Tews19 Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 I posted a question in another thread but being new to this forum I am unable to find it. I am need to replace my chain and sprockets. I read that I should go the OEM route for sprockets due to a "rubber" coating???? Some suggestion to which chain and sprockets I should purchase would be great! Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowdog Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 I have always used DID X rings on both of my Viffers. (well at least since X rings became available!) As with most things one gets what one pays for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Conedodger Posted August 5, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 5, 2015 I've got 32K miles on the OEM parts on my 6th Gen. Based on that, I bought OEM parts for the inevitable replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gmtech94 Posted August 5, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 5, 2015 The original front sprocket has a plastic coating on it to help with noise ,but for the rear buy a good quality one with the best chain you can afford . Kept up this will last a long time with minimal maintenance . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tews19 Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 Thanks for the insight guys! I never cheap out on bike parts. Safety is number one here. So OEM front which is a 16??? Rear will be a 45??? Chain should be a DID x ring but how many links? and also should i get a 520 or 530? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MaxSwell Posted August 5, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 5, 2015 Thanks for the insight guys! I never cheap out on bike parts. Safety is number one here. So OEM front which is a 16??? Rear will be a 45??? Chain should be a DID x ring but how many links? and also should i get a 520 or 530? Your thread reminded me I needed a new chain and sprockets. My great dealer just said mine takes a 530 chain. And explained some rear sprockets were made of aluminum - you do NOT want aluminum if you are going for longevity. Mine looks like it is behind the wear indicator. This is at just under 25,000 mi. I got my bike with 10,000 mi. I've no idea what former owner did but I lube the chain every 500 mi as the manual calls for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njride Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 I've got 32K miles on the OEM parts on my 6th Gen. Based on that, I bought OEM parts for the inevitable replacement. Thats funny, my oem stuff lasted 32k, just replaced this spring, i went with all honda stuff, I figured 32k without a scottoiler is hard to beat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted August 6, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 6, 2015 5th gen stock sprockets are 17 tooth front, and 43 tooth rear. Chain is 530 and 108 links. Get the DID VMXS X-ring chain and super light steel sprockets from www.sprocketcenter.com. I like to run a 45 tooth rear and stock front, or a 16 tooth front and 43t rear. That changes the gearing about 6%, which throws the speedometer of by a total of 11 or 12%, but makes the bike much more responsive. It bumps up the rpm's by about 600 at highway speed, and will cut mpg by 2-4, so the modification may not appeal to everyone. But I sure do like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer DFerrell Posted August 6, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 6, 2015 When you have a 45 rear do you need to lengthen the chain? I have new sprockets and chain put a way for a chain job but I might like to try the 45 rear to see if I like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted August 6, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 6, 2015 I didn't, the chain they sent with that kit was 108 links. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tews19 Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 wag, how much was the entire kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted August 6, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 6, 2015 $240.00 Oh, and the DID chain type was ZVMX (not VMXS, I must have pulled that from a faulty memory bank.) The ZVMX is a very heavy duty chain. I got 32,000 miles out of the last one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BonusVFR Posted August 6, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 6, 2015 I went with OEM front, rear sprockets and chain at about 45K. I changed just the chain at about 22K. Do not go on a long tour with a suspect chain or one that seems OK but requires constant adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tews19 Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 Thanks again for all the insight. I received my sprockets and chain today. Tomorrow I will be installing. I will try to post a video when complete as this single sided swing arm has me confused in regard to how loose or tight the chain should be. The manual states a specific amount of play . I can't remember off hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted August 9, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 9, 2015 For chain adjustment tension I think the range is .75" to 1.25". As a rule of thumb it's better to be a little too lose rather than too tight. With that in mind, I usually adjust the chain to where it will easily touch the bottom of the swing arm when pushing up on the lower run. (While on the center stand.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tews19 Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 Thanks Wags! I was worried about the contact as I have a lot right now with the current chain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tews19 Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tb33aVPLN-Y Here is a video of my current chain and sprocket. I have had several people tell me the sprockets and chain is in good working condition and not to replace yet. Some advice would be greatly appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted August 9, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 9, 2015 Looks like you have some tight links in the chain. The rear sprocket doesn't look too worn, but without compairing next to a new one it can be hard to see the difference. Without seeing the front sprocket, which can't been seen with the cover on, it's impossible to tell what kind of shape it's in. I'd start by giving that chain a really good cleaning. Hopefully that will free up the sticky links and the tension will remain the same as you rotate the tire/chain. If that doesn't help, I'd replace the chain and sprockets. On an average, most chains are only good for 20,000 miles, but can live to 30,000 if well cared for. More than 30,000 is pretty exceptional. Given that your bike has 25,000 on it, I would guess that is the original set. And given the current condition, I would guess that set is ready for replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MaxSwell Posted August 9, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 9, 2015 There is a sticker regarding adjusting chain on the chain guard on my fifth gen. It's a little more general than the owners manual. 1" is spec. on the chain guard. (20 - 30 mm) , (0.8 - 1.2 in), (13/16 - 1 13/16 in.) in the owners manual and the shop manual. Other useful specs: - chain adjust pivot bolt torque: 54 lb.ft, 74 N.m, 7.5 kgf.m And a warning: Excessive chain slack, 50 mm, 2.0 in, or more may damage the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ca315 Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 I went for a DID X ring chain and sprockets from the these guys: http://www.chaingangchainsandsprockets.com.au Great products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tews19 Posted August 13, 2015 Author Share Posted August 13, 2015 I guess I am glad I bought new chain and sprockets. The front has indents from the chain. Almost as if it was trying to jump off the front sprocket???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tews19 Posted August 13, 2015 Author Share Posted August 13, 2015 Here is a video of the from sprocket in comparison to the new one. The old one is thick and has the chain indents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted August 13, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 13, 2015 That's just the rubber that the OEM has. You'll notice the shoulders on the replacement near the shaft. That ensures it is in the right location when tightened down. No worries on the new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tews19 Posted August 13, 2015 Author Share Posted August 13, 2015 Thanks Kev. I guess I need a chain rivet tool. Is there another way to get the master link on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted August 13, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 13, 2015 Thanks Kev. I guess I need a chain rivet tool. Is there another way to get the master link on?You can peen the legs/pins with a hammer and anvil, but it's not nearly as precise doing it that way. Doing it that way allows a lot of variance and the possibility to have the side/link plate end up either too loose or tight. Having a propor riviting tool removes a lot of the guess work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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