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Help With 2003 VFR800


Guest dnye
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Hello, just picked up a new to me 2003 Honda VFR800 and want to make a few chenges. I'm new to the street, but have been riding dirt for years so I have experience...just not much on the pavement.

I'm 6' 2" and feel like I want to lower my pegs, raise my bars and find a better seat and that is probably all I will do for now. So iI thought I would give a shout out to the community and see if anyone has already done these mods...and can I set on your bike? I have been looking at Heli Bars, Convertibars and Spiegler, anyone have any experience with these?

For peg lowering I have been looking at Peg Blocks here. Peg Lowering Blocks - Bargain Finder - VFR Discussion

The Sargent seat looks like the best option but like to set on one and I'm open to options as well.

Question, what happens a 7,000 rpm that makes this bike really move? At lows rpms it is fairly docile but when it hits 7k, wow!

Thanks in advance for any help.

Danpost-25747-0-51656400-1345503608.jpg

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Question, what happens a 7,000 rpm that makes this bike really move? At lows rpms it is fairly docile but when it hits 7k, wow!

The engine switches to VTEC mode. Basically under 7,000 rpm it's only using two valves per cylinder (1 intake, 1 exhaust) and above that it opens up all four.

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Heli bars seem to be a common option. A few have lowered the pegs. Another option would be to raise the seat height with a custom seat or seat pad like Air Hawk. Any of these will work.

A common problem for those not used to this style of bike is to support your upper body with your arms locked at the elbows. Arms should be relaxed, bent at elbows. If hands go numb or soar wrists or shoulders it could be your riding position needs to be changed rather than the bike.

Yeah VTEC baby :wheel:

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I will trade you my peg lowering blocks for the Blackbird in the picture (because I know where to get new ones). :)

I go on record as the single best mod I ever did to my VFR is installing Busy Little Shop's peg lowering blocks. Makes the VFR all day comfy with my hateful knees. I compensated for the lost ground clearance by raising the rear and installing allen head bolts in place of the feelers.

I had a 97 BB with a full erion kit. Most impressive motorcycle I have ever owned. I could touch a peg at 170 with zero drama. The bike defines high speed stability and it truly warps your sense of fast.

KEB

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I'm 6' 1" with a really long inseam, and find the fit nearly perfect. I'll concede on the replacement seat, but I think I'd also give it a thousand miles before I started changing the egos. As Bad Boy said, you may just need some time to adjust to a more sporting position.

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It is amazing what a few small tweaks mean in the context improving ergos. I have the GenMar risers, Buell Ulysses pegs, and a Rick Mayer seat. My endurance went from about 300 miles in a day to 500 miles. As always, YMMV.

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Thanks everyone for the responses! I have about 200 miles on the bike and probably should give it a few more to perfect my riding technique.

Bad Boy, I don't really remember how I was sitting the bike but I will give your suggestion a try, thanks.

Dan

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+ 1 on footpeg lowering blocks from Busy Little Shop, He is a VFRD member. Best mod I ever made. I am 6'4". Why didn't I do this earlier? I left the bars alone - they seem fine to me. Seat is OEM. Try some, whatever you like, your choice.

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Also, get the mirror extenders from Larry the Lobster (I believe), another VFRD member. These will reduce the amount of 'elbow' you look at in the mirrors. Excellent craftmanship and they work beautifully.

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6'2" here with silver 2003. have BLS blocks, heli bars and sargent seat. ALL are excellent choices and make the bike very comfortable for me. a smaller individual got on and said "wow...sort of like a couch" :)

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Thanks for all the replies. I have ordered the peg lowering blocks and will probably order the Heli's today, anyone know where the best price is?

Dan

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Thanks for all the replies. I have ordered the peg lowering blocks and will probably order the Heli's today, anyone know where the best price is?

Dan

sorry, mine were on bike when i got it.

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Guest JonnyboySC4557

Guys, sorry to hijack this thread but I'm going the other way and ordered a Lust Racing lowering kit which should lower the rear by 30mm. As I don't want to affect the geometry of the bike I wondered if anyone could tell me how much to lower the front through the triple trees as well?? I've read varying opinions on this from don't do it and leave them alone to 8mm, 12mm etc etc. Any help would be much appreciated.

Yours

Confused.com

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Most people drop the front end 10 mm over stock setting for sharper handling, thats about the most you can do anyway, so you should already be there (non lowered).

But measure from the top of the tripple clamp to the top of the fork cap, around 47 mm in height is about the lowest you can go. any lower and the fork dust seal will smash into the bottom tripple clamp on a FULL bottom.

Lowering a bike, is the same as castrating a BULL. It will never be right again

Edited by spud786
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I don't think you can lower the front enough to compensate for a 30mm drop in the rear. The tradeoff for being able to "flat foot" at stop lights will be slowed steering response and potential ground clearence problems. As long as your not wanting to push the sport riding potential though should be no problem.

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Thanks for all the replies. I have ordered the peg lowering blocks and will probably order the Heli's today, anyone know where the best price is?

Dan

Last winter Heli's went on discount on ebay for I believe $235 - the cheapest I've seen them. Can't tell you if that's an annual thing over the winter or not.

I had no idea how much I needed the lowering blocks until I installed them. On those, you may find some mods are needed to keep the side stand from hitting the peg and adjusting the rear brake lever to taste. For the stand, you can drill and tap a small hole at the pivot point of the stand to install a small bolt so it will clear - just grind or file the head of the bolt until you get it where you want. On the brake lever, I detached the set from the frame, removed the "C" shaped pivot from the master cylinder pushrod and used a Dremel to cut off about 1 1/2 threads from the end of the pushrod. That gave me enough adjustability to get it where I wanted it but can still put it back in the stock position if the blocks are removed. You'll also need to rig up something for the brake light switch - adjusting the pedal down too far will result in the brake light being on constantly. Just rig up a small extension for the spring that pulls on the switch and you'll be good.

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Guest JonnyboySC4557

I don't think you can lower the front enough to compensate for a 30mm drop in the rear. The tradeoff for being able to "flat foot" at stop lights will be slowed steering response and potential ground clearence problems. As long as your not wanting to push the sport riding potential though should be no problem.

Many thanks for the responses guys. I took it for a spirited ride on Sunday and did grind the hero blobs a couple of times. To be honest the handling didn't seem to be affected too much, in fact if anything it felt a little better. I know that probably sounds weird but it might be a psycological thing??

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