Lint Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Only at slow speeds. Regular riding is fine. Best I can tell, pads are ok, but I don't know how old, if that makes a difference. Can't tell if my bobbins on the rotors are bound up our free floating, as I don't have a reference. I may try and find a way to support the bike so I can pull the front wheel off. I can't quite see the pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRpwr Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Lint, before commenting; really like the picture of your bike! With the helmet it really adds something missing in my bike pics, well done. I found the same issue - light lever pressure at low speeds was hard to modulate smooth stops. For me, bleeding the front calipers lessened the 'grabbiness' to what I remember as 'like new' modulation. As a side note, the discolouration of the fluid when lifting off the reservoir cap showed that after six years it had absorbed a fair bit of moisture and was time to flush it through anyway. So it might have been the moisture and/or just air entrapment over time (O2 in the moisture?) but either way it was an excuse to track down a Mityvac and any excuse for a new tool or gizmo....... Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted September 19, 2014 Author Share Posted September 19, 2014 Thanks VFRpwr, I appreciate it. I haven't been able to work on it yet as I have tennis elbow in my left arm. Makes it tough to work on it. Then, I had to go and slice my left pinky finger. Oh well. I'd bet that it is due for a fluid change, for the clutch too. 20K miles in two years probably has taken it's toll. Hopefully this weekend I can get out and check things out. I really need to get a good inspection of my pads too. I've never done a fluid change on a bike before, so this will be a learning curve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearfreezing Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 You don't have to remove the front wheel to work on the brakes. I think the calipers are held on by two or three bolts. If you haven't replaced the pads yet, they're probably due. Definitely inspect them as wearing them down to the backing plate and having to replace the rotors is very expensive. You'll probably want to clean out the calipers well with brake cleaner, especially around the seals. Also, binding can be caused by dry caliper slides, especially if the brakes have never been serviced. The slides should be lubricated with silicone brake lubricant. Changing the clutch fluid is easy, but takes patience so you don't get fluid everywhere. The brake fluid is a bit more challenging, but manageable. I didn't find the Mitvac vacuum helpful at all, really all you need is a tube that fits over the caliper bleed screw and a waste container. There's a good write-up on here somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Lorne Posted September 20, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 20, 2014 It is easier to notice issues like this more at low speeds. Another possible culprit is a dirty front brake lever. Old grease can become gummy and cleaning and re-lubricating it is a cheap fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted September 21, 2014 Author Share Posted September 21, 2014 Ok, front right rotor came off easily enough, the pic below are the pads My dilemma now is how do I remove the left side brake rotor? I even looked in the service manual and that makes as much sense as smelling the color 4. It says to remove the pad pin and brake pads, but how the shell do I get them out and back in if I can't remove the rotor? Also, looks like the caliper pistons need cleaned. Disassemble or just carefully spray with brake cleaner? If so, I'll look for a lot of cardboard to protect wheels, tires etc. ETA, found a youtube video, super simple. Do my pads need replaced?I've never replaced pads on a bike. Cars? hells yeah, lotsa times. Advise me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 I was going to say stop washing your bike, its too clean, you have plenty of pad, the only part of the piston you see will get dirty, when you ride it, there's nothing in that pic that's shows an issue. The pin by your little finger is the one to remove, to remove the pads. I normally break it loose while mounted, otherwise it would be a bitch to break loose hanging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearfreezing Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 I believe spec on the front pads is min 2.0mm, those seem like they're getting there but are ok for now. You can consider OEM (about $120 for both front sets/rear) or the popular EBC HH (about $100 for both front sets/rear). You don't have to remove the rotor to reinstall the caliper. Just push back the pad to force the pistons back into the caliper (might want to clean the pistons with brake cleaner first--no need to disassemble), then the caliper/pads will slip onto the rotor the same way you removed it. You will probably want to separate the two halves of the caliper to lubricate the slider pin. It is easier to notice issues like this more at low speeds. Another possible culprit is a dirty front brake lever. Old grease can become gummy and cleaning and re-lubricating it is a cheap fix. Great point, also should lubricate the tip of the brake lever that pushes on the master cylinder piston. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 The min spec is 1mm, but you see that little open notch in the top pad on the far right? that's a wear indicator, those pads have about 80% life left Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted September 21, 2014 Author Share Posted September 21, 2014 Thanks for all the advice all. Damn man, these are eternal brake pads. I'm surprised they're lasting this long. I'm super happy, just surprised. I bought the bike with 6600 miles on it two years ago and now it's over 26K, unless someone changed the pads at a tire change I'm not aware of, these are some long lasting pads and if so, I don't remember paying for it. I trailbrake into curves and oft times stop hard, so I am very grateful these are lasting. Super happy. I guess I'll pull off the rear tire and check the back brake since I'm in the mood.I'll look into getting the calipers lubed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 The right front pad set is the slowest burning, the left side and rear wear twice the speed cause they work together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.