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2024 Spring Ride Official Post. We shall be holding forth from Franklin, NC once again this year. The dates are May 16-19th and lodging at the Rodeway Inn, https://maps.app.goo.gl/zKsEQjNkrWFJZ1xD7. I don’t have any special rates to speak of at the moment. Donna spoke to someone when she booked her room and they said to go ahead and book and we’ll sort any special pricing out when we arrive. There is something going on in town those dates so book A.S.A.P. I believe, and someone correct me if I’m mistaken, but I believe this is our 20th TMAC. Last year should have marked the 20th, but the cancellation of the 2020 ride negated that. Can’t wait to see y’all there!

Like Mohawk, I'd strongly recommend cleaning up the brass slider and the plates either side. IIRC You did say it was working correctly before winter. Most likely that corrosion is causing the actuator to stick and as the engine warms expansion of the rod increases the idle further. Perhaps measure from the end of the rod to the nut before disassembly to give you a starting point when you put it back together.

The nut on the end of the wax unit op rod, sets the SV position relative to the wax unit temperature. If the wax unit & its lever brass bearings are operating correctly it should NEVER need adjustment. If the wax unit is NOT operating correctly you can adjust this nut to compensate, but it may not cure your issue. If I were you I'd measure the rod protrusion length, then remove the nut & brass bearing & clean it as it looks like it may be corroded! Reassemble after cleaning & test again. All the wax unit does is push pull the SV (choke) lever based on the coolant circuit temperature. When cold it closes the choke to make the AFR rich, when warm it opens the choke to allow main air control for idle to be by the SV/throttle plate idle screw setting. So if engine cold idles as expected (2-2.5k/rpm) then increases rpm when engine reaches nominal operating temp, the wax unit/SV plate is NOT returning fully to the Open position. The ECU does NOT have a monitor for WAX/SV position, but does have an engine temperature monitor for AFR compensation, hence the high idle speed.

Why did I ever doubt the Captain... I gave my sacrificial volt meter a full pardon...reassembled, tested and shelved. Yea, that mod is cool as is, my heart's just not into pursuing the face alterations any further...later maybe. I am going to paint the bracket and I thing the cowl stay comes off for a paint job as well. This aught to be fun... haha

Can't help with a spare, but I have these sights bookmarked for various connectors. Maybe the plug is listed somewhere? It looks like the white plug is listed on the first listed link. https://www.cycleterminal.com/ecu-connectors.html https://www.corsa-technic.com https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html

For anyone who might not be on that Fbook thing, most of the usual suspects are signed up and there will be a good turn out. Just don't want anyone to think this event is dead. There will be a minimum of twenty bikes there and several groups to choose from. Y'all come join us.

Our discounts have never been much anyway and definitely not worth risking not having a room. We have had trouble with hotels for years in Franklin due to other events and the lack of hotels in town. I'm booked! The Tigger got new suspenders last week and new rubber this week. Oil change and its ready to go.