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06 Electrical Issue


Redrider112

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I know there is info about n this but I just rode to work and I'm hoping for quick help.

Just rode my 06 to work about 14 miles. Bike died 4 times on me. I was able to get it going again each time but sometimes it would take s little while of cycling key. When it wouldn't run I wouldn't hear the fuel pump. When the fuel pump would finally go, then the bike would start. At one point the Fi light was flickering but not a code or anything.

Looked under my seat and the connection directly below the main fuse looks burnt. While playing around with this connection it seemed to effect the bike so I'm guessing that's the issue.

1st question is can I ride the bike home? I was hoping if I tape up the connection I can limp it home.

2nd question what do I do next? I thought the 06's were fixed of electrical gremlins? I bought the bike in spring and put 2000 trouble free miles on. It has about 22000.

Hoping for quick help before I leave work, thanks in advance!

Was able to grab a multimeter and at 1st test battery was 11.7 but bike fires right up. At idle it's only 12.2. At 5000rpm it's at 13.2 or so. After revving idle was at 12.8.

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Unfortunately, 06's are not immune. Pull the red cap and black boot off of your starter relay just to the left of the burnt wire and see if it's toasted. I would also suspect the R/R connector may be fried. It's behind your plastics on the right side just above the radiator. You can follow the wiring from the regulator down to the connectors. How old is your battery?

Riding 14 miles will be risky if there's much traffic.

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At 12.2v the battery needs to be charged at a minimum. Ideally have it load tested. Replace if it fails. Cut out burned connectors and either solder together or replace. If replacing treat with Ox-gard. With it in that state the chances of being stranded on a 14 mile ride home are very high. Best to trailer it home and work on it there.

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Battery says 2012 so I had planned on replacing next year.

You were right the red wire going into the starter relay was burnt and melted thru the plastic.

Is the R/R connector something you can see without removing plastic?

Are the new connectors readily available? What can I do to prevent this?

I'm gonna trailer it home. Thanks again.

post-32837-0-98133200-1440702830.jpg

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The stator to R/R connector is just beneath the rad hose on the right side. Remove the plastic and it will be obvious as there are 3 yellow wires leading to it. Some never have a problem with them. Others seem to have regular melt downs. Many cut the connector out and solder the wires, tho there isn't much extra wire for that. Others use metri-pack repacements, I'm using posi-locks with good success. You can get OEM ones from member Tightwad @wiremybike.com. Using Ox-gard on the pins of connectors goes a long way in preventing these issues. That can be found on Amazon, at home centers or many good hardware stores.

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Yep, I'd get a new battery and not mess with that one. As Cogswell mentioned Tightwad should have the supplies you need.

Once the damage is repaired and have a fresh battery you'll need to test your stator and regulator.

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That should work, I think I installed a 10 ga 30 amp fuse holder on mine from Radio Shack.

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Welcome and sorry for the issue.

Info wise, there is always this monster!

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/18560-vtec-electrical-problems-info-post/

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Thanks guys. I have been reading through the "vtec electrical problems" post all day off and on. My head is spinning. Its tough becuase a lot of the talk is pre-06.

Could this have been caused by a combination of weak battery and always riding with high beams on (I like to be seen!)

My next question for you VFR gurus is with an 06 is the whole blue connector ground wire issue something I need to check as well?

Thanks a million

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Thanks guys. I have been reading through the "vtec electrical problems" post all day off and on. My head is spinning. Its tough becuase a lot of the talk is pre-06.

Could this have been caused by a combination of weak battery and always riding with high beams on (I like to be seen!)

My next question for you VFR gurus is with an 06 is the whole blue connector ground wire issue something I need to check as well?

Thanks a million

All bikes need to prep the wiring, atleast I do this on all bikes, my 06 is all stock wiring at 110,000 mile no wiring has melted or required replacement, those spots you showed pictured are known trouble spots, ensuring the contact areas are clean and tight an ohm well, and prep with (wd40) is what I use. I inspect those areas every year or when I have a side cover off.

Now the stators are not life time items, 50 thousand or so is about average life, I still have original RR as there's nothing wrong with it.

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I'll def check it at least but after reading I know the recalls they did on the pre 06 seemed to address the ground with the blue connector, wasn't sure if it was fixed in 06.

So I'm grabbing a new battery today and fuse holder. When you guys replace the fuse holder do you replace the wire all the way to the battery? I don't see any damage on the battery side, seems to be burnt only on the other side of the fuse. That's seems to be the weak point.

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If you went with 10ga wire, running it the entire length mite not be a bad idea if you can get a solid connection at the terminal on the battery. You would have that much less resistance in the circuit. But it also should work fine if you splice it in. I wholeheartedly agree with the maintenance aspect of the electrics. Keep the connectors clean and treated and all should be good.

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Ok guys. I hope you can help me interpret my findings.

Took right side fairing off. Check all connections. No signs of heat damage. Pulled all apart, cleaned and added oxgard.

Installed new battery, new fuse holder with 12guage leads (waterproof connectors with heat shrink). Haven't fixed starter relay connector yet but cleaned all connections and treated with oxgard.

Voltages tested at battery are:

1st start at idle : 14.5

at 5000rpm : 14.5

Let it warm up

At idle : 14.2

5000rpm : 14.3

Switched high beams on

Idle : 13.2 with a slow drop

5000rpm: 14.1

Once fan kicked on

Idle 13.2

5000rpm 14.1

I'm not sure these are the results I was hoping for.

Wires did not feel noticbly warm except the 3 yellow wires, which were hot but I could hold onto them.

Haven't removed left side fairing yet.

What next? Thanks again guys. I've got a long poker run coming up and want to get this thing back in shape and get my confidence back in her.

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Looks good!

I would not say my stator wires are cool, but I also would not describe them as hot. I can hold them comfortably but they're a bit warmer than ambient temp. It's possible for resistance to build up where the wire is crimped in to the metal spade inside the connector's plastic housing. Unfortunately, it's a PITA to remove the wires from the connector housing to check. You might try some contact cleaner or WD 40 on the back side of the wires to see if that helps any. Just keep an eye on it periodically. Once you have the starter relay connector fixed you should be good to go.

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I have a Datel meter on my 6th gen and get 14.6v except when I have a high current draw at idle - high beams, fan, etc. where it will drop in to the mid to high 13's. When warm If I bump it just a bit above idle it comes back in to the 14's. Once I'm moving I get back to around 14.4v with the high draw. I would say yours is consistent with that. You're solidly in the 14v range which should keep your battery healthy. If you want to try for the last .2v or .so you might Ox-gard the grounds, fuses and other charging circuit connections as well as seeing if you can get the stator connector to run a bit cooler.

Since installing my voltmeter I have a lot more piece of mind - wouldn't be without it now.

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Thanks. I orders the new connector from wiremybike.

Hopefully last question, do you route the connectors as shown below? I tried moving the other connectors above the rad hose and away from the radiator but I don't think the plastic fits quite right that way. I was trying to keep it away from the radiator as much as possible, but the hose gets pretty hot as well.

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