ember1205 Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 I purchased my Y2K model about a year ago from the original owner. 40k miles, a couple of very minor blemishes, and rolling on OEM sneakers. He had installed those "neon" lights (LEDs actually) which I promptly ripped out (they weren't working anyhow). Everything on the bike seems to generally be either original or replaced with an OEM part. Seems he had no interest in modifying it in any significant way (which is a big part of what drew me to it). The tires are old enough to have some cracks in the treads and worn enough to be cupped. Time to go. Since I'm pulling the rear wheel for this little endeavor, I'm wondering what sort of tips folks have on cleaning and inspecting the sprockets and chain as well as any tips to identifying whether the sprockets have been replaced and if they're OEM parts are not. If there's any tips on removal / reinstallation of the wheels, I'm interested in learning about that, too. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Africord Posted April 22, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2015 Just read about this earlier today. http://www.webbikeworld.com/r4/tirox-motorcycle-chain-cleaner/ Personally, I use Maxima chain cleaner and a "grunge" brush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted April 22, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2015 If there's any tips on removal / reinstallation of the wheels, I'm interested in learning about that, too. Rear - if your end can is OEM or low, you'll need to loosen the bolts and turn it out of the way (no need to remove it). If it's high, you can probably leave it as it (I don't have a high so not sure). Put the bike on the centrestand and in gear then get someone to press down on the rear brake pedal and loosen the 4 rear wheel nuts in a criss-cross fashion to release the pressure evenly. The remove the wheel. Replacement is the reverse process, just ensure you torque the rear wheel nuts to the correct setting (108Nm), again criss-cross fashion. Front wheel as per the manual (just about to sit down for dinner so can't go into detail now). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ember1205 Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 Just read about this earlier today. http://www.webbikeworld.com/r4/tirox-motorcycle-chain-cleaner/ Personally, I use Maxima chain cleaner and a "grunge" brush. My plan was straight kerosene with a brush and wiping it down when I'm done. Which Grunge Brush makes more sense and why? Rear - if your end can is OEM or low, you'll need to loosen the bolts and turn it out of the way (no need to remove it). If it's high, you can probably leave it as it (I don't have a high so not sure). Put the bike on the centrestand and in gear then get someone to press down on the rear brake pedal and loosen the 4 rear wheel nuts in a criss-cross fashion to release the pressure evenly. The remove the wheel. Replacement is the reverse process, just ensure you torque the rear wheel nuts to the correct setting (108Nm), again criss-cross fashion. Front wheel as per the manual (just about to sit down for dinner so can't go into detail now). Thanks. Bike is stock, so I'll be loosening the muffler it seems. Any tips for having both off at the same time? When I did this on my Goldwing, I put the bike on the center stand, pulled the rear first, then the front, and rested the front of the frame / bottom of motor on a wooden block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Conedodger Posted April 22, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2015 If the wheels will be off for a while, I like to put the axle back in the forks and lower the front on to a jack stand for added stability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted April 22, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2015 If the bike has 40k on it, you would expect the sprockets to have been changed at least once... 95% of people would not use OEM sprockets and chain. All you really need to know about new chain and sprockets is the number of teeth (OEM: 17T and 43T) and links in the 530 chain (OEM: 108). Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayarearider Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 www.Sprocketcenter.com has kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted April 23, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2015 Front wheel out = tie back end down or it will tip forwards. Alternatively, place something to support the weight beneath the forks. Both wheels out = balance it & tie it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ember1205 Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Front wheel out = tie back end down or it will tip forwards. Alternatively, place something to support the weight beneath the forks. Both wheels out = balance it & tie it. Sorry, but I don't follow the logic of the first part. If you remove the front wheel, there is less weight in front of the center stand and the bike should naturally tip to the back. Why does it need to be supported with no front wheel installed? Pulling the rear sheel first should keep it tipped forward, and then removing the front would likely tip it back toward the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted April 23, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2015 Because the removal of the front wheel isn't enough weight to keep the bike from tipping forward. It's still front heavy even with the front wheel removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ember1205 Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Gotcha. Thanks for clarifying for me. It would seem, then, that I should pull the front first while there's still -some- counterbalance weight from the rear wheel. Once the front is stabilized, I'll remove the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted April 23, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2015 You'll have to use something to hold the front end up before you take off the front wheel. Some guys use a jack, or some lumber under the headers, some guys use straps run to the ceiling joists. I use a Pitbull convertible front stand. Works very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ember1205 Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 You'll have to use something to hold the front end up before you take off the front wheel. Some guys use a jack, or some lumber under the headers, some guys use straps run to the ceiling joists. I use a Pitbull convertible front stand. Works very well. If you add one child on the very back of the seat, that will do the same thing. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted April 23, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2015 Not a bad idea, but try to find one that will sit still long enough to get the job done could be a challenge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ember1205 Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Not a bad idea, but try to find one that will sit still long enough to get the job done could be a challenge. That's where the straps come into play. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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