Tightwad

I had one cell in my battery go bad. This gives a nice flat battery but since mine is modular I just swapped out the bad cell. I have abused my battery...it runs dead due to a parasitic drain on the bike. I only rode 1 tank of gas in the last year. Battery was dead, put the charger on it and it came right back to life. The MOTYs are smaller and don't like the cold it seems...mine didn't have that issue but I still think it should have some monitoring per cell...gotta do something about that.

Did you solve this? It sounds like an intriguing puzzle! btw...I can cook and I can do electrical but my valve adjustment went WAY bad....

My favorite mod for the 3rd/4th gen R/R is to use one from a 98-99 VFR that has the MOSFET inside. This is the same tech as the R1 R/R but without the funky connectors....it's easy to adapt. You have to figure out the mounting yourself however as it is significantly larger than the OEM (and that is a good thing). Make sure the R/R you get is MOSFET...don't fall for "heavy duty" on some Ebay unit as you will chase and chase and still have issues. If you need I built a harness for adapting to the 98 VFR R/R that replaces all the wiring from the stator to the battery.

Where did you get the relay for $16? This is a very common problem on the 3rd/4th gens that I think is more age related than anything. The VFRness I sell for the 3rd/4th gens has a new connector and repair bits included due to how often that is found to be dodgy when doing the rest of the fixing. I had to repair mine on my 2002 as well...got a bit toasty. The replacement connector is not the same as that red connector is apparently actually made of gold...

Most likely the magnetic bit is bonded to the bolt...so you can buy whichever one you desire most and it will work.

Don't forget to place your orders! I have to close this today to be sure everyone gets the discount.

The Powerlet controllers are compatible with the Gerbings gear (so it says on their website). I have had my jacket for a few years now but haven't had too much need for it. I really like how the glove liners plug in jack on the top of the wrist). Sizing is consistent with other motorcycle clothing.

I have both the old and new liners and plan to review the differences over the next couple days. I have the glove liners to review for power consumption (they are the wrong size for me) as well.

Need to get a rider friend a late Christmas gift? Didn't get what you needed yet? Just want to spoil yourself a bit? This is a great opportunity! I am organizing a group buy via my website for Powerlet Heated Gear. All orders placed between now and 20:00 CST on the 31st are eligible for a 20% discount using the promo code "powerlet" entered at checkout. All orders have to be in by 12/31/2012 for the discount to apply as I have to place the order then The discount only works on the items in the "Heated Gear" section found here: http://www.wiremybike.com/powerlet-products-heated-gear-c-2_57.html Make sure to use the code "powerlet" so I know you came from the Forum for the discount. All orders will be placed on 12/31/2012 so they won't ship until at least the second. The Large glove liners are on backorder for about 2 more weeks as well. For those who haven't used heated gear it is VERY nice! I have their original sport gloves (not offered anymore) as well as the first generation jacket liner. The new items they sell are much more comfortable. Glove liners are not available without the controller anymore due to safety concerns (they get quite warm if uncontrolled!). Orders over $100 shipped to the US will ship for free as well. PM me with any questions. Mods if this is inappropriate or misplaced please let me know!

I am in the minority but I have enjoyed my BT021 tires. Mileage on tires between locales can vary as in Texas they use a lot of cement for the roads and this does a number on tire life!

Thanks for the props Ron and Rollin! I do sell replacement R/Rs for the VFRs. In this case I don't like the OEM replacements as I think they are under specced. My suggestions is to buy one for a 98-99 VFR and use a conversion harness. You can easily make one if you have the materials/tools or you can also buy from my site (www.wiremybike.com). The 98-99 model will require some modifications to the mounting to make it work but is a great investment!

Those are indeed a common failing point. For the 3rd-4th gen VFRness I include the repair kit as more often than not it is needed! Luckily it is a simple fix and not expensive either.

There are many options...the ones mentioned in this thread were from my site www.wiremybike.com. I sell them to work with the VFRness as well as standalone.

I used to sell this mod and unfortunately for many the extra filaments actually draw quite a bit more than expected. I stopped selling the conversion kit. I like my HID kit but it isn't 100% perfect...but then I like it and I don't ride all that much at night especially not in strange country...I am not concerned about the few artifacts there are. I didn't have any artifacts etc with the 6 beam mod or the 4 high beam on high mod I also did.

The charging voltages dropping as you approach the higher RPM is actually fairly common for the stock R/R....not sure why but I hear that a lot.

Low beam connectors should just pull straight off

I think headlights are usually killed by voltage spikes or by oil on the bulb. Be sure the bulb isn't touched and clean it with alcohol if it does get touched. I find the basic model bulbs tend to last the longest in comparison to extra bright etc bulbs. You should monitor the voltage with the headlights installed and watch for spikes.

Why would you need/want to?

I have to say, that sounds really really flakey, like mentioned. A good AGM battery will hold over 13.0volt for weeks and weeks, if it excellent condition. When they get old you'll start seeing voltages max out around 12.7 or 12.8 volt, right after a full charge they'll quickly fall to that range within a couple hours. I realize your playing with the unproven batteries, so you're kinda on your own with those. I have measured my LiFePo4 battery when not connected...voltage over 3 months didn't drop a bit. On the bike the voltage drops...I believe I have a voltage leak but it isn't constant, which is what is weird.

What year is the bike? Only the 1990-1997 have direct plugs into the regulator unless someone swapped yours out for a Yamaha R1 R/R. For the 1990-1997 R/R the smaller pins are stator (yellow wires) and the bottom left is positive, the bottom right is negative. For the R1 R/R the 3 pin connector is stator (yellow wires) and the 2 pin connector is left side positive, right side negative.

The individual cell voltages can be a concern for sure. I use a 4s Headway setup on my bike and my Seadoo. I had 1 cell go bad (.32v) and it won't come back. I don't have an individual cell charger so I am fairly stuck...it may be bad. Luckily I had 4 spare cells so I swapped one out. Putting a 12V charger on it in this situation was causing the battery to heat up fairly well. Keep an eye on them for sure, and test for temps.

What do you mean by the Stator putting out too much power? Curious what the readings were or how to tell so I can help others in the future who may have the same issue.

Nice work...I like that you separated the units...in the 90-97 R/R there is just too much going on. Lately I have been selling a lot of 90-97 VFRness's adapted to work with a MOSFET style 98-99 R/R. That is an easy conversion and works well...probably closer to the skill set of most riders.

Wish i could be there...the first one was pure awesomeness and good times. Learned a great card game from some Canucks, met a ton of great people and had some good riding as well. Enjoy the swag I send...I wish I was coming instead.

I used to sell a kit to retrofit to 6 beams at the same time. It overpowered charging systems very easily. I also configured one to run the HB on the low beam bulb when the high beams were on.