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Thermostat Bleeder Bolt Stuck


Guest Acemon

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Guest Acemon

I'm trying to bleed the last bubbles in the cooling system, which most likely are in the thermostat housing, but the bleeder bolt is beyond stuck - it seems to be fused somehow. I've got a 10mm wrench, and pulling as hard as I can - while holding the housing so it doesn't break off the frame - but the damn thing won't budge. I'm soaking it with WD-40 but it doesn't make a difference.

I don't see any evidence of glue or corrosion. If I was trying to tighten a bolt as hard as I'm trying to loosen this one, I'd be very afraid of stripping the threads or breaking the head off.

I don't want to buy another housing. Anyone have any suggestions?

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I'd leave it alone.

Fill the system and run the engine with the bike on the side stand.

Get to the operating temperature, blip the throttle lightly a few times and then shut it down and refill.

Don't create problems for yourself. Trust me when I say that :wacko:

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Rice, I like your take on things. I'll try your method first, and if it doesn't solve the problem I'll try Switchblade'ss. If I break the housing, there are some damn cheap replacements on eBay. Are the housings the same for '84 thru '86?

The problem here is the temp gauge, which isn't working. Since I just changed the coolant, I suspect a bubble in the thermostat housing is the culprit.

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With cap off rad, lay the bike way over on left side and you'll hear the bloops, motor should not be running to do this. That's all I ever do on a rad drain and refill. You got air in the left rad

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With cap off rad, lay the bike way over on left side and you'll hear the bloops, motor should not be running to do this. That's all I ever do on a rad drain and refill. You got air in the left rad

86 NO left rad .

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Radiator filler is on the left side. If I lean the bike in that direction (with the aid of a strong friend) the coolant is likely going to pour out.

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With cap off rad, lay the bike way over on left side and you'll hear the bloops, motor should not be running to do this. That's all I ever do on a rad drain and refill. You got air in the left rad

86 NO left rad .

Doesn't matter it works on any bike, with rad opening on the right.

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Could I use the sensor itself to bleed the air? Disconnect the two wires, then slowly unscrew it until air/coolant starts to flow out? It's located exactly where any bubble might be, but maybe I'm missing something

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With cap off rad, lay the bike way over on left side and you'll hear the bloops, motor should not be running to do this. That's all I ever do on a rad drain and refill. You got air in the left rad

86 NO left rad .

Doesn't matter it works on any bike, with rad opening on the right.

Yep just don't look for it on the left .

Could I use the sensor itself to bleed the air? Disconnect the two wires, then slowly unscrew it until air/coolant starts to flow out? It's located exactly where any bubble might be, but maybe I'm missing something

Good idea , I think so ..

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If you do lossen off the sensor to bleed the air, could be useful to have someone refilling the radiator at the same time so no new air gets into the system.

Ignore Spud's advice this time around... he's thinking of the 800's.

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I took off the faring and removed the radiator cap, then started the engine and watched for a little while. Without the temp gauge working, I don't know if I got the engine up to operating temperature. When the thermostat opens, should I be able to see any type of movement/flow from the open filler neck?

Considering the bike is 28 years old and was stored for the last twelve and has 29k on the clock, it might be time for a new thermostat anyway. Are there any good substitutes for the pricy Honda one?

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