart to do the throttle body / starter valve sync. The only thing you should have to do is prop the tank up and maybe the seat and some plastics. I've done it on a handful of bikes and have never had to do any sort of disassembly where I couldn't immediately take the bike out for a spin.

Second, Mohawks suggestion will determine if messing with the idle and trying to leave them open is going to do anything or not. Much easier than messing with things on an unfamiliar bike and possibly getting into a predicament.

Did you try Mohawks suggestion a few posts up?

I could see the want to turn the fan on early for those people who do get stuck in traffic and want the fan constantly running instead of clicking on and off as it may. Otherwise no.

I know that there are some systems that are tandem with an electric water pump, so that when you turn the ignition off, it will keep the pump and fan running for a determined amount of time. But I could only really see that in a track bike.

I was thinking that was a triumph spindle. Or it is a triumph spindle for an RC wheel?

You should be able to use any aftermarket wheel that would bolt onto the Triumph.

Now that he had the spindle shortened he can only fit Ducati wheels, but there are more Duc wheels out there than Triumph wheels, so I think he came out ahead.

Some pics of Doug's modified spindle before I boxed it up...

PICT3153.JPG

Was taking a look back through this thread. Did you remake those four drive pins? They look much pointier than the ones I have. And they came with allen head bolts on the back, not hex head.

PS: The idle thing that would open and close by itself is part of the wax idle unit. Read up on it.

There are at least a couple threads about how to make your own manometer for under $20, and a few threads on how to do a sync.

Why are you worried about your VF500?

You can either lower highway rpm or give better acceleration with a gearing change. Bigger rear will give better acceleration. I don't really know if a smaller rear or larger front will guarantee an increase in top speed.

If she is doing a lot of highway, maybe she should consider trading up to a 500 if it's in budget.

Open your butterflys slightly... with your right wrist. If you don't like the max engine breaking reduce it with a little maintenance throttle instead of snapping the throttle completely closed. Our bikes don't have ride by wire so the ECU can't do it for you.

Being a fellow Rush maniac, I will take your advice politely :) But in reality, none of my 7 other bikes were ride-by-wire, and I never gave it a second thought. I don't think I should have to ride around the issue (whether it is an issue is a matter of opinion, and what you are used to riding). Keeping the throttle slightly open while decelerating is quite odd. Again - when on a racetrack, you are simultaneously braking, blipping, downshifting in rapid succession - so this is NOT an issue. But daily commuting when you are on and off throttle all the time, it is quite irritating and unlike any other bike I've owned.

Other than playing around with the PC, it might just be something you have to ride around. This bike isn't your other 7 bikes, so it's no surprise that it feels different. In fact, I would bet a fiver that all those other bikes all have different amount of engine braking, and the VFR's just stands out more. I have three different generation VFRs in the garage, and they are all pretty different from each other, and I ride them all a little different because of it. I really can't offer a solution that meets your needs other than not closing the throttle off completely, staying lower in the revs, and playing with the PC.

I don't think the VFR electrical system is wimpy per se. It does put out a good amount of extra power for accessory use. The weak point is usually the R/r. So you replace it with a more reliable one from another bike model. The electric water pump probably draws the same amount of power that heated grips do, if that. I wouldn't replace the water pump for an electric for a daily street bike just in case there is an electrical problem, but I would do it for a track bike. Plus you get more coolant flow at low revs since it isn't dependent on engine RPM.

Maybe with your power commander. Maybe. Other than that I'm really not sure how else, other than by staying in a higher gear to lower the rpms when you're letting off the throttle. Aftermarket header might help if it flows more freely, but I don't know if that's the best for the overall engine performance. And it's expensive.

Thinking about it, what will having 0 fuel and the butterflies open do to reduce engine braking?

Interesting question.

Someone on here has looked into the slipper clutch, which IIRC never happened.

Nope. Slipper clutch has been successfully fitted to a 4th gen VFR. I don't think that's what is really going to help.

Leaving half the butterflies off from the other is going to make the engine run uneven and probably really poor in general. You should just increase the idle if that's how you want to go about it.

Of course, the absolute simplest solution is to stay in a higher gear, or just pull the clutch in, or not let off the throttle as much. All things you can do right now, no downpayment or modification necessary.

I'll give one guess where those are made