Member Contributer N2v Posted May 30, 2020 Member Contributer Posted May 30, 2020 Hi guys silly Me, while removing the cct the cap came off inside what is the easiest way to get it out! I have tried for hours n hours still no luck. I can feel it from underneath when I wiggle my finger around just can fish it out i followed a YouTuber “Macadventures” Done everything still can’t push the the cap up! https://youtu.be/XG6c_uhrVOw please help Quote
jstehman Posted May 30, 2020 Posted May 30, 2020 https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/76-cam-chain-tensioner-without-throttle-body-removal/&share_tid=76&share_fid=35196&share_type=t&link_source=appPost #59 starts the dropped cap retrievalGood luck!Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted May 30, 2020 Member Contributer Posted May 30, 2020 If you pull the clutch cover (sounds like you've done that if you can feel it) you should be able to push it up, either with a long thin screwdriver or a heavy piece of wire. The latter might conform better to the available space. As a last resort (say for example, the cap is wedged in at an angle and stuck - or whatever), it would be much easier to fish out if the chain lays slack (providing more space) by removal of the intake cam (on the front cylinders). You would be able to look down the cavity the chain runs in and see it. That, however is a LOT of work, so as I say, the last resort. It may take some patience but you should be able to push it up. This for me has been one of many design elements on Hondas that work so well but give one fits when trying to service them. 1 Quote
Member Contributer N2v Posted June 4, 2020 Author Member Contributer Posted June 4, 2020 With a lot of patience and 2 magnets and a wifi endoscope it finally came out! Soooo stocked! I don’t know why, but the top has a shinny spot. What u guys think it could be from some form of rubbing. when I had the magnet up around, one of the gears came off can’t find any markings Quote
Member Contributer Grum Posted June 4, 2020 Member Contributer Posted June 4, 2020 Glad you fished the cap out, stressful situation. The gear is the starter idle gear and has no reference markings. Wouldn't worry about the cap marks as this is what rides against the back of the tensioner. 1 Quote
Member Contributer N2v Posted June 6, 2020 Author Member Contributer Posted June 6, 2020 Ok ive finally put in the cct when do I remove the key? And where does this hose go to? Quote
Member Contributer Grum Posted June 6, 2020 Member Contributer Posted June 6, 2020 If the CCT is fully mounted, then remove the key and install the end bolt and sealing washer. Think you are holding the Vaccum hose to the Air Intake Diaphragm on top of the air filter housing. You also have the control valve electrical connector removed from the valve. Also just to be sure did you transfer the steel cap to your new CCT? Or did you order a new cap as well? Do you have the Service Manual? You can download it from this site. 1 Quote
Member Contributer N2v Posted June 6, 2020 Author Member Contributer Posted June 6, 2020 I ordered a new cap, and slightly squeezed it. So it won’t come off. When installing it. fingers crossed 🤞🏼 I’ll pull the pin tomorrow so what ur saying is, the end of the hose goes ontop of the air box near the flapper? Quote
Member Contributer Grum Posted June 6, 2020 Member Contributer Posted June 6, 2020 9 hours ago, N2v said: so what ur saying is, the end of the hose goes ontop of the air box near the flapper? What's your aim? Do you want the "Flapper" system working or not working? The electrical connector to the control solenoid has recently been removed! And your now showing the hose taped to the airbox with it blocked off. The snorkel is removed, is this something you wanted or was there a previous owner of your bike that removed it? Quote
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted June 7, 2020 Member Contributer Posted June 7, 2020 I've never understood the fascination with the "flapper mod". It's designed to increase intake velocity at lower revs for maximize torque and for smoother running. Honda spent large Yen designing it and tuning the motor for its best performance across all rpm, so why mess with it? Maybe butt dynos are more accurate than the ones at Honda R&D, dunno. 1 Quote
Member Contributer boOZZIE Posted June 7, 2020 Member Contributer Posted June 7, 2020 30 minutes ago, Cogswell said: I've never understood the fascination with the "flapper mod". It's designed to increase intake velocity at lower revs for maximize torque and for smoother running. Honda spent large Yen designing it and tuning the motor for its best performance across all rpm, so why mess with it? Maybe butt dynos are more accurate than the ones at Honda R&D, dunno. Not saying right or wrong,.. H did away with it on the last update And on my other bike - cbr1k - removal makes it a little easier to get off the line as its so restricted, now whether there's any correlation, who's to say, maybe not Quote
Member Contributer Grum Posted June 7, 2020 Member Contributer Posted June 7, 2020 1 hour ago, Cogswell said: I've never understood the fascination with the "flapper mod". It's designed to increase intake velocity at lower revs for maximize torque and for smoother running. Honda spent large Yen designing it and tuning the motor for its best performance across all rpm, so why mess with it? Maybe butt dynos are more accurate than the ones at Honda R&D, dunno. Hi Cogswell, completly agree with your comment, and I wouldn't mess with Honda's engineering without good reason. However, it's interesting to note that on the 2017 8gen Honda have completly removed this system, whether Honda have also updated ECM tuning software to somehow compensate, I have no idea. Based on that, and just wanting to clear a bit of under the tank clutter on my 2014 8gen, I decided to remove the whole system for a trial. I've probably done about 25,000k's since removing it and can honestly say, subjectively, that the bike is performing great in all aspects, fuelling, economy, and performance, if I had the slightest inkling the bike was adversely affected I would reinstall the system in a heart beat. My gut feeling also tells me that there are probably thousands of VFR's running around with not so clean air filters, and maybe this would have a far greater effect on airflow than perhaps that of the "Flapper System". Just a thought! I certainly feel the Snorkel mod is a waste of time and only seems to increase the Induction noise as well as amplifying the pop noise of either the Flapper or its solenoid energising (provided the system has not been removed). Whether the removal of the "Flapper" system has an adverse effect on a 5th or 6gen I can't comment on that. As always YMMV. Cheers. Quote
Member Contributer N2v Posted June 7, 2020 Author Member Contributer Posted June 7, 2020 4 hours ago, Grum said: What's your aim? Do you want the "Flapper" system working or not working? The electrical connector to the control solenoid has recently been removed! And your now showing the hose taped to the airbox with it blocked off. The snorkel is removed, is this something you wanted or was there a previous owner of your bike that removed it? That picture was for reference only ✌🏽 I know the connector is not connected. I just wanted to know where does the hose connected, dose it go to the airbox? Quote
Member Contributer Grum Posted June 7, 2020 Member Contributer Posted June 7, 2020 1 hour ago, N2v said: That picture was for reference only ✌🏽 I know the connector is not connected. I just wanted to know where does the hose connected, dose it go to the airbox? As previously mentioned - to the Air Intake Vacuum Diaphragm on top of the Air Box! I think a picture might be worth a thousand words. No.15 VACUUM HOSE. Quote
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