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Rsparky

Fork seals! First time, any tips?

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8th gen. I'm going to get a seal driver, and a socket for the caps this week. 

 

History: I had a decent rock chip, but stoned and polished it smooth. It ought to seal now, with fresh seals. I'm getting the black sludge at the top of the wiper so it's probably gross in there by now. The other stanchion is still squeaky clean, but might as well freshen both up. 

 

I am borrowing a coworker's front stand and measuring straw/plunger. 

 

My biggest fear is the bolts under axle not breaking loose easily. Anything tips or anything else to watch out for? I'll be going by the oem service manual. 

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Loosen the cartridge bolts before removing the fork caps. Cut the zip lock off a freezer bag, and put it over the end of the tube before installing the seals. Pack the area between the oil & dust seal with grease to catch any bug shells or other hard debris that makes it past the dust seal. 

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^This is good advice.

 

When you refill the forks, pump the cartridges to expel air, you'll be able to feel when you get smooth resistance.

 

I would also just break loose the fork caps before removing them from the clamps, and do a final tighten once you refit them.

 

This is a messy business, have plenty of rags and put newspaper on the floor; its very hard to avoid getting oil spread around.

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Yes, break the fork caps whilst the forks are in the clamps, but not the cartridge bolts.  Why?  Well (assuming 8th gen forks are similar to previous gens, which they might not be...) the cartridge bolt is a low-head socket cap screw, which means that you can easily strip the heads if you're trying to loosen them whilst you're working upside down.  Better to wait until the forks are off the bike and safely clamped in a vise.

 

One other thing to point out is that with conventional forks, in order to keep the cartridge bolts from spinning you need to put the fork under tension, not compression.  And if that doesn't work, try an air gun--the hammer effect pops them out every time (and this is when it's a good thing you didn't strip the heads...)

 

Ciao,

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A couple fairing screws had low sockets too. Maybe necessary for the forks, but pointless for the fairings... I replaced them with proper SHCS. Hopefully I can get to my cyclegear before they close tomorrow after work. If so, I may try this weekend. Thanks for the pointers!

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Those screws were a pita! 

 

Now, my next dilemma. I've been polishing with the dremel for hours. But I can't get the marks from the polishing stone to go away. Will it leak? 

20180520_124853.jpg

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will it leak ?? who knows. most likely NOT from those faint marks..

however.. use a CONDOM  either from the top or bottom of the tube and slide the seal on  to the tube..snip the end of the condom and slide seal past the bushing areas if going from the bottom.. once seal is on "operating area"  remove condom..

other bags are little too big and run the risk if tearing the seal lip. 

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It is done. Seems decent so far. A very light film on both forks, after a 2 mile ride, but that may be from extra fluid between the seal and wiper. Or, it's just the best I can get with my "Leakproof" seals. We'll see. Thanks all!

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